Tub removal, replacement favoured

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Question -- I have a question about bathroom renovations. The tiles in our shower are loose and coming off the wall. Our home is only 10 years old and the tiles and wall are damaged under a window in the shower. I have been talking to some bathroom people and want to ask what you think. We just had a woman from Bath Fitter do an estimate. They put an acrylic lining over the tub and up the wall to the ceiling. They have some system to cut and mould the lining, so that it is only one piece. They will also pull out the tile and repair the wallboard, as well as replacing the faucet with new fixtures. The quote I received is for one of the nicer acrylic marble finishes and a fancier tub front, as well as the wall repairs. We obtained a quote from another company, who want to take down the old tile, repair the wall, install new aqua board, replace the tub, put in new plumbing fixtures, and redo the tiles; basically a full renovation. The cost would be almost the same as the other method, or a little less. Of course, they say this is much better than the acrylic liner. I think I would prefer this repair, except that the last tiles didn't do very well and now are collapsing after 10 years or so. What do you think? Is the tub liner better than redoing the tiles and tub? What is likely to last longer? Please let me know what your opinion on these would be. --Ted Switzer, e-mail Answer -- The one-piece tub surround and tub liner quoted in the first repair method described is normally a high-quality repair method for damaged or deteriorated tubs and shower areas. It is most often employed when the walls have minor deterioration or are unsightly and the finish on the tub is deteriorated, but the structure is still sound. It is not done as often when the walls are badly moisture damaged and require complete removal and replacement. The "tub liner" is designed to go over top of the old tub, without the need to remove it and the tiles and wall sheathing above. For those types of applications, they are an excellent method of renewal and waterproofing of old bathroom fixtures. Acrylic tub liners are a far superior method, in my experience, to spray-on refinishing methods that aren't nearly as durable. The cost of the fixture alone is normally the least expensive part in replacing an old, worn-out bathtub. They are not often replaced due to the difficulty in removal. A large section of the walls above and around the tub must be removed to accommodate lifting the tub from its resting place. Older cast iron tubs are normally too heavy to lift and must be broken up with a sledgehammer or cut into pieces for removal. The wall finish above the tub, often ceramic tile, has to be removed and replaced. The cost of that repair will far outweigh the bathtub fixture cost. For this reason, tub liners are a medium priced alternative to tub removal and replacement. In situations like Mr. Switzer's, where the tiles are loose and the walls damaged from prolonged exposure to moisture, complete tub removal and replacement may be more desirable and I would recommend the second method. Once the wall sheathing and tiles are removed, the tub may be easily disconnected and removed. A new tub may be installed and the new wall covering and tiles or shower surround replaced after. This is also an ideal time to update the tub and shower faucet and drains. The tile walls likely deteriorated so quickly due to improper wall sheathing combined with the location on an exterior wall with a window. Having a window in the shower area has always led to problems with winter condensation and moisture intrusion, while allowing a method for ventilation of the steam from the tub and shower. A better method of ventilation would be to install a ceiling exhaust fan, vented to the exterior, if one is not currently present. The current window should have a moisture resistant frame and sash, such as PVC, and have a high quality sealed unit in the sash. If this is not the case, the window should be removed and replaced at the same time as the bathroom renovation. The reason I favour the tub removal and replacement method is that it will allow inspection of the wall cavity and framing for moisture damage and mould. Surface mould may be cleaned with a 10 per cent bleach solution, while more substantial mould and rot may require replacement of wall studs. Once the framing is clean and sound, the wall may be re-insulated and properly sealed with a polyethylene air-vapour barrier that is caulked to the window frame, floor sheathing and other possible areas of air leakage. The wall may then be covered with moisture-resistant wall sheathing, such as cement tile backer board commonly called "wonder board", or other tile backing material. This will be a much better alternative to the drywall that was likely used in the original construction. After taping or filling the seams, the wall is then ready for new ceramic tiles, acrylic, cultured marble, laminate, or other wall finish designed specifically for showers walls. Ari Marantz is owner/inspector of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and is the P.R. rep. for the Canadian Association of Home Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358. trainedeye@iname.com

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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 16/06/2002 (8702 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Question — I have a question about bathroom renovations. The tiles in our shower are loose and coming off the wall. Our home is only 10 years old and the tiles and wall are damaged under a window in the shower. I have been talking to some bathroom people and want to ask what you think.

