Prost! Raise a glass to Oktoberfest

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As September comes to a close, a pair of local breweries are bringing some serious gemütlichkeit.

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Opinion

As September comes to a close, a pair of local breweries are bringing some serious gemütlichkeit.

For the uninitiated, gemütlichkeit’s a word that doesn’t translate neatly from German to English, but which roughly means friendliness and good cheer.

Both Devil May Care Brewing Co. (155 Fort St.) and Kilter Brewing Co. (450 Rue Deschambault) are hosting Oktoberfest parties this weekend featuring food, music, games and, of course, plenty of beer.

Both breweries are rolling out special releases to coincide with their respective Oktoberfests — expect malty festbiers, marzens, rauchbiers and other German-inspired brews, served up in hefty steins alongside Bavarian-inspired fare. Devil May Care’s festivities run through to Sunday and feature eats by Freebird Kitchen, while Kilter keeps the party going through to Saturday, Oct. 3, and is offering pretzels and Oktoberfest-themed hot dogs. Lederhosen is encouraged.

The original Oktoberfest dates back to early 19th-century Bavaria, the southeastern German state, and specifically Munich, where the world’s largest Oktoberfest takes place to this day (and runs through to Oct. 4 this year).

But Oktoberfest has long transcended borders, with parties happening around the world including massive events in Cincinnati, Denver, Kitchener-Waterloo, Ont. and even Brazil.

With that in mind, here are some German and German-inspired sips — beer and otherwise — to bring that sense of gemütlichkeit to your glass. And if you’re not swirling and sipping at the Winnipeg Wine Festival this year, consider checking out one of the local Oktoberfests. Prost!

Paulaner Weissbier (Munich, Germany — $3.99/500ml cans, Liquor Marts and beer vendors)

Pale copper and hazy, this German wheat beer even shows some folks in traditional Oktoberfest garb on the can. Aromatically it brings clove, bread dough, ripe stone fruit and banana candy; on the light-plus-bodied, slightly off-dry palate it’s much of the same, with subtle bitterness and a somewhat peppery finish (it’s 5.5 per cent alcohol). 3.5/5

Devil May Care Brewing Co. Servus! Festbier (Winnipeg — $4.39/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors)

Medium gold in appearance and clear, this Oktoberfest-inspired brew offers flaked oat, bright malt and a hint of apple; on the dry, medium-bodied palate it’s fresh and malty, with subtle apple and pear notes coming under the grainier core. The six per cent alcohol is a bit sneaky — very nice stuff. 3.5/5

Kilter Brewing Co. Märzen (Winnipeg — $4.50/473ml cans, brewery, select beer vendors)

A collaboration with Toronto’s Godspeed Brewery, this German-style amber lager is medium copper in colour and clear, with loads of bready malt, oat and subtle brown sugar aromas. It’s crisp, light-plus-bodied and comes with just a hint of sweetness (but not too sweet), accentuating the malt and caramel flavours and adding a raisined note before the medium-length finish (it’s 5.5 per cent alcohol). 4/5

Max Mann 2024 Riesling (Rheinhessen, Germany — $17.99, Calabria Market)

Pale gold in appearance, the ripe apple and peach aromas come with a hint of beach ball (a good thing in Riesling) as well as lemon candy and a modest chalky note. It’s a light-bodied, off-dry white brimming with red apple and peach flavours and coming with lemon candy and herbal notes, medium acidity and a modest 11 per cent alcohol. A nice value — available at Calabria Market. 3.5/5

S.A. Prüm 2020 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel, Germany — $44.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

From a grand cru vineyard planted along the Mosel River by a family who have been in the region for centuries comes this Riesling, medium straw in appearance and with beautiful floral, red apple, pear, petrol, lemon zest and stony aromas. It’s light-plus bodied and medium-sweet (it’s nine per cent alcohol), bringing intense red apple, lemon, pear, peach and flinty notes, with vibrant acidity and a long, complex finish. The combination of sweetness and acidity means this wine’s drinking beautifully now, but it will evolve for at least 10-15 years — it’s an absolute stunner. 5/5

ben.sigurdson@winnipegfreepress.com

Ben Sigurdson

Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer

Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press‘s literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.

In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press’s editing team before being posted online or published in print. It’s part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.

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