Summer drinks, sweater weather

Having lived my whole life in this province and having written about wine/drinks for over 20 years, you’d think I’d know better than to base the theme of a column on Manitoba’s expected weather.

The Victoria Day weekend typically sees cottagers open up camp for the year, garage sale season kick off in earnest and farmers markets ramp up in anticipation of summer. And more often than not, the May long weekend ushers in the first warm, sunny days leading into summer.

Well, after an apocalyptic dust storm, this year’s Victoria Day weekend looks to be getting increasingly cooler as the days go by, with rain slated to arrive along with temperatures that will have you reaching for a sweater rather than sunscreen.

Having gone ahead with my plan to taste six wines for a weekend than often brings warmer weather, I take full responsibility for the dismal forecast.

Now, is it safe to take off my winter tires yet?

Wines of the week

Chateau des Charmes NV Éclat! Bubbles (St. David’s Bench, Ont. — $19.95, Liquor Marts and beyond)

It’s not clear what grapes are in this Ontario sparkling wine, which is made in the Charmat method (secondary fermentation, which creates the bubbles, happens in tanks rather than in the bottle).

It’s very pale straw in appearance, with lively bubbles that bring ripe Granny Smith apple, lime rind, lemon candy and floral aromas.

It’s light-bodied, off-dry and pretty prosecco-like, with vibrant effervescence and a hint of sweetness coming with cheerful apple, citrus and peach notes and moderate acidity. Pleasant on its own, or would work well in a mimosa. 3/5

Selaks 2025 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand — $16.49, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Pale straw in appearance, this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is brimming with gooseberry, lime, green apple and grapefruit aromas, with just a hint of grassiness on the nose.

It’s dry, light-bodied and brisk, with racy acidity helping deliver fresh citrus and crabapple flavours, with subtle herbal/grassy notes following and, at 12.5 per cent alcohol, a modest finish.

Fun, lively and well-priced. 3.5/5

Azulejo 2023 Rosé (Lisboa, Portugal — $14.99, Calabria Market)

While this Portuguese pink wine isn’t labelled as a Vinho Verde, it sure acts like one.

Pale pink in appearance, the Azulejo offers fresh strawberry, lemon zest, pear and floral notes aromatically.

On the mainly dry and light-bodied palate, strawberry and cherry flavours show well, with ripe lemon and green apple flavours complementing. It’s the racy acidity, hint of effervescence and low (9.5 per cent) alcohol that are decidedly Vinho Verde-esque, making for a poignant pink wine for fresh salads or (eventually) the patio. 3/5

Gerard Bertrand 2023 Le Chouchou Light Red Blend (Vin de France — $19.95, Liquor Marts and beyond)

A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, this French red is very pale ruby in appearance and, as per the label and winery website, is meant to be drunk chilled.

Fresh cherry, strawberry, raspberry and floral notes shine aromatically, while on the mainly dry, light-bodied palate those red fruit flavours also show well, with no oak aging, virtually no tannin and a modest 11 per cent alcohol.

Try this at room temperature and the flavours will seem disjointed; chill it right down and taste how the flavours suddenly come together. Try with grilled veggies/chicken, soft but mild cheeses or lighter salads. 3.5/5

DeBortoli 2025 Cool Climate Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley, Australia — $24.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Bright but pale cherry red in appearance, aromatically this Aussie Pinot Noir brings violet, raspberry, cherry and subtle earthy and cola notes on the nose.

It’s dry and light-plus bodied; the wine spent a short time in casks, but there’s no wood influence flavour-wise, allowing the ripe raspberry, cherry and blackberry flavours to lead the charge, with some fun secondary cola and red licorice notes.

There’s some decent acidity here along with very modest tannins and, at 13.5 per cent alcohol, a medium-length finish. Chill this lively, crunchy and delicious light red for about 15 minutes and serve with pork loin, cedar-plank salmon, mushroom risotto or lamb. 4.5/5

Tedeschi 2022 Valpolicella Superiore (Veneto, Italy — $26.99, The Winehouse)

Pale ruby in appearance, this northern Italian red is made from Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella grapes, bringing ripe cherry and strawberry aromas along with earthy, leafy notes and a hint of black licorice.

It’s medium-bodied and bone dry, bringing ripe red cherry and strawberry notes as well as tart raspberry, secondary leafy notes and a dusting of earth, with light tannins and medium acidity and a relatively lengthy finish (it’s 14 per cent alcohol).

Twelve months in Slavonian barrels has added structure without smothering the fruit in loads of oak — try with pizza, eggplant parmigiana or sliders. 4/5

winnipegfreepress.com/bensigurdson