PRETTY CITY

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 22/08/2015 (3694 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

You don’t have to be an NHL star with a posh summer home on Lake of the Woods to enjoy an upscale holiday getaway to Kenora.

Heck, you don’t even have to own a boat.

As I found out earlier this month, all you need to get yourself out on the water, flying over the water, dining, exploring and even shopping at the edge of the water is a desire to discover all that an urban-lake experience can be.

Tourism became vitally important to Kenora’s economy when the paper mill that was the area’s predominant employer shut down in 2005. Since then, an entrepreneurial spirit has taken hold in the city of 15,500, set against one of Mother Nature’s most uplifting backdrops.

New lake sport and tour options, shops, restaurants, salons, spa and even a craft brewery have sprung to life. Millions have been spent on harbourfront development and streetscaping to showcase downtown’s century-old buildings.

In short, Kenora has reinvented itself as a tourist destination. It’s not unusual for the most popular hotels, motels and B & Bs to display “no vacancy” signs. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends.

My Sunday through Tuesday stay helped ensure there would be room for me at the Lakeside Inn, my personal favourite.

Located within walking distance of shops, restaurants and lake adventures, the 11-storey, cylindrical hotel is a Kenora landmark. It was built over top the lake, making for spectacular views from most rooms thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows. With recent renovations including dreamy beds and bedding, the property is approaching four-star status.

Claim a seat in Lakeside’s upper-floor restaurant or lounge just ahead of sunset to watch the sun slip beneath the rugged Precambrian landscape. For me, it’s like an exclamation point at the end of a wonderful day.

Other notable options for accommodation include Kendall House B & B, centrally located in a lovingly restored heritage home circa 1890s. And new on the scene is Nature’s Inn which offers big bang for your buck. This intimate motel on Kenora’s west side boasts a charming grotto patio and small, on-site day spa.

On this trip with Tourism Kenora as my host, I got to see and do as much as I could squeeze into my three-day stay. That meant enjoying the ultimate bird’s eye view of Lake of the Woods during my first floatplane flight and observing five bald eagles in their natural habitat from the deck of the ultra-popular MS Kenora.

The 190-passenger ship offers narrated daytime and evening cruises through Labour Day weekend. For me, cruising among some of the lake’s 14,500 islands equals two hours of pure relaxation.

The following morning saw me out on the lake again, this time buckled into a four-seater Cessna with two other first-time floatplaners. Pilot Robin Warken, from Kenora Air Service, put us at ease by describing how we would skim across the water and tilt right just before lift-off to compensate for the cross-wind.

Once airborne, we flew 275 metres above the water and hundreds of small islands, most with a cottage or two shoehorned onto them. From the air, you truly appreciate the vastness of Lake of the Woods. A 20-minute flight costs about $75 per person. The visual memory is priceless.

Safely back on terra firma, my next stop was Green Adventures where novices and experienced paddlers alike can rent kayaks, canoes, and stand-up paddleboards by the hour. On a grander scale, owner Scott Green can arrange a customized, guided tour by motorboat according to your interests and budget. You might choose to make a whole day of it and go in search of ancient pictographs on far-flung shores or simply head to a secluded beach to picnic, swim and sun for a few hours. Or, as we did, navigate through the maze of islands to a lake lodge restaurant for lunch.

When it comes to Kenora’s culinary scene, a recent restaurant boom has greatly enhanced its appeal for foodies. The Boathouse and 901 Westside earned top spots on my list. Their casual ambiance belies their ambitious and delicious upscale fare that celebrates fresh, local ingredients.

Lake of the Woods Brewing Co. Tap Room (with adjacent microbrewery) gets high marks for its food, craft beer and vibe. Located in a 1900s heritage fire hall complete with fire pole, it’s a beer aficionado’s delight and, arguably, the coolest place in Kenora.

These three restaurants opened within the last few years. Their rising tide promises to lift all culinary boats.

lauriene@mts.net