New finds in Vintages at the LCBO

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This article was published 29/07/2021 (1888 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The LCBO releases small lots of new wines every couple of weeks or so through its Vintages section, creating a treasure hunt of sorts. It’s where you go for a little something special. And you know you deserve a treat right about now. We all do. So here’s your shopping list of brilliant new releases now on shelf.

White wine lovers should snap up the 2019 Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore from the Marche region of Italy (Vintages 268169 $19.95). This charmer gleams the colour of cut-hay, teems with the fragrance of lemons and almonds, and sweeps in with satisfying weight and substance, purity and balance. Each sip slowly unfurls with allusions of lemon zest, ruby grapefruit, bitter almond and a breezy flutter of wildflowers before tapering to a long stony-salty finish that leaves the palate beautifully seasoned. Fabulous little organic wine at a modest price. And just ideal with a grilled, pan-fried or poached piece of fish. Score: 93

For those casual moments when you want to splash something that shines the palest shade of silvery salmon in your glass, there’s the 2020 Fielding Rosé, VQA Niagara Peninsula (Vintages 53421 $15.95). This blend of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Gamay exudes soft, subtle scents of stone fruit — apricot mostly, and maybe a touch of red plum. Then it rushes in light and lively —a dry, vivid burst of refreshment that tastes silky and subtle with suggestions of ripe raspberry, violet, sliced lemon and a squirt of grapefruit before fading to a long lime zest finish with a whisper of spearmint somewhere. Score: 91

An exciting red from Portugal worth your attention is the 2015 Quadrus from the Douro (Vintages 440305 $22.95). This thrilling little find proves that Portugal is so much more than a Port producing country. This dry, fabulous summer red made from native grape varieties — Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Sousao — slips in with bright red fruit laced with Portobello mushroom, red bell pepper, tomato leaf and rubbed oregano that lingers for ages. Its umami character makes it so morish that you just want to keep sipping. And it pairs magically with grilled ribs, sausage or a nibble of Manchego cheese. Outstanding value for money. Score: 93

The 2016 Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Rialzi Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Seleczione from Tuscany in Italy (Vintages 17682 $49.95) immediately draws you in with its quietly alluring bouquet. Sinuous scents shift from fruit to flowers, sweet spices to tobacco, roasted coffee to black earth and more. On the palate, cherry-tobacco-fig complexity washes in and tastes lamplit — just bright enough. Then, a more subtle tapestry of flavour emerges, revealing cherries and chalk, a dusting of cocoa, a touch of white pepper and more. This expressive, elegant Italian does not disappoint. But when it’s gone, it’s gone. Score: 96

Also certainly splurgeworthy is the 2017 The Calling Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley in Sonoma, California (Vintages 20689 $49.95). The fragrance of this hedonistic red is heavy with rich aromas of cassis and poached plum with a dusting of black pepper. The velvet entry is sumptuous, saturated but also full of finesse as each sip cascades with berries and plums, bitter chocolate, spice cake, hazelnut and a touch of slate. This wine delivers exactly what you want in a premium expression of Californian Cabernet. It has been meticulously made, is drinking beautifully right now, and would pair marvelously with grilled steak and potato at sunset. Score: 94

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So go ahead and treat yourself.

Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributing columnist for the Star. Wineries occasionally sponsor segments on her YouTube series yet they have no role in the selection of the wines she chooses to review or her opinions of those wines. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com