Chiuri makes Fendi creative debut with fur-forward looks and star-filled front row

MILAN (AP) — Uma Thurman’s casual front-row look for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut as Fendi creative director during Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday provided a sneak peek of a cold-weather collection that veered from solid daywear to sensuous evening looks, anchored by fur-forward outerwear.

The front row was star-packed, including Thurman in a classic white blouse under a dark blazer and Jessica Alba in a double-breasted pantsuit. Both echoed looks on the runway.

Dakota Fanning and Monica Bellucci also were present, along with a host of K-pop stars, including Fendi ambassador Bang Chan. Hundreds of K-pop fans waited outside with homemade signs and drawings of their favorite singers, across the street from a dozen anti-fur protesters.

Fendi was born a century ago in Rome as a furrier and leather goods maker, and heritage fur looks were strong on the runway, from bombers to patchwork coats. Wispy fur collars complemented silken dresses and sheer, beaded eveningwear; fur-lined hoods adorned parkas, while plush collars topped trench coats.

Dark blazers and overcoats defined the opening looks, layered over trousers, casual dresses and sheer lace. Lace was reinterpreted on laser-cut leather dresses, anchored by starched white collars and dainty bangles.

Boho florals made a quick appearance, along with a sheer Art Deco–style dress. A smattering of denim and animal prints punctuated the mostly black and navy palette.

Chiuri’s was one of the most highly anticipated debuts during this Milan Fashion Week of mostly womenswear collections. She started her career at Fendi as a handbag designer and later was co-creative director of Valentino and creative director of Dior.

The creative director shuffle reshaping European fashion has been male-dominated, with Chiuri among a handful of women taking top jobs at major houses. They include Louise Trotter, who will show her second collection at Bottega Veneta, and Meryll Rogge, who will make her debut at Marni this week.

Silvia Venturini Fendi, who stepped aside as creative director of the fashion house last fall, took a front-row seat for Wednesday’s collection.

“It’s very moving,” said Venturini Fendi, who until this season has been busy backstage during shows. “It’s the first time I have watched a Fendi runway show.”