Say yes to the dress code Go from crushed by wedding-invitation fashion rules to crushing it with this helpful guide

What to wear when the wedding invitation reads “semi-formal”? Is “dressy casual” more dressy or more casual? At a loss as to the difference between “black tie” and “black-tie optional”? And does “white tie” mean you have to turn up in an actual, honest-to-goodness white tie?

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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 28/10/2023 (1053 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

What to wear when the wedding invitation reads “semi-formal”? Is “dressy casual” more dressy or more casual? At a loss as to the difference between “black tie” and “black-tie optional”? And does “white tie” mean you have to turn up in an actual, honest-to-goodness white tie?

MEET THE EXPERT:

Jackie Silla

Fashion and wardrobe stylist

Insta: @stylemydreams

Silla has more than ten years experience working in fashion. The wardrobe stylist can often be found on sets working in the costume department.

Jackie Silla

Fashion and wardrobe stylist

Insta: @stylemydreams

Silla has more than ten years experience working in fashion. The wardrobe stylist can often be found on sets working in the costume department. In between movies Silla takes on personal styling jobs for clients. She does everything from updating closets to revamping wardrobes. Her books are currently open for new clients.

Jackie’s top 5 places to shop in Winnipeg

Margot + Maude, 580 Academy Rd.

Valencia Boutique, 10-725 Corydon Ave.

Rooster Shoes, 105 Osborne St.

Style Bar, 470 River Ave.

Loka Boutique 100-443 Academy Rd.

Navigating the pitfalls of wedding-invitation dress codes can be more stressful than deciding what amount to put in the presentation envelope. Winnipeg stylist Jackie Silla breaks down the most common ones so you will never be knowingly underdressed at your next event, be it formal, semi-formal or casual.

“Dress codes are a way for the bride and groom to have a certain esthetic at their wedding. Some people may want an all-white wedding, so that when they see the pictures of the guests, there is a nice flow to the images,” Silla says.

“As a guest, it is our duty to abide by what they want. Personally, I would rather be told whether it’s going to be a formal event or a casual one, as I don’t want to stand out.

“Instead of viewing dress codes as a nuisance, look at it as a way to be prepared for the occasion.”

 

Evan Agostini/Invision
As Benedict Cumberbatch shows, a white-tie invitation will allow a black tuxedo but it must have tails.

Evan Agostini/Invision

As Benedict Cumberbatch shows, a white-tie invitation will allow a black tuxedo but it must have tails.

WHITE TIE

What it means: Of all the dress codes, this is your most rigid, typically reserved for extremely formal weddings and elegant events, such as state dinners or even royal dinners. Accessories should be kept understated; men can wear white gloves and women can wear elbow gloves, if they choose to.

Ladies, wear this: Super-formal floor-length evening gown, no exceptions. It could be A-line or a sleek silhouette but it has to hit the ground; no ankle should be visible. Your jewelry, shoes and bag should be simple and very elegant. Colours should veer towards the darker end on the spectrum and while jewel tones are acceptable, always choose a deeper hue. When in doubt, go dark.

Men, wear this: White tuxedo tailcoat with white vest and cummerbund, gloves and white trousers to go along with it. You could also opt for a black tuxedo, but it must have tails.

 

(Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP, file)
                                Lupita Nyong’o in black tie attire for women.

(Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP, file)

Lupita Nyong’o in black tie attire for women.

BLACK TIE

What it means: This is a very formal dress code. Most black-tie weddings tend to be later in the day so you will still want to choose darker colours, whether that’s a gown or a suit.

Ladies, wear this: A sophisticated below-the-knee dress. You can also wear floor-length gowns, or midis, which hit above the ankle. If dresses are not your thing, opt for a sharp tailored suit, paired with an Oxford or a loafer for a shoe; you still want a little bit of height.

Men, wear this: A tuxedo, but you don’t have to wear tails. You can also opt for a well-tailored dark suit, but it will have to be dressier than something you wear to the office.

 

(AP Photo/Francois Mori)
                                Ryan Gosling displays formal attire.

(AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Ryan Gosling displays formal attire.

FORMAL or BLACK TIE OPTIONAL

What it means: This dress code gives guests the option to really dress up or just keep things elevated with clean lines and unfussy prints. You have more flexibility with the material of your outfit. You will still need to keep colours neutral. If you are going to do a pattern it needs to be subtle — the kind of print which can only be noticed up close.

Ladies, wear this: A tailored jumpsuit, a smart pantsuit or a knee-length cocktail dress. The outfit needs to look sophisticated, so keep colours towards the darker end of the palette.

