Waiter… ALLIGATOR!

Convention centre chef Quentin Harty encourages you to 'fritter' away some time and enjoy the N'awlins-inspired menu at Winnipeg Mardi Gras

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In Winnipeg, when you hear the word "gator," the first thing that pops into mind might be a small utility vehicle handy for golf courses and lawn trailers. The second might be the "leggings-like" apparel that cross-country skiers wear on their calves (gaitors).

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Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 10/02/2010 (6063 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

In Winnipeg, when you hear the word "gator," the first thing that pops into mind might be a small utility vehicle handy for golf courses and lawn trailers. The second might be the "leggings-like" apparel that cross-country skiers wear on their calves (gaitors).

But this weekend, "gator" really means "alligator" as in, "I got a hankerin’ for them N’awlins gator fritters, cher." And with the New Orleans Saints as the new Super Bowl champs, alligator would be the thing to have on the menu.

You’ll be able to get those gator fritters (and maybe a little football contact high from the zydeco bands) at Winnipeg Mardi Gras this weekend. That’s a new item Winnipeg Convention Centre executive chef Quentin Harty has added to his Cajun/Creole menu this year.

DAVID LIPNOWSKI / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
Cook’s helper Jillian Ferguson (from left) Garde Manger cook Greg Bilyk, Harty and Garde Manger cook Amy Faschauner have an array of Mardi Gras tastes ready for diners.
DAVID LIPNOWSKI / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Cook’s helper Jillian Ferguson (from left) Garde Manger cook Greg Bilyk, Harty and Garde Manger cook Amy Faschauner have an array of Mardi Gras tastes ready for diners.

"The alligator is something new and it’s synonymous with New Orleans," says Harty. "We thought it was a great opportunity to introduce another new item to the Winnipeg market."

Never had alligator before? Harty compared it to something more familiar to the ‘Pegger palate.

"Its actual flavour is close to chicken for sure, it’s not far off. But it’s unique on its own, it’s like describing ‘How does lamb taste?’ It has its own unique flavour, but it does remind you of chicken."

Alligator is best served as fritters, which also happens to be the most popular way to eat them in New Orleans. You can buy alligator here, too. Harty says the Mariner Neptune Fish & Seafood Company on Dufferin Avenue can bring them in for local consumers. And if you’re game to try them at home, you’ll find his recipe below.

Harty has been the executive chef at the WCC for about 15 years now, and while he says the biggest challenge he and his staff face is turning the third floor into a giant dining room, he clearly enjoys the challenge of planning this particular menu.

"Mardi Gras originated in New Orleans, and New Orleans is famous for its Cajun and Creole foods," he says. "It’s a tough thing to define Cajun and Creole cuisines — those two cuisines are intertwined.

"When you talk about Cajun cuisine you really talk about a French country style of cooking. And when you talk about Creole you’re talking about something that’s more urban style and sophisticated, compared to the Cajun."

The best way to spot the difference might be in the flavour notes. "Some people may identify the Cajun as spicy in terms of heat," says Harty. "When you talk about Creole, there’s "spicy" in a different regard with the complexity of the herbs and the flavourings that are used, and not necessarily heat."

Harty has some pretty straightforward advice for the home cook wanting to try out his recipes.

"Select quality ingredients, and you’re going to find the cost of those quality ingredients slightly higher and that’s for a reason. It’s like the Schneider’s tag line ‘you can taste the difference quality makes.’

"I subscribe to that slogan for sure. Good food takes both time and love to prepare," he says.

Finally, Harty reiterates what all good chefs will tell you.

"A recipe should be used only as a guideline," he says. "When you talk about quality ingredients, especially spices and herbs, different flavourings vary the intensity of their inherent flavours by package or manufacturer, so a recipe should also be adjusted for taste."

You’ll find some of Harty’s New Orleans-style recipes below.

You can experience the sizzling sights, sounds and tastes of the Mardi Gras tradition at Winnipeg Mardi Gras Feb. 12 & 13 from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. at the convention centre. Get more information at www.winnipegmardigras.com or the Winnipeg Mardi Gras hotline (957-4535)

 

Mardi Gras alligator fritters

Yields 6 Servings

500 g (16 oz) alligator loin, coarsely ground

1 medium sized onion, coarsely chopped

1 red bell pepper, coarsely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

125 ml (1/2 cup) flour

10 ml (2 tsp) baking powder

0.5 ml (1/8 tsp) mace

0.5 ml (1/8 tsp) cayenne pepper

2 ml (1/2 tsp) dry mustard

5 ml (1 tsp) salt

2 eggs, lightly beaten

30 ml (2 tbsp) clarified butter

DAVID LIPNOWSKI / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
Blackened Catfish
DAVID LIPNOWSKI / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Blackened Catfish

15 ml (1 tbsp) Worcestershire sauce

5 ml (1 tsp) Louisiana hot sauce

canola oil, as required

In a food processor, add the alligator, chopped onion, bell pepper and garlic. Pulverize to a fine "farcie" consistency (like stuffing).

