Elie Saab blends 19th-century romance with red carpet precision in fall couture

PARIS (AP) — Elie Saab, the Lebanese designer long favored on the red carpet, returned to familiar territory on Wednesday, with fall haute couture — and did so unapologetically.

In Paris, fashion insiders gathered among marble columns as models descended a gilded stone staircase to the strains of harpsichord music, setting the tone for a collection steeped in historical romance.

Saab leaned into his signature codes: sumptuous velvets, gowns gathered at the back, and pearl and jewel-adorned chokers. Floral appliqués — another hallmark — blossomed, anchoring the collection in the femininity that has defined the house for decades.

This was a particularly thoughtful collection, evoking Romantic silhouettes from the turn of the 19th century in Europe. The soft draping and historical references gave the show a sense of emotional depth beyond its surface opulence.

Macaron hues — nude, rose pink, water blue, and mint — punctuated by imperial black and gold, set off bold blooms across brocade and print, infusing the collection with romantic vibrancy. Among the standout pieces were gowns with cascading trains and bejeweled details, encasing the body in a kind of luxurious cage. Among the standout pieces were gowns with cascading trains and bejeweled details, encasing the body in a kind of luxurious cage.

Elie Saab said the collection — dubbed “The New Court” — was “a sumptuous playground for the modern queen — one who plays by her own rules.”

Though luxury and opulence may be Saab’s well-trodden path, he showed that consistency remains its own form of artistry.

Saab’s couture is less about surprise and more about control — control of silhouette, embellishment, and fantasy. Where other houses have veered into avant-garde or gender-fluid territory this season, Saab stayed rooted in his vision of archetypal femininity, shaped by heritage and craftsmanship.

If the show felt familiar at times, it was also undeniably polished — a standout collection that reminded audiences why Saab’s world of embellished escapism continues to resonate.

It’s a formula that keeps Hollywood coming back. Angelina Jolie, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sarah Jessica Parker, Marion Cotillard, Penélope Cruz, Charlize Theron, Emmanuelle Béart, Sophie Marceau, Beyoncé, Maggie Cheung and Diane Kruger have all stepped onto the world’s biggest stages in Saab’s gowns — a testament to a house where fantasy and glamour are always in season.