A time and a place

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 29/01/2011 (5597 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

When analyzing a wine, most wine professionals/geeks prefer as neutral a setting as possible. Most of the wines I review for this column and elsewhere are reviewed at the same time (after the kids are in bed), in the same place (kitchen table), and using the same shape and size of glass for all the wines. I try and control any and all external influences in order to retain some sort of consistency when reviewing wines.

Why is this important? Well, have you ever been to a dinner or party and tried a great bottle of wine, then try it again only to find that it doesn’t taste nearly as good as you remembered? There are so many things influencing and enhancing your opinion of a wine the first time that giving the wine another go in a different context is almost never as rewarding. What a wine tastes like — and your opinion of that wine — changes based on what’s going on around it (and you). A wine will never taste exactly the same twice.

First of all, there’s the physical environment and all the variables that go along with it. If the room you’re tasting wine in is low-lit, you might not be able to properly analyze the colour — not that big of a deal, but a factor nonetheless. Or maybe you’re sitting next to someone sporting some serious cologne or perfume. This has a huge impact — a fragrance can easily overpower our ability to smell and taste.

Similarly, the smells and flavours of food can also impact our palate. Spicy, garlicky or other strong-flavoured foods linger on the palate, and can hamper our ability to pick up more subtle components of a wine.

There are other external factors to consider as well. Glassware plays a large part in maximizing your enjoyment of wine; thicker goblet-type glasses can suppress the aromas and flavours of a wine. Ideally, a glass is fairly thin, and is pear-shaped — larger at the bottom of the bowl and smaller at the top. Make sure the glass isn’t too full to allow decent swirling, which will release more aromas and concentrate them where our nose meets the wine, so to speak — at the opening of the glass.

The temperature of a wine can also impact how it tastes. The flavours of a wine served too cold are muted as the molecules constrict; alternately, wines served too warm will seem flabby and alcoholic.

State of mind can also greatly influence opinions on a wine. Drinking wine with dinner and/or friends is usually a pleasant experience; we’re not making notes while tasting the wine, but we record our enjoyment of our time mentally. This nostalgia can make the food and wine seem just a bit better than it actually was (especially if wine was consumed in great quantity). Trying the wine in a different environment can then be slightly underwhelming.

Even something as simple as being in a bad mood can affect one’s ability to taste and/or appreciate wine. These mental components can impact our feelings about a wine as much as eating spicy curry or a garlicky Caesar salad impacts our physical palate.

BODEGA LA RURAL 2009 “LA VUELTA” TORRONTÉS (Mendoza, Argentina — around $12, available at private wine stores)

Intense honey, spice, tangerine, peach and cantaloupe notes are all typical Torrontés aromas, and they’re delivered with some decent intensity by La Vuelta. It’s a medium-bodied white that isn’t bogged down by overripe tropical notes. Light acidity keeps slightly tart peach, fresh pear and spice notes lively and juicy. Try with Asian fare, especially something a bit spicy (and maybe with some shrimp thrown in). 87/100

GANTON & LARSEN PROSPECT WINERY 2008 “BIRCH CANOE” PINOT BLANC (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $13.99, available at Liquor Marts and beyond)

Red apple, ripe grapefruit, pear, floral and mineral notes are mellow but well-integrated, making the nose on the Birch Canoe complex yet restrained. Despite its name, this wine sees no oak. Instead, it shows fresh citrus and apple flavours, while light honey notes add roundness. Try this subtle white with lighter fish dishes, fresh fruit or milder, creamy cheeses. 86/100

VALDIVIESO 2007 SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC (Colchagua Valley, Chile — $21.95, available at Liquor Marts and beyond)

Blackcurrant, milk chocolate, blueberry, savoury herb and light vanilla bean aromas hit you full throttle on the nose. This is a big, full-bodied red that leads with cassis, chocolate, black tea and white pepper flavours before a light savoury note emerges on the finish with the chewy, tooth-coating tannin. It’s a steak wine through and through — the oak, tannin and intense black fruit notes need a big meat dish. 90/100

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