Friendly Acadia

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 03/09/2022 (1225 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Driving along the east coast of New Brunswick between Moncton and Miramichi, you are sure to pass by many examples of the Acadian flag. On my various trips to New Brunswick I have seen it flying high on all sorts of buildings as well as painted on benches, posts, canoes and almost any other home-based creative options.

The design of this flag was created to define the character of a special people — their spirit, resilience, and lifestyle — as well as to serve as a reminder of a past history that brought pain and suffering. In 1755, when families were forced to choose allegiance to the British Flag, or face deportation, the aftermath of split families left scars for many, even to this day.

In later years, many of those deported began to return — and along with the original Acadians who stayed — found their footing in business and leadership positions in New Brunswick, as well as the other provinces that were impacted by the expulsions. The flag was introduced as a symbol of an Acadian Renaissance. The design proudly highlights their links with their motherland, France — highlighting the same the red white and blue stripes — but punctuated with a blue star, a papal symbol from their Catholic religion.

Talk to the people in the region, while they will be willing to talk about that darker period of history, they live in today’s world, and a more joyful lifestyle would be hard to find anywhere.

Perhaps it was this strength of conviction that led New Brunswick to becoming the first and only fully bilingual province in 1969. Go into most businesses along the Acadian coast and you will almost always be greeted in both languages.

While only about a third of the province boasts French roots — along the Acadian Coast it is French you will hear being exchanged by the locals most often. But don’t worry, your first English words will direct the conversation no matter where you go.

As we travelled through the towns along coastal New Brunswick — perhaps Influenced by their locations near the sea — we did not have to search far for restaurants that featured items such as fried clams, mussels, and of course, a consistent supply of New Brunswick lobster.

You will find an array of lobster boats many times as you stop to explore the many harbours along the shores.

Over my many visits to New Brunswick, a visit to Bouctouche — and nearby Le Pays de la Sagouine — is almost always on my must go list.

The town takes pride in presenting itself as one of the province’s greenest communities — likely one of the reasons it has been included in the list of Canada’s ten most beautiful small-town communities.

After a few days of travel, a chance to enjoy a beach and learn about the how one of the most important dunes in North America was restored is a perfect way to recharge before travelling through more of the province.

A 20-kilometre stretch of sand in Bouctouche Bay dates back more than 2,000 years and was being eroded until the JD Irving company stepped in and made it one of its prime projects. La Dune de Bouctouche, with its great boardwalk, is where you will find hundreds of Bouctouche residents every weekend.

English Canada may not be as much aware of the writings of Antonine Maillet, but her books have received international recognition. Based on the characters in her book, Le Pays de la Sagouine was created 30 years ago to highlight the life and the joie de vivre of this region. It has been a prime attraction of New Brunswick since, bringing thousands each summer to listen to the music and to walk back in time to experience the foundation and culture of a peoples.

Not far from Bouctouche, along the river of the same name, a visit to the award winning Richibucto River Wine Estate in Mundleville may be an experience you were not expecting to find in New Brunswick. I was surprised to learn there are 17 wineries in the province.

The biggest winery in New Brunswick is the Magnetic Hill Winery on the edge of Moncton. If you should end up at this one, especially if you are travelling with family, putting your vehicle in neutral at the bottom of the Magnetic Hill and feeling it roll upwards to the top—is an optical illusion everyone will marvel at.

No one should leave New Brunswick without travelling the hour from Moncton to experience the world-renowned Fundy Tides at the Fundy National Park. Walk along the sand at low tide and return a few hours later to see the natural miracle of its rise of at least 10 metres. Scientists travel from around the world to view the phenomenon.

pradinukr@shaw.caw

Ron Pradinuk
Travel writer

A writer and a podcaster, Ron's travel column appears in the Winnipeg Free Press every Saturday in the Destinations and Diversions section.

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