Have a drink and pretend you’re at the beach
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Around these parts, doomscrolling has come to mean opening the Environment Canada app and wincing at the seven-day forecast.
On Dec. 20 I rounded up a half-dozen drinks to help beat the winter chill, and it seems since that time it seems we haven’t had much of a break temperature-wise — in fact in recent days, it’s only gotten far worse.
Thankfully, there are plenty of new, new-ish or returning local beers featuring hearty, robust flavours and a slightly boozy kick to help keep us warm until… well, whenever the weather decides to stop trying to kill us.
The Kilter Brewing Co. Jutsii Fruit Mango Peach IPA (Winnipeg — $5.50/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts) brings a taste of the tropics to our barren wintry wasteland.
Medium straw coloured and hazy, this collaboration IPA with Toronto’s Bellwoods Brewery features double dry-hopped Galaxy, Mosaic, Citra and El Dorado hops, with mango and peach purée also in the mix. Aromatically there’s loads of tropical fruit that comes with resinous, herbal notes with some malty undertones.
It’s mainly dry and medium-bodied, with grassy, resinous flavours coming alongside peach, mango, pineapple and gooseberry notes. The bitterness is moderate and, at seven per cent alcohol, the finish long and warm. Close your eyes and picture the beach. 4/5
The Farmery Crop Circle Double IPA (Neepawa — $4.49/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts) is medium gold in appearance and mainly clear, with a resinous note that comes with grassy notes as well as caramel, ripe apple and pine aromas and some secondary tropical notes.
It’s medium-bodied and dry, with grassy and herbal flavours coming with malt, peach, mango and apple skin notes, medium-plus hoppiness and, at 7.5 per cent alcohol, a long and warm finish. The aliens can come and take me away to someplace warmer anytime now. 3/5
Inspired by “the Dusseldorf Altbier,” the Black Wheat Brewing Co. Twilight Dark Lager (Brandon — $3.95/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts) is deep iced tea brown in appearance and brings deep caramel, dark malt, Tootsie Roll and biscuit notes along with a hint of dried fruit.
It’s dry and medium-bodied, with dark malt and Tootsie Roll flavours front and centre, some roasted coffee bean and white pepper notes in there as well, and a modest five per cent alcohol that works just right. 3.5/5
For a caffeinated pick-me-up, the Vessel Beer Co. Coffee First Capiche?! Milkshake Cappuccino Stout (Winnipeg — $4.40/473ml can, Nonsuch Brewing Co., beer vendors, Liquor Marts) is back with a new look.
Brewed with Thom Bargen’s Always Sunny cold brew, this coffee-infused stout (with lactose) is deep cola brown in appearance, and aromatically brings chocolate-covered espresso beans, vanilla, dark roasted malts and subtle herbal/chalky notes.
It’s mainly dry, medium-plus bodied and lively, with slightly bitter herbal notes coming with chocolate-covered espresso bean flavours, the underlying vanilla component adding depth and texture and the 5.6 per cent alcohol proving to be right on the mark for a beer of this weight. Pour a venti-sized glass and enjoy. 4/5
A riff on the brewery’s popular (and delicious) Grandpa’s Sweater Stout, the Barn Hammer Brewing Co. Granny’s Sweater Strong Oatmeal Stout (Winnipeg — $3.99/355ml cans, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts) is deep cola brown in appearance, with dried fruit, flaked oats, white pepper and chalky aromas as well as dried cherry skins.
It’s full-bodied and not as sweet as your granny — in other words, it’s mainly dry — with dried fruit flavours working well with the rich chocolate and vanilla notes before the subtle herbal and malty component comes through. The 7.8 per cent finish is surprisingly deceptive — delicious stuff.
Check out Barn Hammer’s Sweater Weather event on Saturday, Jan. 31 at the brewery (595 Wall St.) to taste some small-batch stouts, enjoy some comfort food and get your sweaters mended (yes, really). Bring your granny. 4.5/5
The biggest of this week’s brews is the Obsolete Brewing Co. The Lightkeeper Crème Brûlée Imperial Stout (Dauphin — $5.98/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts).
Inky brown-black in appearance with a deep beige head, this high-octane stout offers deep vanilla, milk chocolate, sweet dark malt, caramel and hints of black licorice and mocha aromatically.
It’s full-bodied, chewy and medium-sweet, with creamy vanilla and brown sugar notes front and centre followed by Tootsie Roll, sweet dark malt and hints of dried fruit before the punchy (but still totally manageable) 10.5 per cent alcohol on the long, very warm and slightly sweet finish. Full steam ahead. 4.5/5
winnipegfreepress.com/bensigurdson
Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press‘s literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.
In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press’s editing team before being posted online or published in print. It’s part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.
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