Hey, hey rosé

Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 22/07/2023 (777 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Hello — you have reached the office (read: weekly drinks column) of Ben Sigurdson. I’m unable to delve into detail on any particular drinks-related topic right now, as I’m currently up to my eyeballs in reviewing Winnipeg Fringe Theatre Festival shows with the rest of the Free Press arts and life crew.

Yes, this will mean sipping the occasional beer at the Old Market Square beer garden. But only occasionally — frustratingly, they only offer Sleeman beers, rather than local craft brews like most other fests in the province. Thankfully there are many tastier options nearby.

In the meantime, here are a half-dozen rosé wines I’ve tried over the last few months — dry, off-dry, still and sparkling — for your summer enjoyment.

U Mes U NV Cygnus Giennah Brut Rosé Organic (Cava, Spain — around $24, private wine stores)

Made from a blend of Grenache and Pinot Noir, this organic bubbly is pale pink in colour, bringing strawberry and herbal notes as well as chalky, bread dough and lemon zest elements on the nose. It’s dry, light-bodied and racy, with the chalky note working well with the citrus zest flavours to bring zip and texture while the ripe red berry notes add some depth and almost the slightest hint of sweetness. Fresh and delicious on its own, although it would do well in a French 75 or mimosa. Available at Ellement Wine + Spirits. 4/5

Caves d’Esclan 2021 The Pale Rosé by Sacha Lichine (Vin de Pays du Var, France — $21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

From the Provençal region of Var comes this pale pink rosé, made by the same folks who make Whispering Angel — consider this wine its fun younger sibling. Made predominantly from Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah grapes, it offers lovely peach, tangerine, floral and strawberry candy notes aromatically. It’s a mainly dry, light-bodied rosé, bringing cherry, strawberry and peach flavours, a hint of raspberry candy, light acidity and a crisp, clean finish. A refreshing fun rosé in an attractive package to boot. 3.5/5

La Vieille Ferme 2021 Rosé (Ventoux, France — $14.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

A Cinsault-Grenache-Syrah blend from the southern Rhône Valley, this rosé is pale pink in colour, offering fresh strawberry, peach and floral notes on the nose. It’s light-bodied and dry, with the simple but fresh red berry and stone fruit flavours offering plenty of ripeness, with a splash of acidity keeping things lively. Like all the La Vieille Ferme wines, always a solid pick for the price. 3/5

Bodegas Arrayán 2021 Rosado (Méntrida Toledo, Spain — around $24, private wine stores)

An organic blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha, this Spanish rosé is deep orange-pink in colour, offering cherry compote, strawberry, floral and peach candy aromas. It’s bone-dry and light-plus bodied on the palate, although the ripe red berry, peach and orange notes offer some fruit sweetness that balances the modest acidity pretty well. Nice on its own or serve with salmon, richer fish dishes, pork tenderloin or quiche. Available at The Pourium and Kenaston Wine Market. 4/5

Amore Mio 2019 Rosato (Puglia, Italy — $9.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Made from the Negroamaro grape, this Italian rosé is one of the Liquor Marts’ “hot buys” for late July (it regularly retails for $16.99). Pale orange-ish gold in colour, aromatically it mainly brings strawberry candy, a whiff of peach and a dash of floral notes. It’s light-bodied and slightly off-dry, with simple (fading, perhaps) strawberry and peach candy flavours and low acidity. This is an older vintage for a rosé, which isn’t doing it any favours (likely why it’s being blown out), and buyer beware — some of the bottles out there are from the even older 2018 vintage. 2.5/5

Wayne Gretzky 2021 Founders Series Rosé (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $16.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Made mainly from Cabernet Franc grapes, this pale salmon-orange rosé brings a lovely fruit salad of peach, fresh strawberry, raspberry and cherry, with subtle watermelon and floral notes in there as well. It’s light-plus bodied and dry, with plenty of zippy acidity coming with all those red fruit notes, although there’s a slightly bitter note to the too-warm finish (it’s 14 per cent alcohol — high for a rosé). Still, it’s tasty on its own and could easily grapple with some grilled seafood/chicken/haloumi or tart and tangy salads. Currently on sale (it’s regularly $18.99). 3.5/5

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