Sacred South Dakota

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This article was published 29/10/2022 (1078 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The landscape starts to roll ever so slightly, blanketed by endless grasslands that welcome grazing Angus, Hereford, Charolais, Limousin and Simmental herds. Atop the knolls sit abandoned two-storey farmhouses, their painted siding weathered to grey, window panes long gone, yellowing stalks of corn crops now skirting the silent porches. Redtail hawks zoom over the backs of burly bison while roadside signs promise hot coffee and hearty meals.

There’s something familiar, comfortable and heartwarming about this land. This is South Dakota.

Best known for its big attractions like Deadwood, The Black Hills and Mount Rushmore, the state also has a road less travelled, its eastern side, and luckily for Manitobans, it’s an easy day’s drive straight south down Interstate 29. Sioux Falls is South Dakota’s largest city with a population hovering around 200,000, making it easy to navigate but packed with impressive attractions, plenty of art and fabulous food.

Fans of boutique hotels rejoice! Hotel on Phillips started life as the Sioux Falls National Bank in 1918 and there’s no mistaking its first purpose. The opulent lobby features soaring ceilings, fluted columns and its original chandeliers, only to be overshadowed by the bank vault door — all 14 tonnes of it — that now serves as a walk through to the hotel’s lounge (more on that later). There’s also a coffee bar in the lobby for early risers in search of caffeine.

The guest rooms are all modern, a stark contrast to the historic vibe of the lobby, with walk-in showers, smart TVs and gourmet coffee machines. Back in the lobby, don’t miss the lounge. The Treasury at Hotel on Phillips features moody decor is accented with Indigenous art, sink-out-of-sight velvet chairs, craft cocktails and an inventive and revolving small bites menu. Opt for the oddly named pig wings, a tender pork cut on the bone that’s been frenched, sous vided, dusted, fried and finished with a sweet and spicy Korean sauce.

Take a day trip and head west with a first stop in Mitchell, home of the world’s only corn palace. Originally built in 1892 to showcase South Dakota’s healthy agricultural climate, it’s now an events venue and a place to stalk up on corny souvenirs (I had to). Mitchell is also home to the one-of-a-kind Einstein’s Vintage Clothing, Costume, and Formal Wear Sales, three packed floors of hats, jewelry, wigs, furs, vintage finds and costumes galore. Get lost in the western wear section, an entire room devoted to Shriner costumes or an unending aisle of 1950s crinolines.

Continue west for another hour until Dignity: Of Earth and Sky comes into view. It’s an easy stop, right off the interstate. The stainless steel, 15-metre-tall sculpture overlooks the Missouri River and honours the cultures of the Lakota and Dakota people. Like seeing mountain ranges in person, there’s something moving about her quiet grace and mesmerizing stare that leaves an impression.

Explore more Indigenous culture at the Akta Lakota Museum & Cultural Center in Chamberlain, just a few miles away. Intricate beadwork pieces, a display of star quilts, photographs and artifacts, including a pictographic bison robe, tell stories of the Lakota people. The gift shop is not to be missed, with artisan pieces like a purse made from a Pendleton blanket, buffalo fur and beadwork or an eagle sculpture in alabaster.

Chamberlain’s shining retail star is a kitchen store called Berry + Basil. As the owners like to stay, it’s a small-town shop with big city perks. They aren’t wrong. Cookware, gourmet foods, wine and dining accents are expertly displayed in the shop’s meandering alcoves. French made Staub cookware, posh Smeg small appliances and a self-sharpening knife block are the stuff of home cook dreams.

Back in Sioux Falls, get your retail therapy fix with a stroll down Phillips Avenue with stops at Zandbroz Variety, Child’s Play Toys and The Spice and Tea Exchange. Then opt for ultimate relaxation at The Spa on Phillips. The LaStone Massage is the perfect combination of relaxation and working on those knotted spots, all while atop a heated massage table. Be prepared to be blissed out.

Lawrence West promises that the fluff is in the frybread. And he delivers on that promise daily as the founder of Watecha Bowl, his restaurant, which is focused on Lakota street food. The tacos are what to order — a fresh, fried and fluffy bannock base loaded with taco meat, lettuce, cheddar, onions, salsa and sour cream. Daily specials include homemade soups, fried sweet corn and a South Dakota meat treat called chislic. For sweeter tastes, try the frybread topped with apples and cinnamon or indulge in the simplicity of frybread and wojapi, a thin, sweet fruit compote for dipping.

NOTE: Sioux Falls, South Dakota rests 750 km south of Winnipeg on US Interstate 29. The interstate speed limit in South Dakota is 80 miles per hour (128 km/h).

shel@shelzolkewich.com