Farewell, finicky eater — at least for one night
Open mind key to enjoying RAW:almond's adventurous menu
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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 27/01/2018 (3108 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.
The biggest thing holding me back from attending RAW:Almond, aside from the cost, is that I’m not an adventurous eater.
I figured, at best, I’d be tasting 50-60 per cent of what was served to me, so it didn’t make sense to shell out more than $150, not to mention take the seat of someone who would truly love to be there.
But, in the name of journalism, an opportunity arose for me to attend and approach the meal from a non-foody’s perspective for you readers who, like me, don’t think RAW:Almond is your culinary cup of tea.
I promised columnist Jen Zoratti — who often makes fun of my plebeian palate on our podcast, Bury the Lede — that if she brought me as her guest, I would not take the situation for granted and would eat anything and everything that was put in front of me. And I did.
The first dish was what appeared to be a twig with a dried berry on it lodged into some snow with a shot of sauerkraut juice on the side. This is precisely what I expected the night to be like, to be honest, but it’s always a strange feeling when your fears are actualized.
As we dipped the fruit into the sauerkraut brine as instructed, I asked the man next to me if he ate the whole berry in one go, right off the stick. He said yes, so I did the same. It tasted delicious, but I am also fairly certain I ate part of the twig. So, there’s that.
The night progressed through four more courses and we tackled many items on my “do not eat” list, including raw fish (steelhead trout), liver (chicken and duck liver paté) and beets (borscht); some were more successful experiences than others, but by-in-large, most of the night’s menu was relatively accessible, even for me.
I will admit, however, I breathed a sigh of relief as I saw the final savoury course of the night start to roll out the kitchen — a wild-rice cabbage roll served with pork collar and a thick tomato sauce. Growing up in a Central European household, this plate was not a stretch for me, but I will say this was one of the best cabbage rolls I’ve ever had.
Finally, we ended with a dessert that was a kind of deconstructed cheesecake; a creamy, sweet cheese made by the chef that morning sat at the bottom of the bowl with a crumble of a graham-cracker-esque crust and a selection of berries on top. There were also a few pointy pine needles in the bowl, which were not my favourite part — I had already eaten a stick, after all — but the intention of adding a fresh flavour such as pine made sense.
The night was overall a positive experience; the ambience is unlike anything else I’ve encountered. The servers and chefs were all welcoming and attentive, the space itself was much more comfortable than I expected and we lucked out with a menu that was approachable for a fine-dining newbie like myself.
At that same time, though, I don’t know if I could in good conscience recommend this gastro adventure for those who prefer a more straightforward eating experience unless they’re prepared to approach it with a completely open mind. It’s a lot of money to drop on a meal, and if you’re not willing to jump in head first and try everything, it’s not the event for you.
erin.lebar@freepress.mb.caTwitter: @NireRabel
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