Versatile Rioja shines as the king of Spanish reds

As wine-producing countries go, Spain is among the most storied and revered. Cava from Catalunya in the east continues to be among the best-value sparkling wine, Castilla Y León in the west makes well-priced and compelling whites and reds, and sherry producers in the southern Jerez region are crafting some of the best under-the-radar fortified wines, both dry and sweet.

But when it comes to red wines, one northern Spanish region in the north rules them all — Rioja.

Located in central northern Spain, some 400 kilometres west of Barcelona, Rioja reds are well priced for what they deliver, bringing a range of rustic flavours (dependent largely on how long they’re aged before release), with the common thread among most being the Tempranillo grape variety.

Tempranillo is planted widely throughout Spain and Portugal (where it’s known as Tinta Roriz or Aragonéz), and while most Riojas aren’t made exclusively made from the variety, most reds from the region are largely based on the early-ripening red grape.

Tempranillo tends to bring a decent amount of acidity and tannins with the typical bright red berry/cherry notes and secondary herbal flavours. Grapes in Rioja typically enjoy plenty of sunshine throughout the growing season, thanks to nearby mountain ranges blocking cloud cover from rolling into the Rioja Valley. It’s also a grape that does well with barrel aging, which is a defining factor in Rioja reds.

The Rioja wine region has a classification system called Denominación de Origen Calificada (D.O.Ca), whereby red wines aged in barrel and bottle for different lengths of time fall into different categories. Wines are labelled as Rioja, with the specific classification typically listed on the front label.

Entry-level Rioja may see little or no oak and bottle aging before release, and is the least expensive and the simplest, fruitiest of the reds. It’s just called Rioja.

The next level up is Crianza, whereby a wine has been aged at the winery for a minimum of two years — at least one year of which is in 225-litre oak barrels — before release. Reserva is one step higher yet, with a wine aged for a minimum of three years (with at least one year in barrels) before release, while the top tier, Gran Reserva, spends five years aging (with a minimum two years in barrels) before release. In many cases, the Reservas and Gran Reservas we see on shelves have spent even longer aging than the required minimum.

Expect some Crianzas to offer modest oak influence, while Reservas and especially Gran Reservas bring more body, as well as pronounced spice, lacquer and tannic notes from barrel influence. While all can be drunk upon release, some wines in the latter two categories, particularly the Gran Reservas, can easily be set aside and enjoyed years down the road.

Rioja does produce some excellent white wines as well, based on the Viura grape variety, and there are some delicious rosés being produced in the region. However, production in both categories is dwarfed by Rioja’s red output. Check private wine stores for white and rosé wines from the region.

When it comes to food pairing, Reservas and Gran Reservas do well with steak and grilled meats, which can help tame the grippy tannins in the wine, while Crianzas would do well with slightly spicier fare. The acidity found in the Tempranillo grape variety means Riojas also tend to go well with tangy tomato-based sauces, and can cut through fattier or richer dishes.

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Wines of the week

Bodegas Medrano 2023 Choza Rosado (Rioja, Spain — around $18, Jones & Company Wine Merchants)

An 80-20 blend of the red Garnacha and the white Viura (a.k.a. Macabeo) grape varieties, this rosé is deeper pink in colour, offering fresh watermelon, raspberry, pear and subtle chalky and leafy notes aromatically. It’s dry, medium-bodied and slightly viscous, with ripe raspberry and strawberry flavours, as well as secondary watermelon, ripe orange and peach notes, moderate acidity and a medium-length finish. Offers more intensity and depth of flavour than many comparable rosés. Available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants. 4/5

Bodegas Manzanos 2019 Castillo de Logroño Crianza (Rioja, Spain — $20.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This red blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano grapes is black cherry red in colour, with lovely raspberry, blackberry, plum, chalky and white pepper aromas. It’s medium-plus-bodied and dry, with bright blackberry and raspberry flavours, secondary cocoa, herbal, vanilla and white pepper notes, medium tannins and acidity that balance each other nicely and, at 13.5 per cent alcohol, a medium-length finish. The 12 months in oak barrels, half French and half American, adds complexity without impeding the fruit flavour-wise. Drink this delicious red now or hold for 2-4 years. 4/5

Bodegas Ramõn Bilbao 2018 Reserva (Rioja, Spain — $24.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This Rioja red is 90 per cent Tempranillo, with the balance split between Graciano and Mazuelo, with the bulk of the vines over 40 years old. It’s deep garnet in colour and aromatically offers wet earth, plum, raspberry, blackberry, violet and cherry notes. It’s full-bodied, chewy and dry, with great depth of dark and red berries, hints of lacquer, spice and vanilla (from 20 months in American oak barrels), dashes of cocoa and white pepper, medium-grippy tannins and, at 14 per cent alcohol, a long and warm finish. This deep, complex red is drinking great now, but could be revisited in 3-5 years. Elegant, rustic and well-structured. 4.5/5