Men, wear this: Instead of a tuxedo you can wear a dark suit with a lighter coloured shirt and a tie. You can add a print in your pocket square or a bit of colour in your sock. Just don’t go crazy; you are abiding by the black tie but are a little more relaxed with it.

 

(Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)
                                Chris Hemsworth in an example of cocktail attire for men.

(Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Chris Hemsworth in an example of cocktail attire for men.

COCKTAIL

What it means: This tends to be the most popular wedding dress code. It’s a great balance between elegant and comfortable, fancy and pared back. There is more flexibility for hemlines and you can really play with your accessories, but just make sure to tone them down if your dress is embellished; you don’t want to be too “out there” and outshine the bride.

Ladies, wear this: You will most likely already own a dress or jumpsuit that works with this forgiving dress code. If it’s a dress you choose, tea-length (two to three inches above the ankle) is best, in a material like silk, satin or chiffon. The dress can have embellishments on it.

Men, wear this: Suit in a relaxed material. As long as there is no colour code to abide by, you can throw some colour in there too.

 

Photo by Lionel Hahn/ABACAPRESS.COM
                                Dakota Johnson shows off dressy casual.

Photo by Lionel Hahn/ABACAPRESS.COM

Dakota Johnson shows off dressy casual.

SEMI-FORMAL or DRESSY CASUAL

What it means: You can have a bit more flexibility when it comes to comfort in this area — just steer clear of jeans (even black denim is not acceptable) and miniskirts. In fact, never wear a mini to a wedding, no matter the dress code.

Ladies, wear this: An elegant jumpsuit or an LBD (little black dress) will be suitable for this dress code, or a skirt or trousers with a nice top or blouse and a jacket thrown over to pull it all together.

Men, wear this: A dress shirt with black chinos. Here is where you can mix it up with patterns. You still need to have a really nice pair of trousers, but it doesn’t have to be a suit that matches. You can throw a sports jacket on with a short-sleeve button down or a casual trouser.

 

(Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)
                                Bridget Everett in a beach sundress.

(Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Bridget Everett in a beach sundress.

BEACH or TROPICAL FORMAL

What it means: You want to be mindful of where you are going, because you want to lean into lighter and airier fabrics. You need to wear something that can carry you through the day.

Ladies, wear this: Sundresses, especially dressier ones, are perfect for this. You can go all out with a halterneck, sleeveless or short sleeve. If you want to wear shorts, always go for a tailored dress short but no super-short shorts.

Men, wear this: Some type of button-down or trouser in something that breathes well. Linen is great but it wrinkles really easily, so if you’re going to have to travel, invest in a really good linen. Light cotton is another option. Short sleeves are allowed and this is where you can break out your “tasteful” Hawaiian shirts.

 

Photo by Fati Sadou/ABACAPRESS.COM
                                Paul Mescal in a casual ensemble.

Photo by Fati Sadou/ABACAPRESS.COM

Paul Mescal in a casual ensemble.

CASUAL

What it means: You can have more fun with what you are wearing. Casual weddings can be anything from a beach wedding to a backyard wedding to a lake wedding. A lot of casual weddings tend to be outside. It’s not formal at all, but the word “casual” doesn’t mean you show up in sweatpants.

Ladies, wear this: This is very relaxed dress code. Depending on the time of year, dresses in a floral or patterned fabric can work. You don’t have to be uptight about necklines or hemlines, but still no minis allowed. Jumpsuits are also acceptable.

Men, wear this: Knock yourself out. This is where your khakis, your chinos or a nice pair of denims (blue is acceptable for this dress code) come in. Slouchy suits in bold colours are another option. You can pair a nice white tee with a smart blazer and trousers, too.

 

Chris Pizzello / The Associated Press
If the invitation calls for non-standard dress code, you’ve won the fashion lottery. Do dress for an event, but like Ke Huy Quan, opt for a suit with a pattern and a personality.

Chris Pizzello / The Associated Press

If the invitation calls for non-standard dress code, you’ve won the fashion lottery. Do dress for an event, but like Ke Huy Quan, opt for a suit with a pattern and a personality.

NON-STANDARD

What it means: An opportunity for you to show off your personality, especially when it comes to colour. Non-standard is the complete opposite of being rigid and staying in your box. Go for a hot pink instead of a dusky rose or a sunflower yellow as opposed to a mustard yellow. You still want to be dressed for an event but it’s a bit more fun. Suits can be a pattern or textured — this is where you can wear your black and blue checkered suit and dresses can be a bit more loud.

av.kitching@freepress.mb.ca

AV Kitching

AV Kitching
Reporter

AV Kitching is an arts and life writer at the Free Press. She has been a journalist for more than two decades and has worked across three continents writing about people, travel, food, and fashion. Read more about AV.

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