Wall niche turns dead space into display area

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 10/02/2002 (8734 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The project we are about to detail is so simple you might decide to go into business for yourself.

We’re talking about the installation of a prefabricated wall niche. They are not only attractive but also allow you to utilize dead space in a wall for a display platform for flowers, art, sculptures, statuary, religious items and more.

Most wall niches are made to fit in the empty space that exists between wall studs. The empty area (or wall cavity) between any two studs is known as the bay or stud bay. This cavity between floor or ceiling joist would be known as the joist bay and between rafters — you guessed it — the rafter bay.

Wall studs normally are spaced at either 16 or 24 inches on centre. If the spacing is 16 inches, the stud-bay clearance (distance between studs) will be 14 1/2 inches. If the studs are spaced at 24 inches, the distance, stud-to-stud, will be 22 1/2 inches. Yes, you can install a niche made for a smaller 14 1/2-inch bay into a larger 22 1/2-inch bay, but you will have to do a little framing that could turn the project into a weekend of work.

Keep in mind that not all stud bays are empty. They can contain electrical wiring, plumbing pipes and vents, to name a few things. Also, keep in mind that a wall has two sides and you will want to study both of them before cutting. Why look on the other side? By surveying its surface you often can tell what’s inside. A wall switch or receptacle is a dead giveaway that electric wiring is nearby. An intersecting wall on the opposite side guarantees that the chosen stud bay is not empty. Such a configuration requires the wall being intersected to have partition framing. Sometimes you can get around the wiring, but you won’t ever get around a partition connection.

The most important tool for this project will be a stud-finder. One that also checks for sheet-metal ducting, plumbing pipes and electrical wiring is best for this task. If there is a sink or shower valve on the other side of the wall, there will be a valve or a vent pipe in the wall. If a stove exists, there might be a gas line or larger electric wire in your way. Look in the attic to see if anything is penetrating the top of the wall. No penetrations from the attic or sub-area are good indications, but not proof positive.

Once you’ve found the perfect place for your niche, use a razor knife or a saw to cut out the wallboard to the niche manufacturer’s specifications. We suggest making a small hole with a razor knife first. Check to make sure that nothing exists in the cavity. Then cut.

With the hole cut, apply the glue. Put it on the wall — not the niche. You will find out that handling a caulked niche can be a mess. Some manufacturers suggest a special adhesive for their niches. If that’s not the case, we suggest silicone caulk. Clear is good. It sticks well, can easily be cleaned with alcohol and will readily fill the irregular void that typically is created between a straight object (like the back of a niche) and a wall’s wavy surface.

Be prepared to have someone apply pressure to the surface of the niche to hold it solidly in place while six- or eight-penny bright finish nails are used to permanently attach it to the wall. The nail should be long enough to go through the niche and the wallboard, and then penetrate into the stud approximately one inch. Wipe off the excess caulk, putty the nail holes and let everything dry.

–Associated Press

— Associated Press