Roadside attractions

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 15/05/2021 (1771 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

He was a complicated man to be sure. At 72, Armand Lemiez began 10 years of intensely creative work that resulted in 21 concrete sculptures that stand at the end of a gravel driveway just south of the community of Grahamdale in the Interlake.

There’s an upright dinosaur shaking hands with a human, a snapping alligator, an antlered gentleman and a contemplative ape. It’s a mysterious and melancholy place, yet it carries the ambitious spirit of this Belgian native — an athlete, pioneer, blacksmith, carpenter, philanthropist, painter, gardener and sculptor.

And it’s just one of the treasures you’ll find along Provincial Trunk Highway 6. Although it has long been the way goods arrive in the north, it’s the road less travelled when it comes to adventure in the province. Its secrets remain largely unexplored.

Our tour starts in the south, on a vintage steam locomotive we all know and love — the Prairie Dog Central. The leisurely ride snakes through the Prairies while costumed attendants stay in character to make riders feel as if time has stood still. After an hour on the rails, the train stops in the community of Grosse Isle and riders are encouraged to explore the heritage village that includes a schoolhouse, church and station. There’s also a tall grass prairie that offers a self-guided leisurely walk. Book your tickets for one of the special events and you just might find yourself in the middle of a train robbery.

At Ashern, stop for road snacks at the Happy Planet Hub inside the Petro-Canada gas station and get a couple of samosas to go. Then make your way to Goodwill store on Main Street to pick up some treasures. And don’t forget to grab a selfie with the town’s sharptail grouse statue, standing an impressive five metres tall.

Remember to pack your fishing gear and make a stop at Fairford Dam. Spring is prime time for shoreline casts that might results in success with a variety of species include walleye, northern pike, catfish, carp and plenty of freshwater drum. Try not to be too distracted by the synchronized flights of the pelicans and cormorants overhead as they dive into the Fairford River—they’re fishing too!

There’s a tropical feel to the shoreline around Steep Rock. The air smells faintly salty and the water is tinged with turquoise thanks to a high concentration of minerals and the limestone bed of shallow Lake Manitoba. Take a hike across the top of the area’s limestone cliffs where the westward view of Goat Island promises a spectacular sunset perch. For a fisheye view of the cliffs, rent a ride from Steep Rock Kayak & Canoe and explore the caves beneath the cliffs, then paddle to the island to visit the resident goats. Back up on dry land, visit the abandoned quarry with its impossibly blue water pools and migrating waterfowl. Overnighters have their pick of a spot at the Steep Rock Campground, the community house that sleeps 10 or one of Peter’s Farm Cottages (on AirBnB) on acreage just outside of the village.

The images from Little Limestone Lake, just north of Grand Rapids, seem like the work of a skilled Photoshop hand, but step onto the shoreline and you’ll see Manitoba’s true blue lagoon is for real. It’s the world’s largest and most dramatically colour-changing marl lake. A marl is created when calcite, a kind of limestone, is triggered by heat, turning the water from turquoise to deep sea blue throughout the day. Heads up, though, the drivable path from the highway to the lake is not for the faint of heart. It can be impassable after a rain. There are no services in the area and camping is only with advance permission from the Mosakahiken Cree Nation.

The Grass River takes a 13-metre plunge through a chute, creating the mighty and marvellously photogenic Pisew Falls, a not-to-be-missed destination just short drive off the main highway. The province’s second highest falls make for fabulous photos any time of the year, but particularly in early summer when a chunk of river ice remains, the spring melt increases the volume of water through the channel and the first tender leaves appear on the boreal trees. There’s a boardwalk offering several views and interpretive signage.

For flora lovers, the continuous moisture created by the falls creates a little microclimate that supports fungi, mosses, lichens and rare ferns. Look down along the half kilometre hike to the Rotary Bridge and you many just spot the ultra tiny and rare Calypso bulbosa, one of 37 species of native orchids in Manitoba. Bring the macro lens for your camera.

For adventure seekers with hiking boots laced up, the 29-kilometre round trip to Kwastichewan Falls, Manitoba’s highest waterfall, won’t disappoint. Begin at the Rotary Bridge and be prepared for boggy spots, plenty of tree roots, fallen branches and steep climbs. It’ll take all of 12 hours to complete so an overnighter at the designated camp spot—right at the falls — is highly recommended and unquestionably rewarding. The trail snakes along the Grass River on the way in and Phillips Lake on the way out, providing alternative views of the boreal landscape.

The majesty of the north is on full display at this Paint Lake Provincial Park, centred around the 40-kilometre long Paint Lake. Campers can take their pick from more than 80 sites or book one of six yurts clustered on a private peninsula. Hot showers, playgrounds, a volleyball court, beaches and trails means there’s always something for everyone. There are even two backcountry campsites on the lake for those who need to get away from it all.

And for those who want a little bit of luxury, Paint Lake Lodge and Marina offers modern cabins for rent, a full-service restaurant (don’t miss the ribs), convenience store, boat rentals and fishing guides. There’s also a spacious patio overlooking Paint Lake to enjoy a post-hike beverage.

It’s the wolves that will first catch your attention in Thompson, a city that got its start in the late 1950s when nickel was discovered in the area. These wolves are in statue form, placed along the pathway and biking trail called Spirit Way. You’ll also get the perfect view of artist Robert Bateman’s iconic wolf mural, gracing the side of a 10-storey building. The final stop of the path is near the Burntwood River, where a Norseman floatplane is on permanent display as a tribute to the pilots and mechanics who remain essential to bring goods to the north.

The log structures that house the Heritage North Museum only add to the authentic northern feel of the place, stocked with artifacts from the area’s fur trade history, a boreal forest diorama and even a caribou-hide teepee. The outdoor blacksmith shop harkens to a time when things were made by hand, with care and craftsmanship. And don’t miss the gift shop — one of the best places in town to pick up souvenirs, including wild rice, fur products, Arctic Gold Honey and the work of local artists inspired by the Aurora Borealis, deep, dark forests and plentiful wildlife.

shel@shelzolkewich.com