Cheers to 2019’s local drinks scene

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 14/12/2019 (2163 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The past few years have seen a number of developments in Manitoba’s drinks scene, particularly as it pertains to craft beer. And while there was certainly some moving and shaking on the beer scene this year, 2019 also had some news on the cider, spirits and mead fronts.

While the emergence of new breweries, brew pubs and contract brewers slowed down significantly in 2019 (compared to the past few years), this year wasn’t without a handful of new faces on the scene.

Sookram’s Brewing Co. opened in March on Warsaw Avenue near Confusion Corner, while Low Life Barrel House — an offshoot of Barn Hammer Brewing Co., which makes barrel-aged and more experimental brews — set up shop in Barn Hammer’s Wall Street location.

Meanwhile, a couple of contract brewers — La Shoppe Brewing Co., and the home-brewing suppliers at Grain to Glass — got product on shelves thanks to contract brewing arrangements at Torque Brewing Co.’s King Edward Street location.

Barring any big shakeups, there’s already looking to be a steady stream of beer-related updates brewing for 2020. Kenora-based Lake of the Woods Brewing Co. is nearly set to start brewing in Winnipeg at the recently opened Hargrave Street Market; test batches are slated to start in the next couple of weeks, with the ground-floor brewery and taproom (and seasonal patio) to open shortly thereafter. Kilter Brewing Co. continues to work on setting up its new space in St. Boniface on rue Deschambault. Brazen Hall Kitchen & Brewery is putting the finishing touches on a canning line at its Pembina Highway building. And the folks at Oxus Brewing Co. have an on-site taproom nearly complete on Sanford Street near Polo Park.

Beyond beer, 2019 saw some movement on the cider, mead and spirits scenes.

Winkler’s Dead Horse Cider Co. snuck into the market in late December 2018 with one offering, and this year expanded its line of ciders (as well as broadening availability). Another Manitoba producer that created a buzz was the Oak Bluff’s Bee Boyzz Honey, which has ventured into the mead market with a couple of products available at Liquor Marts and private wine stores as well as a few more for sale at its meadery and at farmers markets.

Other developments in the heart of Winnipeg raised the spirits of fans of the harder stuff. In March, Patent 5 Distillery opened the doors to its Alexander Avenue operation, showing off its taproom (which features reclaimed wood from the Oak Room eatery from the defunct St. Regis Hotel).

Its initial offerings were artisanal gin and vodka. Patent 5 has since introduced a couple of new products and continues to experiment with stellar cocktails in its space, located around the corner from the recently renovated and expanded Nonsuch Brewing Co.

Manitoba producers have reason to be optimistic about 2020. In this year’s provincial election, Premier Brian Pallister and the Progressive Conservative government pledged to eliminate markups on local craft beer, wine, cider and spirits sold where they are made, meaning producers will keep more money when selling from their shops or taprooms.

uncorked@mts.net

Twitter: @bensigurdson

 

Beers of the week

Stone Angel Brewing Co. Dirty Catfish Cream Ale (Winnipeg — $3.71/473ml cans, brewery and select beer vendors)

Made in conjunction with local Louisiana-inspired group the Dirty Catfish Brass Band and “designed with those hot ‘n’ sweaty venue nights in mind,” this cream ale is pale gold in colour and hazy, with a white head. It brings pale-malt, lemon-zest and subtle herbal notes on the nose. It’s light-bodied and dry, offering plenty of lemon and grapefruit notes with fresh malt, and a slightly creamier texture than you might expect from the flavour profile. It’s refreshing enough to enjoy at a sweaty rock show (especially at just 4.5 per cent alcohol), but brings enough depth for more serious beer drinkers to enjoy as well. ★★★

Half Pints Brewing Co. Hop Pun IPA (Winnipeg — $12.82/4x341ml bottles, brewery, Liquor Marts and select beer vendors)

Made with Australia and New Zealand hops, Half Pints’ Hop Pun returns once again, and is medium-gold in colour and slightly hazy. The hops bring fresh herbal and tropical-fruit notes as well as a resinous note, without much of the bitterness often associated with IPAs. On the light-plus bodied palate there’s plenty of almost-sweet malt and tropical-fruit notes to go with the resinous, herbal/pine flavours imparted by the hops — again managing to avoid the common bitter notes of many IPAs. It’s a robust, seven per cent alcohol ale that’s intense but still approachable. ★★★½

Little Brown Jug Brewing Co. Black Lager (Winnipeg — $3.65/473ml cans, brewery, select Liquor Marts and beer vendors soon)

Deep caramel in colour and with a rich, off-white head, Little Brown Jug’s latest seasonal offering brings rich roasted malt, dark chocolate, caramel and subtle herbal notes on the nose. Despite its dark colour and slightly sweeter aromas, on the medium-bodied, slightly creamy palate it’s mainly dry and quite refreshing, with roasted dark malt flavours that work well with the espresso, dark-chocolate, mocha and secondary herbal notes. It’s a fresh, compelling black lager that offers enough weight for cold winter nights — very well done. ★★★★½

Fort Garry Brewing Co. St. Nick’s Oaked Spiced Porter (Winnipeg — $3.79/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts and beer vendors)

Cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and oak chips have all made their way into this seasonal porter, which is dark brown in colour with a modest off-white head. There’s an uncooked-cinnamon-bun note that dominates aromatically, with secondary dark-malt and ginger-snap/molasses-cookie notes. On the light-plus bodied palate the carbonation is a little mild, and flavour-wise it’s not as sweet as one might expect, instead bringing sharper, slightly bitter notes that work against the spice and oak influence in a way that’s a bit disjointed before a short finish. ★★

Devil May Care Brewing Co. The Airing of Grievances Mulled Holiday Stout (Winnipeg — $4.25/473ml cans, brewery and select beer vendors)

For all your Festivus needs (search out clips from Seinfeld to get the beer’s reference), this stout is brewed with cranberry, orange and spices; it’s deep brown in colour with a rich beige head, and aromatically, the complex spice and fruit components work quite well with the dark-chocolate and roasted-malt notes. It’s mostly dry and medium-plus bodied, with deep dark malt/chocolate flavours as well as a black-licorice, almost-saline note that makes way for fresh, lively orange and cranberry notes. Offers feats of strength, yet at 5.5 per cent is deliciously well-balanced. ★★★★

Nonsuch Brewing Co. 2019 350 Orange Chocolate Belgian Rye Ale (Winnipeg — $15.00/750ml bottle, brewery, select Liquor Marts and beer vendors)

The second iteration of this vintage-dated beer, made in honour of the 17th-century explorers aboard the merchant ship Nonsuch, is iced-tea brown in colour. The 350 brings more dried fruit (cranberry, apricot) and yeast notes than proper orange aromas, although there’s a modest chocolate note in there. The 8.7 per cent alcohol brings a decided kick to the dried-fruit, orange-peel, yeast and modest malt notes. Definitely a slow-sipping fireside brew for toasting the holidays. ★★★½