Festive beers bring warm, hearty cheer to winter season

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As the mercury creeps ever lower, daylight becomes more elusive and the calendar flips over to December, local brewers turn their attention to heartier brews — darker, bigger-bodied beers, some with seasonal flavours, and many with a higher alcohol content sure to keep you warm.

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Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 29/11/2024 (671 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

As the mercury creeps ever lower, daylight becomes more elusive and the calendar flips over to December, local brewers turn their attention to heartier brews — darker, bigger-bodied beers, some with seasonal flavours, and many with a higher alcohol content sure to keep you warm.

Most of the six wintry, festive brews reviewed this week have been in our market before, and are returning just in time for the holidays. They’re all brewed in Winnipeg and, unless otherwise noted, are available at the brewery at which they were made, at select beer vendors and at Liquor Marts.

Enjoy these slow sippers in our cooler temps, or tuck one in the stocking of your favourite beer-loving friend or family member.

 

● Brazen Brewing Co. Jól Mandarin Norse Farmhouse Belgian Tripel ($4.99/473 ml can, brewery, beer vendors)

This riff on a Belgian tripel is brewed with “juice and aromatic oranges”; it’s deep copper and hazy in appearance, with rich malt and dried fruit notes coming with orange peel and spice on the nose. It’s slightly off-dry and medium-bodied, with bold orange and orange peel flavours as well as malty and dried apricot notes, some subtle spice (but very little hops) and, at 9.5 per cent alcohol, a decent kick on the finish. Excellent stuff. 4.5/5

● FullGeek Brewlab Gumdrop Buttons Gingerbread Stout (Winnipeg — $3.99/473 ml can)

Deep cola brown in colour with a beige head, this lighter-coloured stout features molasses, vanilla extract, cinnamon, ginger, clove and nutmeg, all of which come through aromatically along with dark roasted malt. It’s medium-plus bodied and off-dry, with the vanilla component ramped up by the addition of lactose, while the dark malt and baking spices provide depth. At 34 IBU, those modest hop notes mimic the bite of the ginger. Begs for a gingerbread cookie; brewed at Oxus. 3.5/5

● Good Neighbour Brewing Co. Double Chocolate Cranberry Stout (Winnipeg — $4.60/473 ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Slightly lighter in colour (think root beer brown), this stout is brewed with cocoa nibs and conditioned on fresh cranberry; aromatically the dark-ish, slightly bitter cocoa notes take centre stage, with roasted malt and hints of cranberry and pepper. It’s medium-bodied and slightly off-dry, with the cocoa and cranberry flavours coming with a splash of vanilla, a touch of milk chocolate and slightly sweet roasted malt. The 6.5 per cent alcohol is pretty well hidden. 3.5/5

● Trans Canada Brewing Co. 2024 Cranberry Stout (Winnipeg — $6.94/500 ml bottle, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

This small-batch stout features roasted chocolate malt alongside the cranberry addition; it’s deep coffee brown-black in appearance and on the nose brings dried fruit, cranberry and hints of spice — almost like fruit cake in a glass. On the off-dry, medium-plus bodied palate the cranberry flavours burst out, working brilliantly with the roasted dark malts, the hints of chocolate-covered coffee beans and vanilla, the modest bitterness and, at seven per cent alcohol, the deceptively bold finish. Stunning as always, this remains among the best seasonal brews (from any time of the year) made in Manitoba. 5/5

● One Great City Humbug 3 Barrel-Aged Sour Porter (Winnipeg — $7.49/500 ml bottle, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Deep cola brown and with a very modest head, this porter’s quite boozy aromatically, smelling of raisins and other dried fruit, slightly sweet malt and whisky. On the mainly dry, medium-plus bodied palate there’s a Terry’s Chocolate Orange thing going on, with moderate tartness, very little in the way of bitterness and a slightly punchy seven per cent finish. A fun seasonal brew, with proceeds going to Variety Manitoba. 4/5

● Sookram’s Brewing Co. Peanut Butter Star Beast Imperial Stout (Winnipeg — $5.25/355 ml can, brewery, beer vendors, liquor Marts)

While peanut butter isn’t exactly full-on festive, this is certainly a winter warmer, deep espresso brown-black in colour and with a beige head. The initial nutty notes on the nose bring to mind peanut scratch-and-sniff stickers before the espresso, dark malt and actual peanut notes emerge. It’s full-bodied, medium-sweet and with an almost-creamy texture, with peanut butter, vanilla, espresso, dark malt and peppery flavours coming with medium bitterness and a long warm finish thanks to the gutsy 10.5 per cent alcohol. Sip slowly around a fire or with dainty-tray treats. 4/5

 

uncorked@mts.net

@bensigurdson

Ben Sigurdson

Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer

Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press‘s literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.

In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press’s editing team before being posted online or published in print. It’s part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.

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