Cooler temperatures call for hearty, full-bodied wines

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 04/10/2024 (691 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

We’ve been getting decent daytime temps and plenty of sun as of late. But Manitoba’s cooler nights — and the pile of tomatoes and squash on my kitchen counter, frantically picked from the backyard garden on Thursday before frost hit — are a sure sign fall is here for real.

I’m among those who sip seasonally — with cooler months come hearty brown ales, marzens and stouts for beers, while on the wine side of things I tend to turn to heartier reds and whites with more body.

While many European examples of bigger-bodied wines deliver rustic, earthier notes with big, grippy tannins to help beat the chill of fall, there’s something to be said for drinking the deep and fruit-forward reds and whites made in so-called “New World” wine producing regions at this time of the year. Here are a half-dozen examples recently tasted and enjoyed that fall into that latter category.

The Wolf Blass 2022 Chardonnay (South Australia — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is a stalwart Aussie white; it’s pale gold in colour, offering ripe peach, tropical fruit and red apple notes, as well as a hint of spice from oak aging. On the medium-bodied, fruit-driven palate, it delivers ripe red apple, peach, tropical fruit and lemon flavours that come with a hint of vanilla, modest acidity and a medium length finish. It’s a pretty textbook and consistent Australian Chardonnay for the price. 3.5/5

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Richer yet is the True Myth 2020 Chardonnay (Edna Valley, Calif. — around $32, private wine stores), which is medium gold in colour and offers ripe pineapple, mango and red apple notes, as well as butterscotch and spice aromas.

It’s dry, medium-plus-bodied and viscous, with ripe red apple, peach and tropical fruit flavours and a light lemony note that comes with modest acidity. On the back end come appealing vanilla and spice from oak aging; the complete package is elegant, and the long, warm finish (it’s 14.5 per cent alcohol) is just right. Available at Kenaston Wine Market, Calabria Market, the Pourium, De Nardi Wines and the Winehouse. 4.5/5 

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On the red wine side of things, the Gnarly Head 2021 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi, Calif. — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is a solid example of what this red wine grape can offer in terms of bold, assertive fruit flavours. It’s inky purple in colour, with ripe blackberry, raisin, plum and baking spice aromas, and just a hint of vanilla. While it’s fermented dry, there’s plenty of ripeness to the dark berry flavours, bolstered by dried fruit/raisiny notes, baking spices and vanilla notes and hints of ripe plum. The tannins are light, while the alcohol, at 14.5 per cent, is slightly warm but not overpowering. 3.5/5

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Eschewing the overly sweet flavour profile of many California red blends, the Wente Vineyards 2021 Mount Diablo Highlands Red Blend (Central Coast, Calif. — $20.49, Liquor Marts and beyond)

combines six different grape varieites (led by Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot), bringing cocoa, leather and spice notes on the nose alongside rich blackberry, plum, cassis and violet. It’s medium-plus-bodied and mainly dry, delivering ripe, rich red and dark berry flavours along with chocolate and spice notes lingering in the background. Tannins are mild, while there’s some warmth to the 13.5 per cent alcohol on the finish. On sale until the end of October (it’s regularly $22.99). 4/5

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From Down Under comes the Majella 2022 The Musician Cabernet/Shiraz (Coonawarra, Australia — $25.99, Jones & Co.), deep ruby in colour and offering beautiful violet, eucalyptus, herbal, cassis, plum and blackberry aromas. It’s medium-plus-bodied and elegant, with brambly blackberry, cassis, cherry, anise, eucalyptus and herbal flavours wrapped in light tannins. The acidity here is also modest before the medium-length finish. Available at Jones & Co. or, if you’d like to try a glass before you buy, it’s also on the list of wines by the glass available at The Common at The Forks Market (shameless plug — I currently curate said list.) 4.5/5

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Bigger and bolder still is the Emiliana 2020 Coyam (Colchagua Valley, Chile — $31.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) an organic Chilean red blend with a foundation of Syrah and Carmenère.

Aromatically it offers an intriguing and wide-ranging array of aromas, namely black cherry, plum, iron, chocolate, white pepper, blackberry and vanilla notes. It’s dry, bold and full-bodied, with dense cherry, cassis, plum and blackberry flavours, bolstered by vanilla and spice from 13 months in oak barrels, medium tannins and acidity and a long, warm finish (it’s 14 per cent alcohol). This well-structured and intense red can be enjoyed now or easily set aside for 2 to 3 years, provided you have the patience to wait. 4.5/5 

uncorked@mts.net

@bensigurdson