Déjà vu with delicious twist Appices return to Exchange District to reclaim, reinvent space that launched Tre Visi

Opening Borgo Antico has been a homecoming for Giac and Susan Appice — quite literally, as the couple used to live in the third-floor loft above the McDermot Avenue restaurant while running Tre Visi in the early 2000s.

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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 30/01/2024 (615 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Opening Borgo Antico has been a homecoming for Giac and Susan Appice — quite literally, as the couple used to live in the third-floor loft above the McDermot Avenue restaurant while running Tre Visi in the early 2000s.

Tasting Notes

Borgo Antico, 173 McDermot Ave.
Open Tuesday to Thursday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Visit borgoanticowpg.com for more information

Borgo Antico, 173 McDermot Ave.
Open Tuesday to Thursday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Visit borgoanticowpg.com for more information

Sharing is caring at Borgo Antico. The menu is a mix of antipastos, salads, pastas and meat dishes served in shareable portions. Think tapas, Italian-style.

The Burrata ($19) features an arrangement of fresh heirloom and cherry tomatoes atop a wheel of cold, creamy cheese. Pistachios — served whole and as a foundation of the dish’s flavourful pesto drizzle — add a nuttiness that complements the sprinkling of crispy, salty mortadella strips. Order a side of Fett’unta ($5), grilled bread rubbed with garlic and olive oil, for a filling pairing.

The Pacheri al Pomodoro ($16) is delightfully simple. Large tubes of pacheri pasta noodles are tossed in a straightforward red sauce that lets the tomatoes shine, unencumbered by surplus ingredients. Dollops of silky ricotta and sprigs of fresh basil round out the experience.

Tasting Notes is an ongoing series about Winnipeg restaurants, new and old, meant to offer diners a taste of what’s on the menu.

Giac has had to retrain some of his muscle memories in the new but familiar space.

“Sometimes I’ll lean against a fridge or a counter … and I’ll fall back because the counter’s not there anymore,” he says.

Although some things have stayed the same.

“I remember all the light switches,” he adds with a laugh. “I don’t know where they are in my house, but here, I know where all the light switches are.”

Giac opened Tre Visi with his parents in the East Exchange District in 1994. The restaurant was fashioned after a New York-style Italian eatery, with crisp white tablecloths, savvy servers and traditional pasta dishes.

It was an immediate hit with diners and critics alike; the Free Press’s Marion Warhaft gave the spot five stars on her first pass.

The family moved Tre Visi to its current home on Grosvenor Avenue in 2012, selling the Exchange District business but retaining ownership of the building. When their previous tenant, the Mitchell Block, announced its closure last year, the couple had a decision to make.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
                                A dozen years after moving their Tre Visi to its Grosvenor Avenue location, Giac and Susan Appice returned to the Exchange after the last tenant, Mitchell Block, left last year.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

A dozen years after moving their Tre Visi to its Grosvenor Avenue location, Giac and Susan Appice returned to the Exchange after the last tenant, Mitchell Block, left last year.

“We sat down and said, ‘What do we do? Do we put the building up for sale? Do we try and do something else?’” Giac recalls.

They were aware of the impact the pandemic had on the downtown business community but wanted to find out for themselves how the neighbourhood was faring. A night out was in order.

“This was last January, it was super-cold. ‘Let’s go down and see what the vibe is,’” Susan recalls. “We went to Nonsuch (Brewing Co. on Pacific Avenue) first — we couldn’t get in, the place was packed.”

It was the same story at every other stop. Parking was hard to find and the area’s bars and restaurants were full of patrons from a variety of demographics — theatregoers, professionals, students, neighbourhood residents and fine and casual diners. It was a fateful scouting mission.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
                                The Pacheri al Pomodoro at Borgo Antico features dollops of silky ricotta and sprigs of fresh basil.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

The Pacheri al Pomodoro at Borgo Antico features dollops of silky ricotta and sprigs of fresh basil.

“I said to (Susan), ‘I like this movement; I think we should go back into this location.’ If (the restaurants) were all empty, I would have hesitated,” Giac says.

The Appices sold their shares in Tre Visi to longtime partner Heather Neskar and set out to create an entirely new concept. New menu, new name, no tablecloths.

The interior of Borgo Antico — which translates to “ancient borough” — is warm and colourful with creative nods to pasta. Large circular wall art is made to look like the face of a pasta press and the paint palette is inspired by Paglia e Fieno, a dish made with yellow and green noodles often called “straw and hay pasta.”

While the surroundings have been updated, the 44-seat restaurant has the same number of tables in the same configuration as the former Tre Visi — a feature that has provoked a sense of déjà vu for some returning customers, Susan says.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
                                The large glowing bar is the centrepiece of the Borgo Antico dining room and a veritable factory serving Winnipeggers’ thirst for Italian-style aperitifs.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

The large glowing bar is the centrepiece of the Borgo Antico dining room and a veritable factory serving Winnipeggers’ thirst for Italian-style aperitifs.

“I do hear people say they feel like they’ve been here before.”

The large glowing bar is the centrepiece of the dining room and a source of curiosity for the owners. While offering a substantial wine list was a top priority at the new restaurant, cocktails were something of an afterthought.

It turns out Winnipeggers have an affinity for Italian-style aperitifs, such as negroni spagliatos and Aperol spritzes.

“One day, I made 19 Hugo spritzes,” Susan says, referring to a cocktail made with St‑Germain liqueur, prosecco, soda, mint and lime.

The food has been a similar adventure. In leaving Tre Visi, chef Giac said goodbye to the recipes he developed over the last three decades. Coming up with a new menu of casual-but-refined shareable dishes has been a rewarding challenge.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
                                The Burrata incorporates 
pistachios and crispy mortadella.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS

The Burrata incorporates pistachios and crispy mortadella.

“It’s like starting to cook all over again. I had a new fresh start to try to do different things from scratch,” he says.

Since opening in November, the Appices have experienced a warm welcome back to the Exchange District. They’ve also fielded many questions about the second-floor lounge, previously home to Sensi Wine Lounge.

“That’s the million-dollar question,” Giac says, adding that while they’re not opposed to reopening the space, they’re also not keen to expand beyond their capacity.

“We’ll see how it goes.”

eva.wasney@winnipegfreepress.com

Twitter: @evawasney

Eva Wasney

Eva Wasney
Reporter

Eva Wasney has been a reporter with the Free Press Arts & Life department since 2019. Read more about Eva.

Every piece of reporting Eva produces is reviewed by an editing team before it is posted online or published in print — part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.

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