We just had a woman from Bath Fitter do an estimate. They put an acrylic lining over the tub and up the wall to the ceiling. They have some system to cut and mould the lining, so that it is only one piece. They will also pull out the tile and repair the wallboard, as well as replacing the faucet with new fixtures. The quote I received is for one of the nicer acrylic marble finishes and a fancier tub front, as well as the wall repairs.

We obtained a quote from another company, who want to take down the old tile, repair the wall, install new aqua board, replace the tub, put in new plumbing fixtures, and redo the tiles; basically a full renovation. The cost would be almost the same as the other method, or a little less. Of course, they say this is much better than the acrylic liner. I think I would prefer this repair, except that the last tiles didn’t do very well and now are collapsing after 10 years or so.

What do you think? Is the tub liner better than redoing the tiles and tub? What is likely to last longer? Please let me know what your opinion on these would be.

–Ted Switzer, e-mail


Answer — The one-piece tub surround and tub liner quoted in the first repair method described is normally a high-quality repair method for damaged or deteriorated tubs and shower areas. It is most often employed when the walls have minor deterioration or are unsightly and the finish on the tub is deteriorated, but the structure is still sound. It is not done as often when the walls are badly moisture damaged and require complete removal and replacement. The “tub liner” is designed to go over top of the old tub, without the need to remove it and the tiles and wall sheathing above. For those types of applications, they are an excellent method of renewal and waterproofing of old bathroom fixtures.

Acrylic tub liners are a far superior method, in my experience, to spray-on refinishing methods that aren’t nearly as durable.

The cost of the fixture alone is normally the least expensive part in replacing an old, worn-out bathtub. They are not often replaced due to the difficulty in removal. A large section of the walls above and around the tub must be removed to accommodate lifting the tub from its resting place. Older cast iron tubs are normally too heavy to lift and must be broken up with a sledgehammer or cut into pieces for removal. The wall finish above the tub, often ceramic tile, has to be removed and replaced. The cost of that repair will far outweigh the bathtub fixture cost. For this reason, tub liners are a medium priced alternative to tub removal and replacement. In situations like Mr. Switzer’s, where the tiles are loose and the walls damaged from prolonged exposure to moisture, complete tub removal and replacement may be more desirable and I would recommend the second method.

Once the wall sheathing and tiles are removed, the tub may be easily disconnected and removed. A new tub may be installed and the new wall covering and tiles or shower surround replaced after. This is also an ideal time to update the tub and shower faucet and drains. The tile walls likely deteriorated so quickly due to improper wall sheathing combined with the location on an exterior wall with a window. Having a window in the shower area has always led to problems with winter condensation and moisture intrusion, while allowing a method for ventilation of the steam from the tub and shower. A better method of ventilation would be to install a ceiling exhaust fan, vented to the exterior, if one is not currently present. The current window should have a moisture resistant frame and sash, such as PVC, and have a high quality sealed unit in the sash. If this is not the case, the window should be removed and replaced at the same time as the bathroom renovation.

The reason I favour the tub removal and replacement method is that it will allow inspection of the wall cavity and framing for moisture damage and mould. Surface mould may be cleaned with a 10 per cent bleach solution, while more substantial mould and rot may require replacement of wall studs. Once the framing is clean and sound, the wall may be re-insulated and properly sealed with a polyethylene air-vapour barrier that is caulked to the window frame, floor sheathing and other possible areas of air leakage.

The wall may then be covered with moisture-resistant wall sheathing, such as cement tile backer board commonly called “wonder board”, or other tile backing material. This will be a much better alternative to the drywall that was likely used in the original construction. After taping or filling the seams, the wall is then ready for new ceramic tiles, acrylic, cultured marble, laminate, or other wall finish designed specifically for showers walls.


Ari Marantz is owner/inspector of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and is the P.R. rep. for the Canadian Association of Home Inspectors — Manitoba (www.cahi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358.


trainedeye@iname.com

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