Ketchup catch-up

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This article was published 10/08/2011 (5239 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

There’s a seasonal shift going on in the condiment firmament. Ketchup, the big red staple of many pantries, is catching up with the cool crowd as chefs and food entrepreneurs seek new inspiration.

“It’s a very exciting time to be making ketchup,” says Scott Norton, who with Mark Ramadan founded the recently launched Sir Kensington’s Gourmet Scooping Ketchup.

Organic ketchup, spicy ketchup, gourmet ketchup, curry ketchup, all have blossomed in recent years, a development that James Oseland, editor-in-chief of Saveur magazine, has noted with approval. “Who doesn’t love a good ketchup?” he points out.

About the whole ketchup versus ketchup thing — like tomato versus tomahto — this seems to be a matter of personal choice. Oseland uses both depending on his mood.

The big tomato in American sauce, of course, is Heinz, which launched its ketchup in 1876. Interestingly, this wasn’t the company’s first venture; Heinz began with a horseradish sauce in 1869. Today, more than 650 million bottles of Heinz ketchup are sold worldwide, adding up to more than $1.5 billion in annual sales.

Tradition is part of the appeal of Heinz; this year the company brought back the classic glass bottles for a limited time in stores. This is the bottle with the “57” on the neck denoting the “sweet spot” one taps to get the ketchup to exit at maximum velocity of .045 kilometres an hour. But Heinz, the market leader, also has been part of the changing sauce scene, expanding its products to include a no added salt version, organic ketchup, a Hot & Spicy bottle with a kick of Tabasco sauce, and Simply Heinz, which uses sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup.

Hunt’s and Del Monte are two other big names in U.S. ketchup; additional brands that have found a place on the shelf include Annie’s Naturals Organic Ketchup, Muir Glen Organic Ketchup, Organicville Tomato Ketchup and Stonewall Kitchen Country Ketchup, a product described as “ketchup all grown up.”

Norton and Ramadan’s ketchup chronicles began about three years ago when they started cooking homemade tomato ketchup as economics majors at Brown University.

“We love ketchup,” explains Ramadan. They thought it was curious that there only a few dominant brands of ketchup, as opposed to mustard, for instance, and thought, “Wouldn’t it be fun to try to make something in our own kitchen.”

They held tasting parties and came up with two flavour profiles, classic and spiced, now available online and in stores, including Williams-Sonoma and Whole Foods Market. The ketchup, billed as having less sodium and sugar than leading brands, is sweetened with agave nectar, honey and raw brown sugar and includes apple cider vinegar for a tangy kick. Other ingredients include coriander, lime juice, allspice, cilantro and cayenne pepper.

In some ways the concept of gourmet ketchup sounds slightly oxymoronic. Ketchup, a burger’s best friend, is unabashedly of the people and a product that tends to stir strong opinions. The question of eggs, to sauce or not to sauce, can be particularly thorny and describing someone as calling for ketchup in a fancy restaurant is shorthand for gaucherie.

Oseland didn’t much care for ketchup as a kid but was won over as an adult, probably after trying french fries with the accompanying foil packet of sauce. Since then he’s “absolutely grown to appreciate ketchup as really one of the most blessed condiments.”

He notes that many overdo it and drown their food — not a good plan. But the idea that ketchup lacks cache is “just patent foolishness.” He’s tickled when sitting in a posh, white tablecloth restaurant and “a beautiful silver-plated tureen of ketchup comes out. In fact, it doesn’t seem inappropriate at all. It seems, ‘At last ketchup has arrived,’ and rightfully so.”

Spicy Peach Ketchup

Start to finish: 1 hour

 

15 ml (1 tbsp) vegetable or canola oil

2 medium yellow onions, sliced

2 cloves garlic, chopped

6 peaches, peeled and pitted (two 284-ml/10-oz bags of thawed frozen peaches can be substituted)

5 ml (1 tsp) red pepper flakes

2 ml (1/2 tsp) ground allspice

1 ml (1/4 tsp) ground cloves

10 ml (2 tsp) adobo sauce

125 ml (1/2 cup) packed brown sugar (approx)

125 ml (1/2 cup) cider vinegar (approx)

5 ml (1 tsp) salt (approx)

 

In a deep sauté pan over medium, heat oil. Add onions and garlic, then cook, stirring occasionally, until onions turn golden brown and caramelized, about 15 minutes. If they start to darken too much, add 15 ml (1 tbsp) of water.

