Goalposts to define normal vintage keep moving

The 2026 grape-growing vintage in the northern hemisphere is done and dusted, with producers in most wine-producing countries having to navigate a growing season that was, to put it mildly, volatile.

European producers in particular struggled with a growing season plagued by a lengthy heat wave, wildfires and hail.

Some producers in Bordeaux, for example, started picking wine grapes for both white and red grapes in August, weeks ahead of when the fruit would normally be brought in from the vineyards. Drought-like conditions resulted in the region’s viticultural regulatory body giving permission to wineries in some sub-regions to irrigate, which they’re not normally allowed to do, and a mid-July hail storm wreaked havoc on grapes.

The region was also devastated by wildfires over the summer, which saw thousands flee the region but which mostly spared vineyards, although the effect of smoke may find its way into some wines.

Overall the Bordeaux vintage was the warmest since 1893.

In Beaujolais it was a similar story — those grapes that managed to survive the heat, drought and a barrage of hail in July were picked in mid-August — a week earlier than 2025 and nearly a month earlier than 2024. It’s much the same in Burgundy, Champagne, Portugal’s Douro Valley and much of Germany — extreme weather events, red-hot temperatures and the earliest picking dates on record.

And while the overall quantity of grapes picked in most European wine-producing countries is down, reports indicate the fruit that did end up getting picked is of very good to exceptional quality.

On this side of the pond, things were a little closer to normal. Unfortunately, normal in the Okanagan Valley these days includes wildfires; in August, the Bald Range wildfire ripped through Summerland, causing widespread damage and potentially resulting in some wines made from grapes grown in that area picking up smoky notes.

Elsewhere in British Columbia, things looked more positive — a good sign, particularly after two winters in the early 2020s where temperatures plummeted, vines froze and producers were forced to either skip vintages or source grapes from elsewhere.

In Ontario, things seem to have progressed relatively normally — the harvest in Niagara was slightly earlier than normal and the quality of the fruit is reported to be very good. Most importantly, the smoke from wildfires in northwestern Ontario doesn’t seem to have impacted grapes in Niagara (although the region was blanketed by wildfire smoke for a couple of days when I was there in July).

Once the 2026 wines start landing on our shelves, we’ll be able to gauge with our palates how the wines ended up turning out. One thing’s for certain — grape-growers are increasingly having to move the goalposts when it comes to what defines a “normal” vintage.

ben.sigurdson@winnipegfreepress.com

 

Wines of the week

Otu Wines 2025 Pinot Gris (Marlborough, New Zealand — $18.89, Liquor Marts and beyond)

From the Marlborough sub-region of the Awatere Valley comes this Pinot Gris, pale straw in appearance and offering fresh pear, peach, red apple, candied pineapple and floral notes on the nose. It’s light-plus-bodied and dry, with ripe tree fruit (peach, pear and apple) making a big splash alongside a hint of spice and a touch of that candied pineapple note. No oak to speak of here — drink this fun fruit salad of a white now, especially while it’s on sale (regular $20.99). 4/5

Le Grand Noir 2024 Pinot Noir (France — $17.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Pale ruby in appearance, this bestselling southern French Pinot Noir offers lovely ripe cherry, plum and blueberry aromas, with subtle earthy and violet notes as well. It’s light-plus-bodied and dry but quite juicy, delivering lush cherry, blueberry and plum flavours with soft tannins, light acidity and, at 13 per cent alcohol, a touch of warmth on the finish. A fruit-forward crowd pleaser and a solid value, particularly while it’s on sale (regular $19.99). 3.5/5

La Colombette 2024 Cuvée Océan d’Azur red (France — 21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

An organic blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from southern France, there’s a lovely core of ripe raspberry, cherry, plum and bubble gum on the nose of this fruit-driven red. It’s dry, light-plus-bodied and juicy, with loads of red berry and cherry flavours coming with a splash of acidity, virtually no tannins and a modest 12.5 per cent alcohol on the finish. The bubble gum-ish note is reminiscent of red Beaujolais — chill for 20 minutes and enjoy. 4/5

Mojo 2024 Shiraz (McLaren Vale, Australia — $23-28, private wine stores)

Inky purple in appearance, this Aussie Shiraz brings black cherry, iron, earthy, plum and herbal notes aromatically. It’s full-bodied and dry, with white pepper and dark chocolate notes coming with black cherry, raspberry and baking spice flavours. Acidity is modest, tannins aren’t overpowering and there’s some decent length on the finish (it’s 14.5 per cent alcohol); it’s drinking well now, but could be set aside for two to four years. Available at The Pourium and De Nardi Wines. 4/5