Autumn in the park

There was a time, not so long ago, when the arrival of autumn meant the departure of summer visitors and the inevitable closing of most shops and services in Wasagaming.

That has all changed for the town inside Riding Mountain National Park.

Throughout fall and even into winter, more than a dozen accommodation options invite visitors to come to Clear Lake.

Restaurants and shops extend their seasons to Thanksgiving, and some keep the doors open the entire year.

Turning leaves, quiet waters, misty mornings and that unmistakable smell of autumn outdoors make Riding Mountain National Park even more spectacular than its high season (according to this writer).

It’s a time when summer’s magic lingers in many ways, but the visitors are decidedly fewer and the sights and sounds are slower, easier to appreciate for just a little longer.

Here’s what you can expect on a shoulder season stay in the park.

 

1. Say spa

Fans of Nordic-style spas will love the laid-back vibes at the newest addition to Elkhorn Resort Spa & Conference Centre.

Klar So is definitely Danish in design with a pair of outdoor hot tubs flanking a proper cold plunge pool, a large dry sauna, a relaxation room with fireplace, soft sounds and heated loungers in addition to a pair of steam rooms with a salt scrub and shower station in between.

There’s also a pool where the temperature hovers around 90 F, so you can soak indefinitely.

Fireplaces and plenty of seating await after your snack at the spa bistro, where the Arctic burger tames big appetites and the peach flatbread or all-day parfait are best for lighter bites.

 

2. Bison time

Venture down the 30-kilometre gravel road that leads to the park’s most visited residents — a herd of captive bison at Lake Audy.

Back in 1931, 20 animals were relocated from Alberta to bring a little bit of wild back to the park.

They’ve been delighting visitors ever since by nudging up against vehicles on the drive-through roadway that offers an up-close-and-personal experience.

Along the way, keep your eyes peeled for moose, bear and elk.

 

3. Hike it out

The 4.1 km Brûlé Trail shares its start with other trails just off Highway 19 in the park.

This one is shaped like a figure eight, with a short loop and a long loop that takes hikers to picturesque Lake Kinosao.

When the snow falls, it’s time to strap on your snowshoes on this trail.

The parking lot is also the start of the Grey Owl Trail, named for Brit Archie Belaney, who took on an Indigenous identity (was he the first Pretendian?) and spread the conservation word to audiences beyond Canada after spending time in Riding Mountain National Park.

His cabin still stands at the end of the trail, offering visitors a glimpse into his life in the park.

 

4. Eat well

For more than three decades, T.R. McKoys has been dishing up Italian-inspired fare in the space that was once home to The Park Luncheonette.

Generations of visitors gather inside the log-clad room over irresistible calamari and steaming plates of penne with Italian sausage.

But get there soon — their season ends after Thanksgiving.

 

5. Pedal into the season

Stop into Friends of Riding Mountain National Park and rent a fat bike to tour the park’s diverse trails and rolling hills as the autumn leaves fall. And pick up a fabulous souvenir at the Friends Learning Centre too (they have the best stuffies).

The nonprofit group is dedicated to increasing awareness and appreciation of the park year-round.

In winter, they rent snowshoes, tubes, sleds and kicksparks (sled with handles) for plenty of winter fun.

 

6. Retail therapy

Splurge on an oh-so-cosy blanket at Lakehouse Café + Adventure Goods (open year-round), show your Riding Mountain pride with a logoed sweatshirt or pick up a couple of local candles.

It’s also the place to grab a coffee before your morning hike.

 

7. Lakehouse vibes

A big stone fireplace, warm wood walls and nostalgic images await diners inside cozy Lakehouse Restaurant.

Start with the Manitoba charcuterie board, add a hand-crafted cocktail and dig into the ooey-gooey goodness of truffle cream mac and jack cheese.

They’re open year-round!

 

8. Stay right here

There’s an accommodation option that will suit your style, including Geiler Corner All Season Resort, Lakehouse Hotel, Arrowhead Family Resort, Arbutus Cabins, Riding Mountain Luxury Cabins and Turtle Village, all located inside the park.

Just a stone’s throw outside the boundary are Elkhorn Resort Spa & Conference Centre, Riding Mountain House, Crooked Mountain Cabins, Fiddlehead Cabin, Honeycomb Bed and Breakfast, Northgate Trails and Smokey Hollow.