Local brews to try while not changing your tires

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When a big early spring dump of snow hits, it’s easy to blame those who already switched out their winter tires.

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Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 28/03/2025 (572 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

When a big early spring dump of snow hits, it’s easy to blame those who already switched out their winter tires.

And while my own modest front-wheel drive hatchback is still rocking the winter rubber, I still feel partly to blame for our current wintry woes. The last couple of times I’ve done a roundup of new and notable brews, the bright prospect of spring has been quickly quashed by the mercury plummeting or, in this case, a fresh blanket of snow — a reminder that Manitoba is subject to at least two to three fake springs.

As we wait for warmer temps, here are a half-dozen local shoulder-season brews to whet your whistle, listed from lightest to heaviest/darkest. Some offer flavours of spring, while others offer heartier flavours to get you ready for one more round of snow-shovelling.

All were brewed in Winnipeg (if you’re going to buy Canadian, you might as well buy local), come in 473ml cans and are available at the respective breweries, beer vendors and Liquor Marts.

Sookram’s Margarita Cosmos

Sookram’s Margarita Cosmos

The Sookram’s Brewing Co. Margarita Cosmos Fruit Sour ($4.75) is, as the name suggests, the brewery’s margarita-themed riff on the Sookram’s Cosmos sour beer — here infused with orange juice, key lime purée and salt. It’s medium gold in colour and offers up-front green citrus aromas as well as saline, wheat and floral components. On the light-bodied palate the intense (but not quite mouth-puckering) sour and salty notes and the racy acidity bolster the almost-sweet lime notes, while the five per cent alcohol seems just about right. Pop a cocktail umbrella in here, close your eyes and imagine spring break somewhere warm. 3.5/5

Barn Hammer Monolithic Lotus IPA

Barn Hammer Monolithic Lotus IPA

Medium-gold in colour, the Barn Hammer Brewing Co. Monolithic No. 9 Lotus ($5.25) is the latest in the West End brewery’s Monolithic series of single-hop IPAs, this time featuring Lotus hops. The nose brings resinous, pine oil and grapefruit rind from said hops along with fresh citrus, oat and malty notes. It’s dry and medium-bodied, with the resinous, pine sap, citrus rind and grassy flavours from the hops out front, followed by tropical fruit and fresh malt components, medium-plus bitterness and, at 7.8 per cent alcohol, a long, warming finish. Should take the edge off any chill you might be feeling. 4/5

Half Pints Bulldog Amber Ale

Half Pints Bulldog Amber Ale

The tried-and-true Half Pints Brewing Co. Bulldog Amber Ale ($4.15) is a “British-pub style ale” that’s bright copper in colour and slightly hazy, with up-front Tootsie Roll, malt, toasted nut and herbal aromas. It’s dry, light-plus bodied and rich, with tasty caramel, malt, nutty and subtle herbal flavours, low bitterness and a medium finish (it’s 5.4 per cent alcohol). It’s easy to imagine escaping the chillier temps, sitting at a pub and sipping a pint of this while knocking back some fish and chips. 3.5/5

Little Brown Jug Danish Lager

Little Brown Jug Danish Lager

There may be white stuff all over the ground, but the can of the Little Brown Jug Danish Lager ($4.39) purports to be “blooming with the essence of spring.” It’s medium copper in colour and clear, with floral, red apple and caramel aromas that come with lovely underlying malt. It’s dry and light-plus bodied, with round caramel, biscuit, malt and apple flavours, no discernible bitterness and, at 5.7 per cent alcohol, a medium-length finish. It’s more robust than what you might consider a spring beer, but since spring’s not here yet in earnest anyway, it’s ideal for our current situation. 4/5

One Great City Buffalo Crossing Brown Ale

One Great City Buffalo Crossing Brown Ale

A collaboration with FortWhyte Alive, the One Great City Buffalo Crossing Brown Ale ($4.49) pays tribute to the plains bison and FortWhyte’s new Buffalo Crossing facility. The brew is dark cola brown in colour and aromatically delivers toffee, roasted malt, caramel and subtle hints of dried fruit and citrus (there’s some orange in this brown ale). On the rich and creamy palate the dark malt, caramel, toffee and toasted oat notes are slightly chewy, while the orange and dried fruit flavours add depth and complexity. There’s just a hint of bitterness, and the 5.75 per cent alcohol offers some warmth on the finish. Bundle up around a snowy fire and enjoy this exceptional brown ale. 4.5/5

Fort Garry Return to Helios Milk Stout

Fort Garry Return to Helios Milk Stout

The Fort Garry Brewing Co. Return to Helios Milk Stout ($4.49) is the latest in the brewery’s Brewmaster Series, and includes lactose; this stout is espresso brown in colour and brings mocha, vanilla, roasted dark malt, toasted oat and subtle dried fruit aromas. It’s full-bodied and just a touch off-dry, with the lactose adding a creamy texture to the coffee, mocha and vanilla flavours, the underlying barley and roasted malty notes coming with just a hint of bitterness, and the slightest smoky note on the medium finish (it’s 5.2 per cent alcohol). Try with some s’mores or chocolate cake. 4/5

uncorked@mts.net

@bensigurdson

Ben Sigurdson

Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer

Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press‘s literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.

In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press’s editing team before being posted online or published in print. It’s part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.

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