Lying low in Mexico

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 12/11/2022 (1063 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

A quiet cove where ocean blue water laps gently to the shore. Soul warming sunny days. The smoky aroma of fresh salsa drizzled on a hot tortilla. If this is the Mexico of your dreams, head for Puerto Escondido for this winter’s getaway.

The semi-sleepy city of 45,000 on the Oaxacan Pacific coastline, where vacationers soak up the guaranteed hot weather, even in January, and surfers gather to ride the Mexican Pipeline, continues to feel a bit undiscovered as a Mexican destination. There are no large seaside resorts here and no direct flights from Manitoba and that makes it rather appealing for some travelers. Fly into Huatulco, then take the very affordable two-hour bus ride along the coastline to this destination.

Where to stay?

For the right mix of modern and traditional, it’s Hotel Suites VillaSol. The three-storey hotel offers a variety of rooms, clustered around a quiet pool in the Bacocho Beach neighbourhood. The onsite bakery stirs even the sleepiest of travelers every morning. Take the five-minute ride to the hotel’s beach club where open-air restaurant Pez Gallo serves up chilaquiles with an upclose view of the ocean. There’s a large pool and a smaller wading pool here along with another restaurant, volleyball, tennis, giant chess, a massage service and cocktails too.

For a stay in the heart of the surfing action, Beach Hotel Inez boasts one of the best locations, directly on Avineda del Morro overlooking sprawling Zicatela Beach. The collection of apartments, rooms, cabins and bungalows means every eclectic visitor can find a bed that’s just right.

Not far away are the lush gardens surrounding the clear blue pool at Hotel Casa de Dan, where the collection of 15 cabañas and apartments are cheerfully prices for daily, weekly and dare we say it—monthly stays. There’s also a café on site for lazy mornings.

The posh pink palace on the beach signals you’ve arrived at Hotel Santa Fe. Each room is a bit different with some offering ocean views and others overlooking in the pool. Then there are the master suites, with large living areas, king sized beds, Mexican antiques and more than one balcony. Seafood dinners at the hotel’s restaurant are top notch.

What to do?

The Mexican Pipeline rips across Puerto Escondido’s Zicatela Beach, making it a hot spot for international surfers. Novices are well advised to take lessons. The two-hour class delivered by Zicazteca Surf School includes transportation, a surfboard, rash guard and board shorts. But take note: watching these brave souls can be just as exciting as doing it. Check local notices for upcoming surf competitions.

For something on the other end of the spectrum, head for Playa Carizalillo for the best swimming beach in the area. Pass through the orange archway in the Rinconada area near El Cafecito Restaurant and start your descent down 167 stone steps. It’s worth it to arrive at this sheltered cove where loungers are available with food and drink purchases.

A float in the shimmering waters of Laguna de Manialtepec by moonlight is the stuff of dreams. At certain times of the year, the waters become phosphorescent thanks to an algae that lives in the lagoon. Darting fishing and swimming humans activate the algae, sending streaks of light across the pond.

Every January, the Dreamweavers Exhibition and Sale comes to Hotel Santa Fe showcasing the weavings from the Tixinda Cooperative in Pinotepa de Don Luis, a mountain community above the city. Tunic dresses, bed linens and tablecloths feature vibrant colours including the sacred purple dye milked from a rare sea snail found in a remote bay near Puerto Escondido.

Where to eat

For the real deal in Oaxacan cuisine, head to the long tables, bustling servers and constant chatter that is La Juquileña (not to be confused with Las Juquileñas). Daily specials are handwritten on a white board and may include empanadas, cactus salad and tlayudas—a kind of Mexican pizza adored in these parts.

Bring your appetite and your phone to La Olita. The tacos here are hefty and highly Instagrammable. Instead of the usual corn or flour base, tacos here start on amaranth and moringa tortillas. Pick your protein and get it topped with grilled broccoli, zucchini, eggplant, cauliflower, chile poblano and pineapple.

Travelers in search of cheap and cheerful eats with an international twist need only to head to El Sultan where Middle Eastern fare including falafel, hummus, salads and shawarma are served at two locations (one right at Zicatela Beach).

Diners gather under the palapa at Spirulina for healthy food — with vegans and vegetarians in mind —and plenty of laid-back charm. The acai bowls are a breakfast time hit along with the Green Flash power smoothie. Lunch and dinner favourites include the veggie fajitas and homemade quinoa burger.

Shel’s Best Bet:

Without a doubt, my favourite Puerto Escondido experience was spending time with local guide Gina Machorro on her walking tour of the city. We started seaside with a traditional breakfast of cactus, tortillas and beans before popping into Tomasa’s kitchen for tortillas grilled over an open fire. Then it was on to Mercado Benito Juarez to sample pumpkin, bean and chili tamales at this massive and marvelous market. I had so much fun that I jumped on Gina’s agriculture tour a few days later where we ventured out of town, hopping on a ‘colectivo’, which requires jumping into the box of a truck. You can find Gina online at ginainpuertoescondido.wordpress.com

shel@shelzolkewich.com