Come alive with local brews in the dead of winter
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Whether you’re planning to brave the deep freeze to take in the last weekend of Festival du Voyageur in person or prefer to crack a cold one in the warm confines of your own home, there are a few brews that will get you in the hé-ho spirit to be enjoyed in either setting.
The Nonsuch Brewing Co. Festi Broue Lager (Winnipeg — $3.30/355ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) is the de facto official beer of Festival du Voyageur; it’s pale straw in colour and clear in appearance and offers bread dough, cracked wheat and malt notes aromatically. On the dry and light-bodied palate it’s crisp and fresh, bringing much the same flavour-wise, with a light splash of citrus. There’s very little in the way of hops, while the manageable five per cent alcohol makes it an ideal brew for sipping while watching bands at Fort Gibraltar, washing down some poutine or for post-snow shoveling enjoyment. 3.5/5
Add a little spice to your Festival fun with the Brazen Brewing Co. Ballsy Bastard Saison (Winnipeg — $4.20/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors). Made in honour of Francophone Manitoban Georges Forest, this brew is bright copper in colour and slightly hazy, made with two types of hops, rye, spelt and more. It brings deep malty and tropical fruit aromas, with underlying spice and grains that show well. Dry and light-plus bodied, the richer malt and tropical notes work well with the dash of bitterness, the subtle herbal notes and the lingering spice components before the moderate finish (it’s five per cent alcohol). Available onsite at Festival du Voyageur for those looking for a beer with slightly more depth of flavour. 4/5
As the only craft brewery currently operating in St. Boniface, it makes plenty of sense that Kilter would do up a brew inspired by voyageur-era sugar shacks — introducing the Kilter Brewing Co. Cabane à Sucre Maple Brown Ale (Winnipeg — $4.60/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors). It’s deep chestnut in colour and on the nose brings a dollop of maple, with underlying Tootsie Roll and dark malt notes showing nicely. There’s a touch of sweetness on the medium-bodied palate, with the maple, Tootsie Roll and caramel/malty flavours working well with the modest hops and the six per cent alcohol. Enjoy at Festival du Voyageur, on tap at The Common at The Forks Market or around the fire in your backyard. 4/5
Beyond Festival du Voyageur-inspired brews, there are some other new releases with connections to arts and culture to enjoy. Sticking with the (chilly) outdoors, the One Great City Snow Maize Saskatoon Berry Cream Ale (Winnipeg — $4.29/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) was brewed in conjunction with the folks at A Maze in Corn. The Snow Maize features corn and saskatoon berries in the mash; it’s pinkish gold in appearance and mostly clear, while aromatically the corn and malt notes dominate, with subtle berry notes in the background and little in the way of a hoppy presence. It’s medium-bodied and slightly off-dry, with the berry flavours showing more prominently on the flavour profile along with secondary corn and wheat notes, almost no bitterness and five per cent alcohol. A fun beer that’s also available at A Maze in Corn’s snow bar. 3/5
The Torque Brewing Co. Beer.Is.Art. Saison (Winnipeg — $5.00/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) is brewed with grains of paradise, African Queen hops and French saison yeast. It’s pale straw in colour and clear, with aromas of fresh malt, spice, subtle herbal and grassy notes and a touch of citrus. Dry and light-bodied, the spice shows well with the bright malty flavours, low to moderate bitterness and a crisp, clean finish (it’s five per cent alcohol). A portion of proceeds go to the Beer.Is.Art campaign — for more see wfp.to/beerisart. 3/5
Medium straw in colour and clear, the Sookram’s Brewing Co. Aria Italian Pilsner (Winnipeg — $4.29/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) was brewed in celebration of Manitoba Opera’s 50th anniversary, and features two types of hops as well as a dry hop addition. There’s plenty of fresh malt on the nose as well as lovely floral and cracked wheat notes plus some subtle herbal/grassy and red apple notes. Light-bodied, dry and crisp, it brings all the above flavours with modest bitterness and five per cent alcohol — all in all a lively package that, like a great piece of opera, is both endlessly enjoyable but with impressive complexity. Very nicely done. 4.5/5
uncorked@mts.net
Twitter: @bensigurdson

Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson edits the Free Press books section, and also writes about wine, beer and spirits.