Protein snacks sampled

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This article was published 09/02/2019 (2724 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

With the increasing popularity of high-protein, low-sugar/carb diets, the demand for snacks that fit the bill for folks following keto, paleo or Whole30 has never been higher. This week, we try out a couple of new additions to the Canadian market.

The products: Epic Provisions protein meat bars; Duke’s Smoked Shorty Sausages.

Epic’s products are designed specifically for the paleo diet — which emphasizes healthy animal fats, protein and leafy vegetables — by founders Katie Forrest and Taylor Collins. The married former vegans now focus on organic, grass-fed animals sourced from ranchers who are committed to holistic land management (the company was purchased by General Mills in 2016 for a rumoured US$100 million).

The protein meat bars — we sampled sesame-BBQ seasoned chicken and beef apple bacon — are about 130 calories for a 43-gram bar, and contain 10 to 12 grams of protein, with no added sugar. The suggested retail price is $3.99, but we found them on sale for under $2 at Superstore.

Duke’s small-batch dried pork sausages look like conventional pepperoni sticks, but they are free of added nitrates, MSG and liquid smoke; they have about 120 calories per serving (two sausages) and contain seven grams of protein and two grams or less of sugar (although they do contain cane sugar). They retail for $6.99 for a 113-gram bag. We tried the original recipe, hot & spicy, Hatch green chile, and hickory peach BBQ.

Duke’s was also recently purchased by a major packaged-food company; Conagra, which makes Slim Jim and Chef Boyardee, bought the upstart manufacturer in 2017.

First-rate features: Specialized diets aside, for those who prefer savoury snacks to sugary ones, it’s always nice to have healthier options. Both products have admirable lists of natural ingredients and avoid common allergens such as nuts, soy or gluten.

From the Duke’s lineup, the chile variety stands out — the unique smoky-sweet tang of the peppers grown in New Mexico’s Hatch Valley is addictive — and the hickory peach is uniquely delicious. They feel like you’re eating real meat, not mechanically separated scraps, and the flavours have an appealing natural quality.

The chicken Epic bar is an odd duck. Initially it’s just strange — is that raisin? Why, yes it is — and it’s too mushy. But the sesame seasoning (more teriyaki-like than barbecue) hits some kind of craving nerve centre.

Failures: Duke’s original is just not as tasty as a regular pepperoni stick (seems those nitrates and MSG are in there for a reason). Though the textures and tastes are definitely more “natural” than other pork products on the market, sometimes you’re craving that weird, greasy fix that only a Hot Rod can provide.

The Epic bars are softer than their jerky-like appearance would suggest — and that’s not a good thing. You want them to have a little give when you bite into them. The mealy texture and sweetish smell of the beef variety is totally off-putting; it’s hard to escape a certain dog-food vibe. In general, they feel aggressively and calculatedly “good for you” instead of tasty — snack food should not be so virtuous.

The sodium levels in the Epic bars are off the charts: 670 milligrams in the chicken (28 per cent of the RDA). Duke’s sausages have slightly less (the peach and Hatch pepper varieties are the lowest), though still relatively high.

Buy or bye-bye?: Whether you enjoy the chicken Epic bar will be down to your tolerance for the texture, but the beef is a big no. However, there are several other flavours/protein combos that sound intriguing — at the price, you can probably afford to try some out.

For fans of jerky or pepperoni who are trying to steer clear of the carcinogens they contain, Duke’s are an excellent option, hitting that meaty sweet spot.

jill.wilson@freepress.mb.ca

Twitter: @dedaumier