In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, salt, mace, cayenne, mustard powder and baking powder.

In a large stainless steel mixing bowl, beat the eggs. Add the above sifted flour mixture. Add the clarified butter, Worcestershire and hot sauce and thoroughly blend with the alligator farcie.

In a deep skillet, add canola oil to a depth of 1-inch. Pre-heat the oil to 190C (375F).

Drop batter mixture 15 ml (1 tablespoon) at a time into the hot oil.

Turn fritters over with a slotted spoon as they brown. Remove from oil when browned on all sides. Serve with fresh lime and a Cajun dipping sauce.

 

New Orleans-style blackened catfish 

Yields 6 portions

6 catfish

125 g (4 oz) melted butter

 

Mix together blackening spice:

30 ml (2 tbsp) paprika

12 ml (21/2 tsp) salt

10 ml (2 tsp) lemon pepper

7 ml (11/2 tsp) garlic powder

7 ml (11/2 tsp) ground pepper

7 ml (11/2 tsp) dried basil

5 ml (1 tsp) onion powder

5 ml (1 tsp) thyme 

Heat a large cast-iron or heavy aluminum skillet (make sure the pan is very hot). Dip catfish into melted butter and coat both sides of fish with blackening spice. Place fillet on hot skillet and cook both sides until brown. Serve immediately.

 

New Orleans-style crab cakes

Yields 6-8 portions

500 g (1 lb) lump white crab meat

250-500 ml (2-3 cups) bread crumbs

1 white onion, (finely chopped)

DAVID LIPNOWSKI / FREE PRESS ARCHIVES
Crab cakes
DAVID LIPNOWSKI / FREE PRESS ARCHIVES Crab cakes

4 cloves garlic (minced)

125 ml (1/2 cup) Parmesan cheese

1 red pepper (finely chopped)

good pinch salt

1 bunch green onions (green part only)

black pepper

1/2 stalk celery (finely chopped)

15 ml (1 tbsp) Louisiana hot sauce

10 ml (2 tsp) fresh thyme

85 g (3 oz) butter sticks

3 eggs

vegetable oil (for pan frying)

In a large preheated frying pan, melt butter. Sauté white onions, celery, red pepper, garlic & green onions. Pour mixture into a mixing bowl.

Add bread crumbs, 2 eggs, flour, Parmesan cheese, crab meat, seasoning and hot sauce.

Mix all ingredients together. Shape mixture into patty shapes. Dip patties in the seasoned flour, egg wash and seasoned bread crumbs.

In a skillet, add vegetable oil and heat to 180C (350F). Cook crab cakes on both sides until golden brown. Serve hot.

 

New Orleans-style baby back beer ribs

Yields 6 Servings

Cooking time 3 hours and 30 minutes.

Spice rub ingredients

60 ml (4 tbsp) Kosher salt

30 ml (2 tbsp) paprika

30 ml (2 tbsp) chili powder

15 ml (1 tbsp) ground cumin

15 ml (1 tbsp) ground coriander

15 ml (1 tbsp) ground garlic

5 ml (1 tsp) Tabasco sauce

 

Sauce:

Beer ribs
Beer ribs

125 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil

3 medium onions

45 ml (3 tbsp) ground garlic

3 carrots, roughly chopped

2 sliced seeded Jalapeno chili peppers

1 litre (4 cups) canned tomatoes

125 ml (1/2 cup) molasses

250 ml (1 cup) honey

175 ml (3/4 cup) red wine vinegar

175 ml (3/4 cup) lime juice

8 beer

3 bay leaves

2 ml (1/2 tsp) salt

2 ml (1/2 tsp) pepper

3 rack baby pork ribs (2.5 kg or about 5 lbs)

1. Mix together all the ingredients in the spice rub mix.

2. Rub the ribs on both sides with the spice rub mix. Wait one hour.

3. Preheat oven to 180C (350F).

4. Cook the ribs on a greased pan for one hour.

5. Add the olive oil to a large preheated sauté pan. Add the onions, carrots, and garlic and saute for 5 to 6 minutes.

6. Place the rest of the ingredients, including the ribs, into a preheated oven at 150C (300F). Cook for 11/2 hours.

7. Remove the ribs from the pan. Blend the remaining sauce in a blender until smooth.

8. Pour sauce over ribs and serve.

 

Did you know Winnipeg Mardi Gras supports 11 different charities?

Proceeds from ticket purchases and auction activities during Winnipeg Mardi Gras weekend will benefit the following charities: Canadian Liver Foundation, CancerCare Manitoba Foundation, Children’s Rehabilitation Foundation, CNIB, Dreams Take Flight, Heart and Stroke Foundation, Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation, Macdonald Youth Services, Society for Manitobans with Disabilities Foundation, Southdale Recreation Centre, The Rainbow Society.

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