Turkey tipples

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 06/10/2023 (973 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Dust off that gravy boat, bust out the decorative gourds and crack open that can of cranberry sauce — everyone’s favourite festive fall feast is back.

What wine to pair with Thanksgiving dinner is among the most common questions I field from readers. And as the guy who this weekend will likely be relegated to picking the wines for the meal (and maybe mashing the odd potato), I’m pleased to provide a few tips on what does and doesn’t work with the typical seasonal meal.

First off, what doesn’t tend to work with a usual Thanksgiving dinner is a big red wine. The mouth-drying tannins and higher alcohol levels in full-bodied reds tend to overwhelm the turkey, stuffing and various sides. Steer clear of big reds made from Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and the like.

For reds, stick with wines made from either the Pinot Noir or Gamay grape. They tend to produce lighter-bodied reds with softer tannins that will work best with your bird. The former grape often brings earthier, more rustic flavours (good for those savoury sides) while the latter is more fruit-forward and versatile — think of Gamay as the cranberry sauce of red wines.

On the white wine side of things, avoid big, heavily oaked Chardonnays — other than that, there are plenty of great options for your meal. Keep it simple with a Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, which tend to complement the meal, or for something similar but different, try a Spanish white, particularly those made from the Verdejo grape.

Dry to off-dry whites with ripe fruit and a bit of a spicy note can really work well with your turkey dinner — think Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Viognier or an Austrian Grüner Veltliner — as can a not-too-sweet Riesling.

Rosés can also tidily tangle with turkey and the trimmings, although more delicate pink wines (say, those from France’s Provence region) might be a touch too timid.

If lagers and ales are more your speed, fear not — there are tons of beer styles that partner well with Thanksgiving dinner. Check out how the spice in a saison or wheat beer works with the core flavours of the meal, or go with a heartier, malt-forward seasonal brew — think Vienna lagers, marzens, red ales and the like.

As for pumpkin ales? They tend to have some sweetness and offer those pumpkin-pie spices, making them decent pairings with dessert but not so much with the main course.

uncorked@mts.net

@bensigurdson

 

Drinks of the week

Dastardly Villain Brewing Co. The Evil Dr. Franc-N-Blanc French Blanche (Winnipeg — $3.90/473ml cans, Torque Brewing, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

A French-style wheat beer infused with coriander and orange peel, this brew is pale straw in colour and slightly hazy with big spice and orange-peel aromas that work well with the wheat and bright malt notes. It’s dry and light-bodied, leading with wheat, orange peel and spice flavours and brings very little hops before the modest, 4.7 per cent alcohol finish. Try with Thanksgiving turkey, ham or even sushi; it’s on sale (regular $4.40 a can) until the end of the month. 3.5/5

Torque Prost! Märzen (Winnipeg — $4.49/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors, Liquor Marts)

This Bavarian-style brew is medium copper in colour and clear, offering big upfront malty aromas, as well as toasted oat, biscuit and dried-fruit notes. It’s a robust, medium-bodied beer that offers rich malt and dried fruit flavours, very modest spice and hops and a touch of caramel before the slightly warm finish (it’s 6.3 per cent alcohol). Pour into an oversized stein and enjoy with glazed root vegetables, scalloped/mashed potatoes and turkey. 4/5

Nathalie Bonhomme 2021 El Petit Bonhomme Blanco (Rueda, Spain — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This organic Spanish white is made from the Verdejo grape sourced from 50-year-old bush vines grown in the Rueda region. It’s pale straw, and aromatically delivers ripe peach, pear, mango and melon notes, with subtle hints of spice and citrus. On the dry, light-plus-bodied palate the tropical and peach notes are most prominent, with secondary pear and ripe lemon notes, a touch of spice from modest oak aging and a medium-length, slightly chalky finish with moderate acidity. A fun Sauvignon Blanc/Pinot Grigio alternative. 3.5/5

Lubanzi 2022 Chenin Blanc (Swartland, South Africa — around $23, private wine stores)

Medium-straw in colour, this South African Chenin Blanc brings a lovely honeycomb and floral note that comes through aromatically, along with melon rind, ripe apple, chalk and peach aromas. On the viscous, medium-plus-bodied palate those flavours persist, with the ripeness and lovely textural components interacting beautifully, while a toasted nut note emerges on the relatively short finish. It’s complex yet remarkably tasty, drinking well now but also with the structure to be set aside until Christmas, Easter or next Thanksgiving. Available at Kenaston Wine Market and Jones & Co., possibly even in a 250ml can format. 4/5

Willm 2020 Reserve Gewürztraminer (Alsace, France — $23.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)

There’s a lovely marmalade aroma to this Alsatian white that comes with mandarin orange, tangerine, peach, mango and subtle spice notes as well. It’s light-plus-bodied and viscous, with mouth-coating tropical fruit and honeyed notes working well with the ripe/almost-sweet citrus flavours and that secondary spice note creeping in on the long, slightly warm finish (it’s 13.5 per cent alcohol). A great option with Thanksgiving turkey or even wild game, mild to medium-spicy curries or ham in a glaze. 4/5

Gérard Bertrand 2020 Cote de Roses Pinot Noir (Pays D’Oc, France — $19.74, Liquor Marts and beyond)

This southern French red comes in an attractive bottle, but what’s inside the bottle stands up as well — especially in the context of Thanksgiving dinner. It’s pale ruby in colour, with attractive raspberry, cherry, plum and spice notes, almost reminiscent of Beaujolais reds made from the Gamay grape. It’s dry, light-plus bodied and fruit-forward, bringing cherry, red berry, plum and blueberry notes with just a hint of an earthy note, plus modest tannins and acidity. Not mind-blowing, but the flavour profile makes it a home run with a turkey dinner. Plus it’s on sale (regular $21.99) until the end of the month. 3.5/5