Montreal a city of many sights and tastes

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My infatuation with Montreal began many years ago, when I had the opportunity to visit the World Exposition of 1967.

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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 11/10/2014 (4083 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

My infatuation with Montreal began many years ago, when I had the opportunity to visit the World Exposition of 1967.

Expo 67, with its fascinating plethora of pavilions from around the world, created a desire within me to travel to these countries, and a commitment to return to Montreal.

Over the years I would visit Montreal on business trips many times, but time was often too limited to explore much more than the downtown core.

Ron Pradinuk / Winnipeg Free Press 
The Jean-Talon Market is the largest public market in Canada.
Ron Pradinuk / Winnipeg Free Press The Jean-Talon Market is the largest public market in Canada.

In a chance meeting with Hugo Leclerc of Tourisme Montreal, he insisted that had to change. On my next business trip, I was their guest for a three-day tour of the city to see what has made it one of the most-visited international destinations.

Interestingly, I stayed at the Hilton Montreal Bonaventure. The hotel was built in 1966 for the crowds expected for Expo. With its unique rooftop gardens and heated year-round pool, its unique design was far ahead of its time. It’s still one of the most sought-after accommodations downtown.

My journey began with a guided tour of Montreal, something every tourist should do when they visit a new city. A guide can articulate a depth of information, with personal perspectives you can’t get from reading travel books.

It was my guide, Carol Chef, who underscored how Expo 67 changed Montreal forever. The 50 million visitors going back to their home provinces and countries heralded the reputation of Montreal as a world-class destination. For the people who lived and worked in Montreal, it opened their eyes to the outside world in the same way. If Montreal ever had a reputation as an insular city, it would never be that again.

On this tour, we stopped at some of the major historical sites. We visited the unique areas that weave into the personality of the city. We walked through local shops and markets. For the first time, I viewed Montreal from atop its famous mountain, where tourists gather by the hundreds while locals play in the nearby parks and recreation areas.

Some may consider Montreal a French city. And while it is true French is the dominant language, it truly is a cosmopolitan city.

You will hear many languages as you wander about the city. Its many ethnic sections attest to this diversity as well.

Montreal may be the only city where you can buy bagels 24 hours a day. The Jean-Talon Market in Little Italy, founded in 1933, is Montreal’s oldest market. In addition to its perfectly merchandised fruits and vegetables, aromas of spices, oils, cheeses, meats and pastries compel visitors to purchase the products from which they emanate.

To gain an understanding of the historical foundations of this unique island city, a visit to the Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History is a must. Built on the banks of the mighty St. Lawrence River, the museum is the archaeological site of the birthplace of Montreal.

The original walls of its first buildings, its public square, and its first Catholic cemetery reveal the way of life of its early settlers, framing the significant role the city would play in the formation of Canada.

A 17-minute film shown on 270-degree screens, including animated projections on the grounds of the archeological digs, provide an entertaining and informative glimpse of the area’s history from the Ice Age until today.

There are more restaurants in Montreal than any city in Canada, and probably North America, Chef said.

Later, on my own, I was able to confirm Montreal’s reputation for culinary excellence. While there are restaurants at every price level, one does not have to break the bank to appreciate that reality.

In Little Italy, at Pizzeria Neopoleton on Dante Street, one of the oldest pizza outlets in the city, I dined for only $16 on a very thin crust personal pizza with a delicate blend of meats, cheeses and herbs. This is a cash-only restaurant with no liquor licence, but guests are invited to bring in as many bottles of wine as they like.

In what is known as the plateau area, at the French Restaurant Leméac on Laurier Avenue West, I sampled an appetizer of steak tartar and a main course of veal chop topped with a delicious sauce featuring morel mushrooms, cooked in a way I believe only the French can.

One may perceive Old Montreal to be an area of French-only restaurants. Nothing could be further from the truth, with Thai, sushi, and other types of restaurants found throughout the area.

Proof of that was in my choice of restaurant in what I refer to as a busman’s holiday, the Polish restaurant Stash. The cabbage rolls and borscht, which I could have had at home, were delicious.

Three days of being a Montreal tourist was too short. I have always wanted to visit the world-famous Just for Laughs comedy festival in July. I hope this visit provides impetus for me to do so.

Forward your travel questions to askjourneys@journeystravel.com. Ron Pradinuk is president of Journeys Travel & Leisure SuperCentre and can be heard Sundays at noon on CJOB. Previous columns and tips can be found at www.journeystravelgear.com. Read Ron’s travel blog at www.thattravelguy.ca.

Ron Pradinuk

Ron Pradinuk
Travel writer

A writer and a podcaster, Ron's travel column appears in the Winnipeg Free Press every Saturday in the Destinations and Diversions section.

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