Making grape strides

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 25/06/2011 (5479 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Every year, I get to taste hundreds of Canadian wines, and I couldn’t be happier or feel more privileged to do it. As a judge for Wine Access’s Canadian Wine Awards, I always jump at the chance to see (and taste) the progress Canadian viticulturalists and winemakers are making in the country’s primary grape-growing regions.

 

I wouldn’t be as enthusiastic about it if it weren’t for the fact that producers from Canada are, in fact, continuing to make such great strides in both quality and consistency. Canadian wines are winning hardware and praise at the Canadian Wine Awards and beyond with greater frequency and — thankfully, in my opinion — it’s no longer just for the super-sweet icewines we’ve been known for.

With increasing frequency, producers are embracing their climate and soil — their terroir — and making wine from the grapes that grow best in their region. Ontario producers are producing more and more world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — hopefully we see some more reds and whites from the burgeoning Prince Edward County region in our market, as they’re an area of the Ontario to watch. Similarly, B.C. producers are stepping up their game when it comes to Bordeaux-style reds and Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and more when it comes to whites.

Expect the buzz about Canadian wines to grow throughout the year as the 2012 Winnipeg Wine Festival draws closer. It’s pretty much a done deal that Canadian wines will be the focus of next year’s fest (B.C. and Ontario wines, specifically). On that note, I’m heading to the Okanagan Valley next month to get an on-the-ground look at what’s shaking there, and will be reporting back with everything you need to know about B.C. wines. There will also be some interesting Canadian wine-related activities happening here in Manitoba in the months to come — stay tuned.

In the meantime, toast our country’s birthday this Canada Day with a homegrown red, white, rosé and/or sparkling wine. There are plenty of great Canadian wines in our market to suit almost any palate, with plenty more to come. If you’re in doubt, check out Wine Access‘s Canadian Wine Annual, which features profiles on every region and over 500 wineries across the country (full disclosure — I wrote the Prairies section.)

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LAKE BREEZE 2008 PINOT GRIS

(Okanagan Valley, British Columbia — $19, Liquor Marts and beyond)

 

Pinot Gris is one of my favourite white grapes grown in B.C., and the Lake Breeze doesn’t disappoint. Pear, red apple skin, peach and cashew aromas are fairly typical of this grape variety. It’s medium-bodied (as opposed to the lighter-style Pinot Grigio wines), with those same tree fruit components coming through on the nose with good balance and ripeness. 88/100

 

MALIVOIRE 2010 “LADYBUG” ROSÉ

(Niagara Peninsula, Ontario — around $17, private wine stores)

 

Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Pinot Noir are the grapes that make up this dry Ontario rosé. Strawberry jam, cotton candy and perfume are most prominent on the nose. This is a bone-dry, racy rosé, with crisp strawberry and raspberry notes made more complex by light rhubarb notes on the light-plus bodied palate. While delicious on its own, the Ladybug would be elevated by some grilled salmon and/or kebabs. 87/100

 

MISSION HILL 2010 “FIVE VINEYARDS” ROSÉ (Okanagan Valley, British Columbia — $15.49, Liquor Marts and beyond)

 

Like the Malivoire, this pink wine is a blend of three grapes — this time it’s Cabernet Franc, with Merlot and Shiraz. It’s a similar pale pink in colour to the Malivoire, showing interesting rhubarb, watermelon rind and floral notes on the nose. There’s just a touch of sweetness here, bringing the juicy red berry flavours to life on the palate. Try this rounder, slightly softer pink wine with light cheeses or salads. 86/100

 

BIRCHWOOD 2008 “FRESH” CABERNET GAMAY

(Ontario — $11.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

 

Cherry, vanilla, raspberry and spice aromas are, yes, quite fresh here. It’s a medium-bodied, juicy red, with strawberry and raspberry flavours that are simple and almost sweet on the palate. Like a dry rosé, this Fresh red would be an ideal transition wine for those looking to make the jump from whites to reds or vice versa. Drink slightly chilled with a not-too-heavy or serious dish. 85/100

 

PELEE ISLAND 2008 LATE HARVEST RIESLING

(Pelee Island, Ont. — $14.95, Liquor Marts and beyond)

 

This Ontario white has quite the compelling nose: lemon candy, herbs, white pepper, peach and some minerality. It’s off-dry, is light-plus bodied and has a great mouthfeel, with nutty, lemon, honey, almond and peach notes coming through on the viscous palate. Try this great-value, not-too-dry-and-not-too-sweet white with fresh fruit, curry dishes or creamy cheeses. 87/100