Six-plus reasons to drink patriotically this long weekend

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This article was published 28/06/2024 (815 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

There’s never been a more important time to be supporting Canadian producers of wine, beer or spirits — locally and otherwise.

While Canadian wineries continue to produce reds, whites, bubblies, rosés and dessert wines (icewine and otherwise) that can stand up to many of the world’s best, the industry is looking anything but rosy.

Wildfires and bouts of extreme cold in recent years in the Okanagan Valley, for example, have seen vines killed or damaged, wines affected by smoke and a reduction in wine tourism.

Inflation has seen wine lovers change their drinking and spending habits, and a move towards low/no-alcohol alternatives has left some producers scratching their heads and scrambling to respond. More than a few Canadian wineries have closed, others have sold and many more are on the market, either officially or otherwise.

Local drinks producers have also felt the pinch. Reacting to changes in the market, many brewers have scaled back their slate of new releases, while some core beers and seasonal staples are being made in smaller batches.

This year’s rainy spring and summer have seen patio sales dry up. And while Stone Angel Brewing Co., which shut its doors in March, has been the only producer to close in recent times, if things don’t improve overall it’s possible more could follow — sooner or later.

All of which can distract from the high quality of what is being produced both within the province and across the country. At the All Canadian Wine Championships held earlier this year, for example, Shrugging Doctor Beverage Company’s apple cinnamon mead won a gold medal and the mead of the year trophy.

Manitoba brewers picked up seven gold medals at this year’s Canadian Brewing Awards and came out on top in the inter-provincial beer battle with Saskatchewan at the recent Prairie Beer Awards.

Canadian producers are also making a splash on the global scene. At this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards, one of the world’s biggest and high-profile wine competitions, B.C. and Ontario producers combined for two platinum medals and 14 golds.

Unlike in previous years, the praise wasn’t just for our world-famous icewines — sparkling wine, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and big red blends were all among the wine grapes and styles that brought home the competition’s top hardware.

All of which is to say that the Canada Day long weekend is as good a time as any to support producers from our own backyard.

uncorked@mts.net

@bensigurdson

 

Drinks of the week

Fort Garry Brewing Co. Angry Fish Pilsner (Winnipeg — $4.49/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts, Goldeyes games)

Medium gold in colour and clear, the return of Fort Garry’s Goldeyes brew offers upfront apple, almost-sweet malt, pear and subtle floral notes. It’s mainly dry and medium-bodied, with a toasted nut note coming with red apple, sweet-ish malt, a touch of grassiness, no bitterness and a relatively short finish (it’s five per cent alcohol). Not a major-league home run, but absolutely fine for quaffing while watching the local team. 2.5/5

Trans Canada Brewing Co. Bomber Beer (Winnipeg — $3.94/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts, Bomber games)

Pale gold in colour and clear, this ale offers up-front biscuit and malt notes aromatically, with a hint of grassiness but no perceptible bitterness. It’s a dry, crisp and crushable ale, with upfront bready, malty notes, secondary toasted oat and red apple notes, very little in the way of hoppiness and a crisp, toasty finish (and 5.1 per cent alcohol). Unlike the boring big-brand brews available at most sporting events (and, sadly, unlike the home team), this one’s a winner. 3.5/5

Dastardly Villain Brewing Co. A Necessary Evil IPA (Winnipeg — $4.60/473ml cans, Oxus Brewing Co., beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Featuring Chinook, Centennial, Amarillo and Strata hops, Dastardly Villain’s IPA is medium gold in colour and clear, with resinous pine notes coming with grapefruit, fresh malt and grassy notes. It’s dry and light-plus bodied, leading with resinous but not-too-bitter hoppy pine, resin, citrus rind and grassy flavours, a bright underlying malty note and a medium-length finish (it’s 6.3 per cent alcohol). Features great can art courtesy of GMB Chomichuk, who gets 10 cents from every can sold. Brewed at Oxus Brewing. 4/5

Benjamin Bridge 2022 Wild Rock White (Nova Scotia — around $27, private wine stores)

A blend of mainly Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the 2022 vintage as well as juice from previous vintages compiled in what is called the solera method, the Wild Rock White is pale straw in colour and aromatically brings green apple, herbal, lime, white pepper and gooseberry notes. It’s dry and light-plus bodied, with the older solera juice adding richness and texture to the core flavours of green apple, lemon-lime, gooseberry, tropical fruit and grassy notes before the vibrant acidity and modest 12 per cent finish kick in. A lively and complex white; available at the Pourium, Kenaston Wine Market and the Winehouse, if my research proves correct. 4/5

Gray Monk 2022 Pinot Gris (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $22.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Pale gold in colour, there’s a lovely nectarine note front and centre aromatically that comes with notes of fresh-cut flowers, pear, honeycomb and ripe melon. It’s medium-bodied, slightly viscous and mainly dry, with just a hint of ripe sweetness to the nectarine, orange and melon flavours that accentuates the richness. The acidity is low and, at 13.4 per cent alcohol, the finish offers a lingering, honeyed component. This ain’t your light-bodied, simple Italian Pinot Grigio — rather, it’s a stylish, rich example of the grape made more in a style typically found coming from France’s Alsace region. 4/5

Wayne Gretzky Estates 2022 Cabernet Franc Syrah (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $ 17.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

Pale cherry in colour, the cassis, black cherry, plum and secondary bell pepper, iron and earth notes show well on this Okaganan red. It’s dry and medium-bodied, leading with up-front red berry and cherry flavours, supported by white pepper, earth and mocha notes, a hint of bell pepper, light tannins that come with moderate acidity and a not-too-lengthy finish (it’s a modest 12.9 per cent alcohol). If there’s oak barrel aging here, it’s subtle. Serve this juicy red with a slight chill and enjoy — especially while it’s on sale (it’s back to the regular price of $19.99 after June 30). 4/5