Take a bite outta Banff

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 03/12/2022 (1198 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

BANFF — I first visited Banff 50 years ago and it was my introduction to what we call taking a vacation. I had previously had a few road trips: travelling by Greyhound bus from Regina to Portage la Prairie to visit my grandmother and auntie — and a long coach ride to Toronto to visit my father, who was living in Hamilton. But I’d never really travelled anywhere for the sheer joy of just experiencing another place. It was a wondrous adventure and it’s likely the seed that sprouted into my lifelong travel bug.

It could also be part of the reason why, whenever someone in another part of the world I’m visiting asks me what’s the one place they need to visit if they come to Canada, my answer is always the same — Banff.

My trip to the Canadian Rockies in the summer of 1972 was with a childhood friend John and his big brother from the Big Brothers Big Sisters association in Winnipeg. Prior to our departure, Arthur outfitted us young lads with gear and taught us what he knew about hiking and orienteering. The only outdoor experience I had had up until that time was traipsing through the bushes in south St. Vital; on the land now occupied by St. Vital Centre and Bishop Grandin Boulevard. It was exciting to have new hiking boots, a compass, a canteen; that kind of stuff.

We camped at Tunnel Mountain in Banff and our first big trek was to the Hermit of Inglismaldie’s cabin at Johnson Lake. In case you don’t know the story, the cabin was built in 1910 by a recluse named Billy Carver, who lived undiscovered in the national park for 27 years. In December of 1937 a pair of local boys discovered Carver at the cabin in poor shape physically and requiring medical assistance. The boys notified authorities and the hermit was eventually taken to an old-age home where he later died.

The Johnson Lake Trail that leads to the cabin is between 2.8 and 3.5 kilometres — depending on which route you take — and is considered quite family friendly and a great starter hike for kids. Reaching the hut is forever etched in my inner-child’s mind.

It’s now the fall of 2022 and I am in Banff again. It’s not the first time I’ve been back to the area. Some other memorable visits include passing through one spring on my way to the west coast and seeing a still-frozen Lake Louise (gorgeous); a 2007 visit when I wrote about the amazing golf courses in the region that Mother Nature helped develop; and the spring of 2019 when I chronicled how the town is attempting to deal with the growing traffic issues it faces with a new bussing program called Roam.

But aside from that first childhood visit, my second most memorable trip to Banff was in the late 1990s when I camped for 10 nights at Two Jack Lake. The tenting-only portion of the campground has sites situated on the glacier lake that are as picturesque and peaceful as any place I’ve ever been. And aside from the serenity of that stay, it was also on that visit that I first discovered the ever-evolving food scene in Banff. While we would of course often make dinner at the camp site, every other night we went into the townsite to find a new place to eat.

Yes, there are many natural wonders to explore in Banff National Park — and it also has some delectable places to nourish yourself before and after those activities.

On this particular visit in 2022, I have been invited to eat my way around town by the good folks at Pursuit Adventures — a collection of hospitality experiences — and Banff Lake Louise Tourism. I know, tough gig.

I’ve also come to hopefully accomplish something I fell short at 25 years ago on that late 90s visit.

The hike to the top of Sulphur Mountain is 5.4 kilometres with an elevation gain of 756 metres. On average, it takes about two hours to complete the series of endless switchbacks and reach the summit. When I last attempted this trek, I was in my late-30s, I still smoked, I drank too much — and I was about 45 pounds heavier than I am these days. My quest on that particular day ended about 500 metres into the climb, retreating to the bottom of the trail and marching — tail between my legs — to the gondola ticket office.

Another Banff memory etched in my mind.

I’m now 62 years old, haven’t had a drink in 20 years, don’t smoke anymore and have been relatively committed to an exercise regime over the last 10 years that I feel will help me climb that darned hill.

But before that: hey, I still love to eat so I better fuel up before I hit the trail.

Banff chefs have the good fortune of being able to draw on some of Canada’s best farmlands, ranches, wineries — and the relatively nearby Pacific Ocean. Traditional favourites in town include The Maple Leaf, Melissa’s MisSteak, the Grizzly House, Chuck’s Steakhouse, Balkan The Greek and of course the Magpie and Stump, which originated in Winnipeg’s Osbourne Village before relocating to the Rockies 36 years ago.

And while the perception of dining in Banff at one time might have been — and still could be — all about feasting on Alberta beef, bison, elk, and other game meats, the culinary scene has become much more diverse and a chefs collective has raised the bar to new levels on the local foodie scene over the last half-dozen years. Yes, carnivores can still get all the meat they might desire but there’s also top notch dining for those who might prefer something a little more green than red.

