Jollof joust Chefs gather in St. Boniface to see whose version of rice dish is best
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Chef Alex Bockarie is bringing an age-old African culinary battle to Winnipeg.
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On Saturday, five local chefs hailing from Senegal, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Ghana and Nigeria will go head-to-head to determine who makes the best jollof — a rice dish simmered in a savoury tomato-based stew.
“Jollof rice originated from Senegal but it has spread throughout West Africa and every country has its own method of cooking it,” Bockarie says. “It’s a long-standing fight; even among the communities here in Winnipeg, everybody’s always saying that Sierra Leone’s (jollof) is the best, Ghana’s is the best, Nigeria’s is the best.
“It’s a friendly competition; friendly, but very serious too.”
Bockarie grew up in Sierra Leone, where jollof was a special-occasion dish served at important holiday gatherings.
“If you don’t have jollof rice, then your party is not complete,” he says.
Prior to moving to Winnipeg 25 years ago, Bockarie worked as an executive chef in diplomatic residencies in the Middle East and today runs a private catering and meal prep business called Xpress Chef Kitchen.
SUPPLIED Chef Alex Bockarie is hosting Winnipeg’s first jollof rice cooking competition this weekend.
This weekend’s event, dubbed the Jollof War, is the maiden voyage of Bockarie’s new Culinary Crown Cooking Competition series, which aims to celebrate different African cuisines during annual live cooking contests.
Regional differences abound when it comes to making jollof, which can be more or less smoky, spicy and acidic, depending on its country of origin.
“Some countries use a white rice that is almost like long-grain basmati and there are countries that use parboiled rice, but the big difference lies in making the stew,” Bockarie says. “We have different ways of cooking it and there are some spices that Sierra Leone might add that Nigeria or Liberia will not.”
The battle will unfold at Centre culturel franco-manitobain in St. Boniface, where attendees will be able to sample and vote for their favourite jollof, while enjoying entertainment and a vendor market.
The competing chefs — Abigail Obuobi, representing Ghana; Linda Amiolemeh-Soyemi, Nigeria; Margaret Konteh, Sierra Leone; William Browne, Liberia; and Ndeye Lo, Senegal — will also be assessed by a panel of judges assembled by the Winnipeg branch of the Canadian Culinary Federation, which has partnered with Bockarie on the event.
“We’re going to be looking at the differences that set each jollof apart. Flavour is going to be the No. 1 detail we’re looking at, as well as presentation and aroma,” says chef Scott Hyndman, president of the federation’s local chapter. “And specifically during the cooking competition, it’s going to be how they execute and how they perform in front of the (crowd).”
NOAH ALORWU / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS Ghana-style jollof rice
In addition to bragging rights, the winning chef will receive a trophy and prize pack from the Canadian Culinary Federation, a national organization for culinary professionals.
Bockarie hopes to take his Jollof War to other Canadian cities and plans to host a new Culinary Crown Cooking Competition in Winnipeg every September. Attendees to the inaugural event can expect a day of good food and high-energy fun.
“It’s going to be like when two African nations are playing soccer … I know all these countries are ready to put on a show,” he says.
eva.wasney@winnipegfreepress.com
Eva Wasney has been a reporter with the Free Press Arts & Life department since 2019. Read more about Eva.
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