Deep freeze calls for more warming local beers

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 15/02/2025 (296 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

With all the new and returning local beers regularly hitting store shelves and taps, I typically try and taste through some brews once a month.

I checked the Free Press website to see when I last did a local beer roundup, and found it was on Jan. 18. The headline for that collection of reviews: Get through deep freeze with hearty local brews.

Here we are, a month later, with new slate of beers tasted and with the thermometer still stuck well below zero. That Jan. 18 headline could just as easily be used here again.

From deep amber brews to hearty stouts, here are your latest cold-weather brews — pray we can move on to spring-ish beers and warmer temps by mid-March…

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One Great City Brewing Co. Olde Mill Pilz (Winnipeg — $3.95/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

This pilsner pays tribute to Cuthbert Grant and Grant’s Old Mill in St. James, and is brewed “with the same robust grains and hops once cultivated by the farming pioneers of the Assiniboine and Red River Valley.” It’s medium gold and clear in appearance, and aromatically brings fresh malt, cracked oat, bread dough and subtle herbal notes. It’s dry and light-plus-bodied, offering fresh malt and oat notes along with very subtle hops (it’s 30 IBU), red apple and caramel undertones and, at 5.25 per cent alcohol, a modest finish. 3.5/5

Obsolete Brewing Co. Game Over: Genesis WCIPA (Dauphin — $4.55/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Named after the Sega gaming console of days gone by, the Genesis is a West Coast-style IPA featuring Strata and Sabro hops. It’s pale gold and hazy in appearance with a white head, and on the nose offers loads of ripe tropical fruit (mango, papaya and pineapple) as well as grassy, resinous notes from the hops. It’s dry and medium-bodied, with that resinous, herbal oil note working well with the ripe tropical flavours (particularly pineapple), some sharp hoppiness (it’s 51 IBU) and a long, warm finish at seven per cent alcohol. Whether you’re a retro gamer or not, don’t pass this one up. 4.5/5

Kilter Brewing Co. Raw Amber Lager (Winnipeg — $4.09/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors)

Bright amber (obviously) in colour, this lager was made in collaboration with Raw: Almond, and features Manitoba malt from Scythe Malting Co. Aromatically it offers deep malt, caramel, grain and subtle brown sugar notes, while on the palate it’s medium-bodied and dry, with flavours led by the fresh malt and caramel notes. There’s virtually no bitterness and, at five per cent alcohol, the finish doesn’t overwhelm. A nice heartier lager for cooler temps. 3.5/5

Heritage Farms Brewing Co. Hired Hand Brown Ale (Winkler/Winnipeg — $3.99/473ml can, One Great City, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Deep caramel in colour with an off-white head, this brown ale (made at Winnipeg’s One Great City Brewing Co., for now) brings toasted malt, toffee, underlying oat and secondary dried fruit aromas. It’s medium-bodied and mainly dry, with toasty malt and toffee flavours, soft effervescence and a slightly creamy texture, with virtually no bitterness and a modest five per cent alcohol finish. 3/5

Barn Hammer Brewing Co. Grandpa’s Sweater Oatmeal Stout (Winnipeg — $3.99/473ml can, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

Deep coffee brown in appearance with a beige head, Barn Hammer’s stalwart stout continues to impress, bringing lovely toasted oat, dark malt and secondary dark chocolate and espresso notes aromatically. It’s dry and medium-bodied, with those espresso and dark chocolate notes showing well with the oat and toasty malt notes, moderate bitterness and, at 5.4 per cent alcohol, a medium-length finish. Still a solid winter warmer. 4/5

Little Brown Jug Tropical Stout (Winnipeg — $4.49/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

This “dark rum-like stout” is inky espresso in appearance, and on the nose brings dried fruit/raisin, dark roasted malt, a subtle woody note as well as hints of mocha. It’s full-bodied and slightly off-dry, with roasted malt and espresso bean coming with vanilla, spice and dried tropical fruit flavours. There’s some modest, lingering bitterness before the punchy 7.5 per cent alcohol takes charge on the long, warm finish. Close your eyes, picture the beach and ride out the deep freeze with this robust stout. 4.5/5

uncorked@mts.net

@bensigurdson