A feast of flavours

West End bistro offers modern take on indigenous comfort food

Advertisement

Advertise with us

If you want to talk about the notoriously elusive idea of Canadian cuisine, it helps to start with indigenous food. Feast, which opened late last year on the corner of Ellice Avenue and Sherbrook Street, offers a modern take on traditional First Nations ingredients, beautifully showcasing bison, pickerel, corn, wild rice, sunflower seeds and berries, along with some creative adaptations of bannock and fry bread.

Read this article for free:


or

Already have an account? Log in here »

To continue reading, please subscribe:

Subscribe and receive a limited-edition Free Press branded hat or tote.

Digital Subscription

One year of digital access for only $205*

  • Enjoy unlimited reading on winnipegfreepress.com
  • Read the E-Edition, our digital replica newspaper
  • Access News Break, our award-winning app
  • Play interactive puzzles

*First annual payment billed as $205.00 + GST for one year. This annual subscription will automatically renew at $233.00 + GST every 52 weeks (10% off the regular annual price of $259.35). Offer available to new and qualified returning subscribers only. Cancel any time.

To continue reading, please subscribe:

Add Free Press access to your Brandon Sun subscription for only an additional

$1 for the first 4 weeks*

  • Enjoy unlimited reading on winnipegfreepress.com
  • Read the E-Edition, our digital replica newspaper
  • Access News Break, our award-winning app
  • Play interactive puzzles
Start now

*Your next Brandon Sun subscription payment will increase by $1.00 and you will be charged $17.95 plus GST for four weeks. After four weeks, your payment will increase to $24.95 plus GST every four weeks.

Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 21/09/2016 (3633 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

If you want to talk about the notoriously elusive idea of Canadian cuisine, it helps to start with indigenous food. Feast, which opened late last year on the corner of Ellice Avenue and Sherbrook Street, offers a modern take on traditional First Nations ingredients, beautifully showcasing bison, pickerel, corn, wild rice, sunflower seeds and berries, along with some creative adaptations of bannock and fry bread.

Owner Christa Bruneau-Guenther offers up First Nations cooking in an open, airy, light-filled space finished with white-and-black semi-industrial decor. Well-positioned as a West End community hub —next to the Adam Beach Film Institute and the Bandwidth Theatre, and across from the West End Cultural Centre — Feast clearly has a lot of regulars, with servers greeting some customers by name.

There’s a lot of locavore-influenced comfort food here, served in hospitable amounts. In fact, if you’re eating lunch at Feast, you might want to plan for a light supper.

Feast owner Christa Bruneau-Guenther serves up a twist on First Nations cuisine.
Feast owner Christa Bruneau-Guenther serves up a twist on First Nations cuisine.

The stick-to-your-ribs chili ($9.75), satisfyingly seasoned but not spectacularly spicy, is made from grass-fed bison and a mix of beans and topped with made-in-Manitoba Bothwell cheddar. Piled-high “Indian tacos” ($9.25-10.75) start with a plate-sized circle of crisp fry bread, which is then heaped with bison chili or maple-chipotle chicken, shredded lettuce and salsa, and drizzled with lime-inflected sour cream.

The burger ($10.95), served on a crispy-chewy fried bannock bun, offers that genuine mayo-mustard messiness so beloved in our town. (Our server, knowing what’s what, brought extra napkins.) Garlicky mushrooms, an optional add-on, were slightly undercooked, but the bison patty was juicy and good. (You can swap in Winnipeg rye or multigrain for your burger or sandwich if the fried option seems too much.)

A very nice house salad ($7.45 or $9.45) is finished with sunflower seeds, dried cranberries and a well-balanced dressing spiked with Saskatoon berry syrup.

The house-made desserts vary day to day. The filling of a strawberry rhubarb pie was delish, fresh and not overly sweet, but the pastry didn’t quite match up, being a little soggy. There are also modestly priced baking staples such as blueberry muffins, a moist banana-walnut bread, and cinnamon-sugar bannock, available as coffee-time additions or to take out.

The café’s breakfasts include slight tweaks on standard diner classics, such as the Ellice platter ($7.95), which starts with bannock and intense Saskatoon jam. While the whites of the poached eggs were slightly watery, the bison sausage was lean without being dry, and the squash cakes, made with finely grated butternut, were fried up brown and tender-crisp.

There is also an indigenous take on eggs benedict ($9.95) — the poached eggs are served on bannock with lemon-chive hollandaise — and bannock-based breakfast sandwiches.

TREVOR HAGAN / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
Braydon Kirkness grabs one of the bannock buns served with a few Feast specialties.
TREVOR HAGAN / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Braydon Kirkness grabs one of the bannock buns served with a few Feast specialties.

During the work week, Feast is a daytime café, but it has started staying open on Friday and Saturday evenings. Many of its mains work well for supper, including bannock-based pizza and bison ribs basted with berry barbecue sauce.

Service is helpful, with the coffee pot circulating regularly for top-ups. Feast also offers kids’ meals, a nice, family-friendly menu option you don’t see so much these days.

alison.gillmor@freepress.mb.ca

Alison Gillmor

Alison Gillmor
Writer

Studying at the University of Winnipeg and later Toronto’s York University, Alison Gillmor planned to become an art historian. She ended up catching the journalism bug when she started as visual arts reviewer at the Winnipeg Free Press in 1992.

Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber.

Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.

Report Error Submit a Tip

More Stories

West End bistro offers modern take on indigenous comfort food

Alison Gillmor 4 minute read Preview

West End bistro offers modern take on indigenous comfort food

Alison Gillmor 4 minute read Wednesday, Sep. 21, 2016

If you want to talk about the notoriously elusive idea of Canadian cuisine, it helps to start with indigenous food. Feast, which opened late last year on the corner of Ellice Avenue and Sherbrook Street, offers a modern take on traditional First Nations ingredients, beautifully showcasing bison, pickerel, corn, wild rice, sunflower seeds and berries, along with some creative adaptations of bannock and fry bread.

Owner Christa Bruneau-Guenther offers up First Nations cooking in an open, airy, light-filled space finished with white-and-black semi-industrial decor. Well-positioned as a West End community hub —next to the Adam Beach Film Institute and the Bandwidth Theatre, and across from the West End Cultural Centre — Feast clearly has a lot of regulars, with servers greeting some customers by name.

There’s a lot of locavore-influenced comfort food here, served in hospitable amounts. In fact, if you’re eating lunch at Feast, you might want to plan for a light supper.

The stick-to-your-ribs chili ($9.75), satisfyingly seasoned but not spectacularly spicy, is made from grass-fed bison and a mix of beans and topped with made-in-Manitoba Bothwell cheddar. Piled-high “Indian tacos” ($9.25-10.75) start with a plate-sized circle of crisp fry bread, which is then heaped with bison chili or maple-chipotle chicken, shredded lettuce and salsa, and drizzled with lime-inflected sour cream.

Read
Wednesday, Sep. 21, 2016

Naked man dies after jolt from police Taser

Scott Billeck 5 minute read Preview

Naked man dies after jolt from police Taser

Scott Billeck 5 minute read Monday, Aug. 31, 2026

A Transcona man says he was lucky to be awake early Sunday when, shortly after 4 a.m., a stranger smashed through his screen door and kicked in the front door of his home.

“It’s all I can think about, like what if I was sleeping?” said the man, whom the Free Press is not naming to protect his identity. “Being awake gave me just a couple of extra seconds to deal with him before he got his whole body in.”

He was sitting on his couch when he heard the glass shatter and saw someone trying to force his way inside.

“Glass flew in and this guy — he was a big guy — tried to climb through the screen door,” the man said. “I hopped off the couch and just remember screaming for help. Well, of course it’s four in the morning, so nobody’s going to help, right? I wasn’t thinking straight.”

Read
Monday, Aug. 31, 2026

At last, some good news on homelessness

Editorial 4 minute read Preview

At last, some good news on homelessness

Editorial 4 minute read Yesterday at 2:00 AM CDT

There is no shortage of reasons to be frustrated about homelessness in Winnipeg. But the latest numbers provide something that has been increasingly difficult to find — evidence that at least some things are getting better.

Read
Yesterday at 2:00 AM CDT

Dynacare strike could lead to lab test logjam

Carol Sanders 4 minute read Preview

Dynacare strike could lead to lab test logjam

Carol Sanders 4 minute read Yesterday at 2:00 AM CDT

DOCTORS and health-care advocates are raising concerns about patient care if a Sept. 8 strike goes ahead at the private company that provides nearly all medical lab services in Manitoba.

There is no essential services agreement in place with Dynacare, so if its lab techs are off the job, patients who need blood tests and urinalysis will be directed to hospitals and public clinics for those services.

“There’s only so many of those workers and I’m sure that the public folks are bracing for big crunch of additional patients if the strike really goes ahead,” Noah Schulz of the Manitoba Health Coalition said Monday.

Dynacare serves 1.2 million Manitoba patients a year at 23 community lab locations.

Read
Yesterday at 2:00 AM CDT

Province announces free daycare for low-income families

Nicole Buffie 3 minute read Preview

Province announces free daycare for low-income families

Nicole Buffie 3 minute read 5:16 PM CDT

Eligible parents will have their child-care fees waived come Sept. 13.

Read
5:16 PM CDT

Woman who saved child, father from Red River uncomfortable with hero label

Scott Billeck 6 minute read Preview

Woman who saved child, father from Red River uncomfortable with hero label

Scott Billeck 6 minute read Updated: 5:53 PM CDT

A Winnipeg woman who’s been hailed as a hero by police for saving a father and his young child from the Red River says she doesn’t feel like one.

“I’m a mom… and I would do it again,” said Jayclyn Morrissette, who was walking with her neighbour through St. John’s Park on Aug. 24 when they spotted a young girl flailing in the nearby river. “I was meant to be there and that was supposed to happen.”

Morrissette, who spoke to the Free Press Wednesday after police released details about the rescue, said she and her neighbour began looking for the child’s parents and found them at the nearby playground searching for her.

Morrissette waved them over. The father, who she said could not swim, jumped into the river first and immediately began to sink.

Read
Updated: 5:53 PM CDT