A brewing controversy

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This article was published 16/10/2021 (1491 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

While sports and beer typically go together like milk and cookies, a recent announcement by the owner of a local pro sports teams has left Winnipeg craft-beer lovers with a bad taste in their mouths.

On Oct. 13, the True North Sports & Entertainment (TNSE) announced some updates to the concessions at Canada Life Centre, home of the Winnipeg Jets and big-name concerts. Among the changes was the introduction of a “Craft Beer Corner” to be located outside Section 127.

If you’re wondering which of the roughly two dozen local craft breweries, brew pubs and/or contract brewers will be featured there, it appears the answer is: none of them. The Craft Beer Corner will feature beers by Calgary’s Banded Peak Brewing and Vancouver’s Stanley Park Brewing.

Now, both Banded Peak and Stanley Park make some fine beers, some of which were recently featured in mystery boxes from the Flatlander’s Beer Festival. But calling the spot “Craft Beer Corner” is about as murky as a hazy IPA.

In late 2015, Labatt Breweries of Canada, a division of global drinks giant AB InBev, scooped up Stanley Park Brewing from Mark Anthony Group, owners of Mission Hill Estate Winery and the Mike’s Hard and White Claw brands, among others. Then in early 2020, Labatt purchased Banded Peak. And the Bud, Bud Light, Alexander Keith’s and Stella Artois also available at Canada Life Centre? Not coincidentally, they’re all also owned by AB InBev.

Do Banded Peak and Stanley Park make beers in similar styles as many other craft breweries, including Manitoba’s contingent? Yes. But is a brewery that’s owned by a drinks giant still “craft”? That’s where things get dicey.

There’s almost certainly some sort of exclusivity contract between TNSE and AB InBev that prevents local craft beer (read: non-AB InBev beer) to be poured at Canada Life Centre. For now.

Macro and craft beers can co-exist in sporting facilities, as has been proven many times over in venues throughout North America — including right here in Winnipeg. In 2018, the Winnipeg Goldeyes introduced their own Craft Beer Corner, which features a rotating selection of locals as well as Labatt brews. And this past June, the Winnipeg Football Club brought in local brews from Brazen Hall and Trans Canada Brewing Co. while continuing to pump plenty of Molson Coors brews into fans’ disposable cups at Winnipeg Blue Bombers and Valour FC games.

True North has been (admirably) vocal in urging organizations to bring their employees back downtown to help support struggling nearby businesses. Here’s hoping when the current drinks contract expires at Canada Life Centre, they pick up the phone to some of the province’s local brewers and do the same.

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Those attending Jets games or concerts at Canada Life Centre will have a new nearby local option for craft beer next year.

On Oct. 15, Devil May Care Brewing Co. announced it had signed a lease for a downtown space at 155 Fort St., with the hopes of opening the doors in spring 2022.

Devil May Care started out brewing in Stone Angel’s Pembina Highway facility back in 2018, before moving operations to Torque Brewing Co. on King Edward St., where the company will presumably continue to brew until it opens its doors. Regular offerings include its (very good) flagship Starstuff American Pale Ale, the Nothin’ But the Hops “mixtape series” of ales, as well as a range of seasonals.

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On Thursday, Oct. 21, Torque will play host to the Toronto-based Society of Beer Drinking Ladies as they launch their collaborative Whoa Nellie beer, an amber ale infused with Manitoba rooibos tea from Cornelia Bean. Tickets for the event, taking place at Torque’s facility at 830 King Edward St., are $25 and include a 16-ounce pour of the beer, a poster, miscellaneous swag and more. For tickets and more info see wfp.to/nellie.

uncorked@mts.net

Twitter: @bensigurdson

 

Beers of the week

Bookstore Brewing Co. Escape From Narrow City IPA (Winnipeg — $3.95/473ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts, select beer vendors)

Inspired by old pulp sci-fi novels, Bookstore’s second release is medium gold and clear, and brings aromas of fresh malt, resinous hops and biscuits. At just 4.8 per cent, think of it as a session IPA (here dubbed an “easy IPA”); it doesn’t have the heat or length of bigger IPAs, but still delivers fresh malt and hoppy notes. A solid outing; contract brewed at Oxus. 3/5

Interlake Brewing Co. Hoppy Pelican Dry Hopped Pale Ale (Winnipeg — $3.99/473ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts, select beer vendors)

Interlake’s sophomore outing was also brewed at Oxus, as will likely be the case until its Gimli facility is up and running. Pale gold and clear, there’s a lovely floral note that comes with fresh malt, pear and subtle lemon aromas. The bright hoppy notes accentuate the citrus on the palate, with underlying malty, doughy flavours adding body. Finishes at five per cent alcohol. Very tasty. 3.5/5

Stone Angel Brewing Co. Roter Hase Rotbier (Winnipeg — $3.99/473ml can, brewery, select beer vendors)

Medium copper in colour and clear with a pale beige head, this German-style red beer offers rich, malty aromas as well as hints of brown sugar and dried fruit. It’s medium-bodied and robust, with those deep malty notes showing well with the subtle dried fruit on the off-dry palate. Underlying hop notes offer the slightest hint of bitterness before the modest 4.5 per cent alcohol finish. A fab fall brew. 4/5

Little Brown Jug Dubbel (Winnipeg — $4.24/473ml can, brewery, select vendors)

After a summer of hefeweizen and pilsner, Little Brown Jug has gone full-throttle fall with this abbey-style ale. It’s deep copper in colour and clear, offering big raisin and toffee aromas that come with hints of molasses and baking spices. It’s rich, robust and medium-sweet, with intense dried fruit and caramel notes, secondary biscuit and clove notes and a long, 7.2 per cent finish. One of LBJ’s boldest and best brews yet. 4.5/5

Sookram’s Brewing Co. As You Wish Buttercup (Winnipeg — $4.19/473ml can, brewery, select beer vendors)

This salted chocolate caramel porter is deep cola brown in colour, while the dessert-ish ingredients are subtle aromatically — just a hint of caramel and cocoa to go with the roasted malt notes. On the full-bodied, slightly creamy palate (from the addition of milk sugar) there’s some sweetness that’s offset by bright bitterness, chocolate-covered coffee-bean notes and a finish that, at five per cent alcohol, doesn’t get too hot. 3.5/5

Nonsuch Baltic Porter (Winnipeg — $4/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, select beer vendors)

Even darker than the Sookram’s, Nonsuch’s porter brings a compelling peppery note on the nose that works well with the espresso and dark chocolate aromas. It’s medium-plus-bodied and just barely off-dry, with roasted coffee and dark chocolate flavours accentuating that quick hit of hoppy bitterness before the long, peppery finish (it’s 6.5 per cent alcohol). Great stuff here. 4.5/5