Fall into heartier, fuller flavours

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This article was published 23/09/2023 (1104 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

A scorching hot summer day practically begs for a crisp, light and refreshing wine — say, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Italian Pinot Grigio, Portuguese Vinho Verde or pale, delicate rosé.

But fall’s officially here, and with the shorter days and cooler nights, over here at Uncorked HQ, there’s a general shift from wines that are fun and fresh to those that bring heartier, fuller flavours.

One needn’t give up entirely on rosé in the fall — rather, look for deeper-coloured pink wines, which tend to bring more intensity and depth of flavour than, say, a very pale rosé from France’s Provence region. Many rosés from New World countries (think Chile, Argentina, California, Canada or New Zealand) fit the bill here nicely.

Fall is also the perfect time of year to explore richer, more complex white wines than your standard summer fare. The deep, tropical fruit flavours of a Viognier, rich barrel-aged Chardonnay from New World countries, Alsatian Gewüztraminer or Riesling, Austrian Grüner Veltliner and the like all excel in autumn and also happen to be ideal for Thanksgiving dinner.

As for red wines, the options are plentiful and should please almost any palate. Those who like light-bodied reds have a plethora of Pinot Noirs to choose from; French Pinot tends to bring earthier notes, while New World examples emphasize the fruit.

Rustic reds from Old World countries are also ideal for fall — think grippy Spanish Rioja, Italian Barbera or Valpolicella ripasso, Portuguese reds, big Bordeaux blends and beyond.

If you like your wines full-bodied but aren’t crazy about earthier, rustic notes, no problem. Oak-aged Argentine Malbec, California Zinfandel, Spanish Grenache or Mourvèdre, Rhône Valley blends and the like tend to be full and fruit-driven, and are ideal for cooler nights and work with heartier fare.

Wines of the week

Siren’s Call 2019 Viognier (Okanagan Valley, B.C. – $36.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

The grapes for this organically farmed Viognier are sourced from a single vineyard in the Naramata region of the Okanagan Valley; aromatically the Siren’s Call brings ripe peach and dried apricot notes, with hints of spice, honeycomb and fresh-cut flowers that are attractive.

It’s a medium-bodied, viscous white that delivers big stone fruit and secondary tropical fruit notes with modest acidity, subtle baked apple note toasted nut notes and a medium-length finish (it’s 13.3 per cent alcohol).

While there’s better-value Viognier to be found out there, this example brings good weight, texture and complexity; drink now on its own or with cheese plates, modestly spicy curries or sushi. 3.5/5

Flat Top Hills 2021 Pinot Noir (California – $21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This fourth-generation Mondavi winery’s Pinot Noir is sourced from a number of different regions in California; aromatically this lighter red brings fresh-cut violet, cherry, earth and raspberry notes.

It’s light-plus bodied and dry, with ripe and zippy red berry and cherry flavours that come with modest acidity, subtle earth and spice components and a slightly warm finish (it’s 14.5 per cent alcohol).

It brings decent complexity with fruit-driven flavours as well or better than many California Pinots at this price point; try with pork tenderloin, salmon or mushroom risotto. 3.5/5

Lapis Luna 2020 Zinfandel (California – around $26-31, private wine stores)

An 80-20 blend of Zinfandel and Sangiovese, this California red is sourced from the North Coast region and offers aromas of blackberry, cherry, blueberry, cedar and plum.

It’s ripe and full-bodied, chock full of raisined red and dark berry flavours, with secondary cedar, vanilla and spice from 10 months in oak barrels. Tannins are modest while flavours linger on the long, very warm (14.9 per cent alcohol) finish.

Try with pizza, burgers or ribs. Available at Calabria Market, Kenaston Wine Market and G.J. Andrews. 4/5

Castello del Poggio 2016 Barbera d’Asti (Asti, Italy – $19.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Despite its older vintage, this Italian red made from the Barbera grape is still fairly bright purple in colour, with attractive earthy and meaty aromas that show well with red licorice, plum and raspberry notes.

It’s a dry, medium-plus bodied and rustic red, with zippy acidity and medium tannins working well with the tart red berry and plum flavours, while there’s hints of spice and lacquer from barrel aging just before the medium-length finish.

Try with hearty stews, sharp or stinky cheeses and charcuterie. 3.5/5

Gouleyant 2020 Malbec de Cahors (Cahors, France – around $23, private wine stores)

An 85-15 blend of Malbec and Merlot from the Cahors region in southwest France, the Gouleyant (which means “easy to drink”) brings blackberry, lacquer, plum, earth and black tea notes on the nose.

It’s full-bodied and dry, delivering the dark berry and plum notes with grippy, peppery tannins, black tea and white pepper flavours and a well-balanced, 13.5 per cent alcohol on the finish.

It’s rustic and decidedly Old World, and would work very well with grilled meats, sharp cheeses or generally spicier dishes. Available at The Pourium and The Winehouse. 4/5

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