Marion’s memories

Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 23/12/2015 (3569 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Since this is the second-last column I will be writing for the Free Press, I’d like to share some memories of certain foods that so delighted me, I often wanted to return almost immediately for more.

Some evoked memories of my personal food history; others were totally new experiences.

Some are locally rare, all are moderately priced and all were — for me, at least — memorable.

When asked about my favourite food, the answer is always French — anything from bourgeois to provincial to haute cuisine. Like Josephine Baker, my deuxième amour is Paris, and no restaurant evokes Paris for me as much as the ambience of PEASANT COOKERY, and its platter of house-made charcuterie. There are usually three pâtés, two salamis and — most notably — duck prosciutto and bresaola air-dried beef. And if you turn up on Wednesday, after 5 p.m., you can precede the platter with oysters at $1 each. 285 Bannatyne Ave., 204-989-7700.’

BISTRO DANSK has been a model of consistent excellence for almost three decades, with only rare changes to the menu, which suggests novelty isn’t always the best policy. It’s the only place I can have my favourite frikadeller (Danish beef and pork meatballs) and a glass of icy akvavit. The crusty chicken schnitzel, the potato salad and the sumptuous hazelnut pie are also among the city’s best. 63 Sherbrook St., 204-775-5662.

Tofu is something I’ve usually liked most when it’s disguised or combined with other ingredients. But I was so stunned by KYU’s agedashi tofu, I could have polished off another order — crusty balls with a soft, almost custardy interior. This was my first experience with Japanese izakaya snacks, and two others were particularly impressive: the slices of beef wrapped around pickled carrots; and the fried balls of ground shrimp with a sweet chili sauce. 185 Isabel St., 204-504-8999.

GOLDEN LOONG’s Northwest Chinese specialties are rare, even on Pembina — such terrific items as Xian chili-spiked cold noodles with cucumbers in chili oil; the hot, spicy pork with hand-ripped noodles; and the anise- and cumin-seasoned chicken in iron wok with cloud ear mushrooms, potatoes and fried dough strips. For a delectable snack, try the burger of stewed, shredded pork in an English muffin-like roll. 2237 Pembina Hwy., 204-504-6766.

HAI SHANG is the only place I have found the fabulous Shanghai xiao long bao dumplings with the soup inside the wrapper, and the even rarer dumplings with a delicate, gingery fish filling. Shanghai-trained pastry chef Yan Yan Shen’s feathery, ultra-flaky sweet pastries should be a revelation to those who think fortune cookies are the be-all and end-all of Chinese pastries. 2991 Pembina Hwy., 204-505-1887.

MERCADITO LATINO’s tortilla soup was a glorious first for me — rich chicken broth crammed with strips of chicken, avocado, melted cheese, sour cream and crisp tortilla chips. It’s almost a meal in itself, but if more is needed, the soft corn masa pupusas with cheese, pork and/or beans are also wonderful. 670 Sargent Ave., 204-415-2870.

VIENA DO CASTELO’s flavour-packed whole Portuguese chicken is great for a takeout dinner — glazed in piri piri sauce (mild, medium or hot), roasted upright over a half-empty beer can (the steam keeps the flesh moist), with a heap of potato chunks cooked in the juices. The housemade courico sausage is the best I’ve found, and the innumerable little pastries — chocolate or honey cakes, custard or coconut tarts to name only a few — are exquisite. 819 Sargent Ave., 204-415-4615.

My first donair was in Istanbul, and although I’ve had others that were good, BEST PIZZA AND DONAIR’s was not only the best I’ve found locally but the closest to that Turkish ideal — sliced from a rotating vertical spit of garlicky marinated beef and lamb (choose the garlic rather than the white sauce). Chicken with citrusy undertones is similarly prepared and both come either in pitas or on platters garnished with hummus and salads. There are a few tables but it’s basically for takeout. 1469 Pembina Hwy., 204-275-0444.

The only indication that GEORGE’S INN AND SUBMARINE sells much besides the eponymous subs is a tiny window sign in Persian script. There are only three Persian specialties but it’s the only Persian food in town, and it’s delicious — kabobs (served off the skewers) of fragrantly marinated chicken, koubbideh (ground beef) and steak, served with saffron-streaked basmati rice mixed, at table, with a mashed-up roasted tomato, butter and a sprinkling of sumac. 1395 Pembina Avenue, 204-452-2258.

The FORT GARRY HOTEL no longer offers its gargantuan $65 Sunday brunch, but its daily, all-you-can-eat buffet breakfasts are a wonderful alternative, served until 11 a.m. weekdays, noon on weekends. Everything is top-notch — eggs, however you want them (including Benedict), house-made pastries, house-cured meats, delicately smoked salmon — and, on Sundays, gravlax as well. At $21 ($15 for hotel guests) it’s still one of the classiest buys in town. 222 Broadway, 204-942-8251.

marion.warhaft@freepress.mb.ca