From black boots to pastel suits, Italian premier’s wardrobe evolves with her politics

ROME (AP) — As Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni’s politics have evolved — from combative outsider to pragmatic establishment leader — so, too, has her fashion sensibility.

When Meloni became Italy’s leader in October 2022, she arrived at the premier’s office wearing a dark suit and clunky black boots, sartorial signifiers of her emergence from the fringes of the country’s right-wing politics.

Now, as someone who governs less radically than feared and is on the cusp of becoming Italy’s longest-serving postwar leader, Meloni often wears pastel-colored suits with wide-legged trousers that cover her high heels. The effect, say experts in fashion and politics, is a softer look that conveys authority without confrontation.

“She understands how important clothing is in nonverbal communication in politics,” said Antonio Mancinelli, a fashion critic and sociologist who teaches at the Costume and Fashion Academy, in both Milan and Rome.

Heading into the final year of her mandate as premier, Meloni faces a growing challenge from a right-wing politician. No matter what she’s wearing, the rivalry will highlight how she has become more moderate on some issues.

Meloni is hardly the only world leader to project political identity through wardrobe choices.

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy has dressed in military-style clothing since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022. The U.K.’s new premier, Andy Burnham, dons jeans and T-shirts as he promotes a policy of bringing the government closer to the working class. And Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum wears dresses and blouses embroidered by Indigenous artisans to honor their textile traditions.

But what the first woman to lead Italy wears carries perhaps even greater weight.

“When it comes to a woman who represents a country that is famous for fashion, and it is also one of the pillars of the economy, the issue becomes much more serious,″ said Italian-Haitian fashion designer Stella Jean.

From activist to prime minister

When Meloni came into office as the leader of a political party with post-fascist roots, she had been expected to be antagonistic toward Europe and extreme in her views on foreign policy.

But she has largely defied those expectations. While pursuing conservative, anti-migrant policies domestically, Meloni adopted a pragmatic approach toward the European Union and became one of Ukraine’s strongest supporters in its war against Russia. She has also shown a willingness to stand up to criticism from President Donald Trump, prompting European allies to rally around her.

“When she was a party leader of a small right-wing party, she had a small electorate that she had to relate to,” said political analyst Riccardo Alcaro of Italy’s Institute for International Affairs. “Now she is the leader of a major EU country and has to provide an image of herself as a credible leader of a government who has ideas worth debating.”

That change is reflected in her daily attire.

Soon after taking office, Meloni began to wear tailored suits and more muted colors, a look fashion critics described as elegant and one that conveyed seriousness — and approachability — as she appeared more frequently on the global stage. She even lightened her hair.

“Lighter colors suggest a loyalty, tenderness and gentleness. With light colors, you’re more welcoming,” said Michela Bonafoni, who teaches fashion at Unicollege in Florence.

Meloni’s office declined to comment about her wardrobe and who advises her on fashion.

Reeling in Italy’s conservative center

Meloni’s current fashion choices — and political rhetoric — contrast starkly with those of her younger self.

In 1996, when Meloni was 19, a French television station followed the young activist — decked out almost entirely in black — as she organized members of a right-wing youth movement. During the interview, she defended Italian dictator Benito Mussolini, comments that have shadowed her political career.

Since then, she has sought to distance herself from the extremism that haunts Italy’s past.

In 2008, Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi tapped Meloni to be his youth minister. Meloni began appearing in more serious apparel in this new role, mostly dark suits with white shirts.

By the time she won Italy’s 2022 election, Meloni had already begun broadening her appeal. During the campaign she made a speech in which she passionately described herself as “a woman, a mother, a Christian,” words that later became the basis of a viral remix, and helped her to gain support among conservative centrists.

As premier, she has rarely been seen in public wearing all-black suits and boots. While black is widely worn to look stylish, and by mourners, in Italy it also has long been associated with fascism.

These days, Meloni almost always wears trousers, avoids bold patterns and favors pastels and other neutral colors. Even her high heels are typically hidden beneath wide-cut pants.

“She cannot clash visually with the image she wants to project,” said Alcaro, who noted that her Brothers of Italy party has grown from 4% of the vote in 2018 to close to 26% in 2022.

A necktie draws notice from Germany’s chancellor

Close observers say a key moment in Meloni’s visual transformation was in 2024 during the G7 summit in Puglia. After a strong showing by her party in European Parliament elections, she welcomed world leaders to Italy wearing a flowing pastel pink tailored suit and palazzo pants.

By then, she had become one of the most politically secure leaders in Europe and was increasingly comfortable on the international stage.

Her growing confidence was on display again at this year’s G7 summit in Evian-les-Bains, France, where she appeared in a beige suit paired with a matching necktie, drawing notice from German Chancellor Friedrich Merz.

Open microphones captured Merz telling her: “You’re wearing a tie today.”

“Yeah,” Meloni replied, “so you can consider me a fighter.”