Tiny bubbles: Add some sparkle to your celebration with an effervescent wine

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 24/12/2011 (5222 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Since I’m sure you all rushed out, last week’s column in hand, to pick up wines for your holiday meal, this week we turn to one of the most wine-centric holidays out there — New Year’s Eve. Dec. 31 is all about the sparkling wine (including Champagne; more on that below), and with a little help you get the best bubbles without blowing your budget.

The most important thing to know is that Champagne is usually only referred to as such when the product comes from the region of the same name in France. I say “usually” because there are still a couple of cheap, sweet, fizzy (and nasty) bubblies that aren’t made in France that call themselves Champagne. Most producers with a conscience use the term “sparkling wine,” not “Champagne.” If you go into your local shop and ask for Champagne, you’ll be shown the French stuff, and it starts at around $45 a pop. Save yourself and your favourite shop’s staff some time and grief and decide whether you want sparkling wine or Champagne.

Sparkling wine is made all over the world, and often goes by different names: Prosecco or Spumante in Italy (the latter is usually sweet), Cava in Spain, Sekt in Germany, and so forth. They tend to be made using the same methods that were pioneered in the Champagne region of France — secondary fermentation happens in the bottle, providing the fizz. Most sparkling wines made in the same method as French Champagne will say “traditional method” or some variation somewhere on the label. It means the wine isn’t gassed with CO2 for carbonation — the bubbles happen naturally.

In terms of value, Spanish Cava is still your best bet for good value bubbly. Made using indigenous Spanish grapes, it tends to be a bit leaner than those made in the Champagne. Italian Prosecco is pretty consistent as well, and tends to bring a hint of sweetness with peach and floral notes. Australia, California and Canada all make very good sparkling wine using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or both grapes together — the two grapes most often used to make French Champagne.

So how do you know whether a bottle of bubbly is dry or sweet? Well, the label will generally tell you, as long as you know what to look for. There are a variety of terms that reflect the amount of residual sugar left in the wine after all the fermentation is said and done. From driest to sweetest, sparkling wine will typically be labelled Brut Zéro/Naturel, Extra Brut, Brut, Sec, Demi-Sec, and Doux.

There are other tricks to determining sweetness as well. As is the case with most still wine, the lower the alcohol, the higher the sweetness tends to be. Bubbly wine from Asti, for example, is typically around five to six per cent alcohol and is quite sweet. A Brut sparkling wine — the most common on our shelves — typically sits in the 11.5 to 12 per cent alcohol range, and is relatively dry.

The great thing about sparkling wine is its versatility. It’s perfect with hors d’oeuvres and most finger food, including its remarkable ability to pair with potato chips, pretzels and other salty snacks. It’s also one of the few wines that works with eggs, so don’t be shy to pull out some bubbly with brunch, whether it be on its own or mixed with some orange juice for a mimosa.

 

Freixenet NV Cordon Negro (Cava, Spain — $13.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Perhaps the most popular bubbly come New Year’s Eve, is the Cordon Negro worth it? Stony minerality, citrus rind, apple skin, light floral and pear notes on the nose deliver exactly what you’d expect from a Spanish Cava. On the palate it’s light and crisp, with green apple skin, pear, lemon zest and chalky mineral flavours and a clean finish. As always, a good value. 87/100

Caposaldo NV Spumante (Prosecco, Italy — $17.95, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Pear, peach, melon, floral and light mineral notes on the nose here are pretty, with the latter adding some needed complexity here. It’s a fresh, light, off-dry bubbly that delivers peach, pear and sweet-ish red apple notes on the light-bodied palate. 86/100

Jansz NV Cuvée (Tasmania, Australia — around $29, private wine stores)

Tasmania boasts the perfect climate to be making both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — both grapes used in making French Champagne — so it’s no surprise they make some killer bubblies. Raspberry, red apple, mineral, bread dough and light caramel notes show beautifully on the nose. While the apple and raspberry flavours come across crisp on the palate, there’s an interesting cherry pie flavour that brings some richness to this bubbly. Interesting, tasty stuff. 89/100

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