Add peaches, red pepper flakes, allspice, cloves, adobo sauce, brown sugar, vinegar and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes or until thick.

Working in batches, transfer mixture to a blender and purée. Adjust seasoning with additional sugar, salt or vinegar. Transfer mixture to a clean jar and refrigerate. Keeps for up to 3 weeks.

Makes 750 ml (3 cups).

Nutrition information per 15 ml (1 tbsp) (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 25 calories; 5 calories from fat (15 per cent of total calories); 0 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 6 g carbohydrate; 0 g protein; 0 g fibre; 95 mg sodium.

Source: Recipe from Alison Ladman

Homemade Tomato Ketchup

This recipe makes plenty. The excess can be frozen for use throughout the summer. Freeze in small containers so you can thaw just what you need.

Start to finish: 1 hour

 

30 ml (2 tbsp) pickling spice

15 ml (1 tbsp) vegetable or canola oil

1 large sweet onion, sliced

2 cans (each 796 ml/28 oz) crushed tomatoes

5 ml (1 tsp) garlic powder

1 ml (1/4 tsp) cayenne

10 ml (2 tsp) smoked paprika

10 ml (2 tsp) mustard powder

15 ml (1 tbsp) Worcestershire sauce

175 ml (3/4 cup) packed brown sugar

175 ml (3/4 cup) cider vinegar

10 ml (2 tsp) salt

2 ml (1/2 tsp) ground black pepper

 

Using a small square of cheesecloth, tie pickling spice into a bundle with butchers twine or string. Set aside.

In a deep sauté pan over medium, heat oil. Add onion and sauté until soft and beginning to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, garlic powder, cayenne, smoked paprika, mustard powder, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, cider vinegar, salt, pepper and pickling spice sachet. Cook for 45 minutes or until thick.

Remove and discard pickling spice sachet. Working in batches, transfer to a blender and purée. Transfer mixture to a clean jar and refrigerate. Keeps for up to 3 weeks.

Makes 1.75 l (7 cups).

Nutrition information per tbsp (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 15 calories; 0 calories from fat (10 per cent of total calories); 0 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 3 g carbohydrate; 0 g protein; 0 g fibre; 70 mg sodium.

Source: Recipe from Alison Ladman

Doctored Ketchup

If making your own ketchup from scratch doesn’t sound like an endeavour you’d indulge in, consider doctoring up the purchased variety. With these simple suggestions, you can easily make plain old ketchup into something special and all your own.

— Chili Ketchup: In a blender, purée 250 ml (1 cup) ketchup, 30 ml (2 tbsp) chili powder, 5 ml (1 tsp) cumin, 2 ml (1/2 tsp) dried oregano, 5 ml (1 tsp) smoked paprika, 2 ml (1/2 tsp) garlic powder, 2 ml (1/2 tsp) onion powder and 5 ml (1 tsp) hot sauce.

— Raspberry Balsamic Ketchup: In a blender, purée 250 ml (1 cup) ketchup, 50 ml (1/4 cup) seedless raspberry jam and 30 ml (2 tbsp) balsamic vinegar.

— Peloponnese Ketchup: In a blender, purée 1 jar drained roasted red peppers, 125 ml (1/2 cup) ketchup, 5 ml (1 tsp) lemon zest and 125 ml (1/2 cup) pitted kalamata olives.

— Thai Ketchup: In a blender, purée 250 ml (1 cup) ketchup, 5 ml (1 tsp) garlic chili paste, 30 ml (2 tbsp) chopped fresh cilantro, 10 ml (2 tsp) grated fresh ginger, 10 ml (2 tsp) soy sauce, 15 ml (1 tbsp) rice wine vinegar.

Source: Recipe from Alison Ladman

 

— The Associated Press