I spent the better part of a week grazing in the area and here are a few suggestions:

— One of the latest additions to the Banff food scene is Brazen, located in the historic Mount Royal Hotel at the iconic corner of Banff Avenue and Caribou Street. The restaurant is an homage to the intrepid explorers and daring mountaineers who built Banff. The breakfast menu tells the tale of Wild Bill — Ebenezer William Peyto; a revered mountain guide who also served as one of Banff’s first wardens. Legendary folklore tells a story of Peyto walking into a crowded bar in the Mount Royal with a live lynx so he could clear the place out and have it to himself. I’m unsure how Wild Bill would have felt about my morning entree of Croque Madame, a delicious take on classic eggs Benedict served on a brioche bread as opposed to a muffin, but while this might be modern cuisine, the hearty helping is sure to satisfy any hungry hiker;

— Located inside the Elk & Ave hotel, Farm & Fire has a wide selection of delicious brunch bowls that will set you up for a day on the trails. The Cluckin’ Good Time is comprised of the rotisserie chicken — on the house specialities, puff waffle, maple syrup, deepwater greens, red peppers, two free run poached eggs, hollandaise and chives while the gluten, dairy and nut free Lean Mean Vegan Machine is made up of blistered tomato, spinach, vegan egg omelet, vegan cheese, sriracha lime aioli and crispy garlic potato. And if you like Hawaiian pizza — and why wouldn’t you? — they do an amazing jacked-up forno version called Sweet and Salty Pig that is topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, sweet and spicy sausage crumble, sage pineapple, pickled jalapeño, Fior di Latte (sprinkled pieces of mozzarella) and chives. Pair that with the delicious Tea & Tomato — a salad comprised of green tomato, pickled red onion, arugula, goat feta and flavoured with a Rocky Mountain Wildflower Tea Vinaigrette — and you’ve got one of the best za and salad dinners anywhere;

— Also newly opened, Saffron Indian Bistro on Wolf Street serves up a delicious vegetarian thali for lunch — and their samosas are literally the best I’ve ever had; made fresh daily;

— 3 Bears Brewery & Restaurant is a must-visit for a variety of reasons: their patio on the pedestrian-forward Bear Street offers great views of Cascade Mountain; their homemade root beer is a delicious non-alcoholic bevvie; their soft-serve strawberry swirl ice cream is a perfect finish to any meal; but, it’s the confit ahi tuna melt served with a side of cheesy waffle fries that left the most lasting impression. Again, best-ever;

— Another new kid on the blocks, Shoku Izakaya is a Japanese pub serving traditional and modern fare as well as a few offerings from other Asian destinations. I sampled the ebi mayo — tempura prawns tossed in a Japanese mayo and tobiko; and Tako Yaki — dumplings with octopus chunks in a sweet and savoury sauce with nori flakes and bonito shavings. Both were tantalizing to the taste buds and rather representative of Banff’s new cuisine scene;

— There are many places in town to satisfy your sweet tooth — whatever time of the day that might be: from Beavertails to chocolate shops to artisan bakeries to COWS Banff ice cream. Of course, I sampled a number of these, but will also mention a lemon tarte at LUPO, a terrific Italian eatery at the base of Bear Street.

So, after fuelling up for five days — I think I’ve gained back five of those 45 pounds — it’s a gorgeous sunny morning, temperatures are in the mid-teens on this early October day and the setting couldn’t be better for my attempt to get to the top of that mountain.

About a kilometre into the climb, I come across a pair of 20-something fellows from Toronto; the consensus is, this is tougher than we thought it was going to be. While I must admit the thought crosses my mind, there’s no turning back this time.

The well maintained trail winds itself back and forth through a dense evergreen forest, with occasional clearings offering breathtaking views of the staggering peaks of the Sundance Range, Cascade Mountain, Lake Minnewanka, the Banff Springs Hotel and the Bow Valley. It’s also a neat experience to come across the openings where the gondola cars pass overhead.

Towards the end of the climb, I am re-joined by my young friends from southern Ontario. We chat about their first trip to Banff and I give them a few dining recommendations as we ascend the final two kilometres. As we reach the summit, they break out in huge smiles and thank me for the company. It’s been my pleasure, I tell them.

I’m rewarded at the top by a few things: a sense of accomplishment, magnificent views — and the knowledge that it’s time for more food..

Sky Bistro is a dining sanctuary in the sky. Whether you have climbed a mountain or taken the eight-minute gondola ride to the top, enjoying a meal with this view is a memorable occasion. The sun sets early at this time of the year and watching it descend behind a range of mountains is just one more view from the top.

Darkness has settled in as I take the gondola ride down the mountain after dinner and the lights of the village twinkle in the distance: I feel a deep sense of gratitude that I am able to be in this spot at this time. It’s hard not to feel blessed after all these years of visiting Banff — through all of life’s trials and tribulations — to have stood at the top of this particular mountain. My inner-child will always cherish that first hike, but my adult self will now also treasure the one it did 50 years later.

PS: the duck wings and short ribs at Sky Bistro are to climb for.

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