Chain gang Free Press writers tuck into eight national and North American restaurant brands popular with Winnipeggers to taste their recipes for crowd-pleasing success By: Alison Gillmor, Jill Wilson and Stacey Thidrickson  Posted: 7:00 PM CST Friday, Dec. 7, 2018

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This article was published 07/12/2018 (2465 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Chain restaurants. Seems folks either love ‘em or hate ‘em.

There are the people who mercilessly pick on chains — the wait for a table, the atmosphere, the mammoth multi-page menus…

Oh, and the food. Especially the food.

But then there are the diners who find comfort in the ubiquity, discounts and myriad item choices the recognizable brands serve.

So, who’s right?

A trio of Free Press food enthusiasts — restaurant critic Alison Gillmor, arts and life writer Jill Wilson and associate editor Stacey Thidrickson — spent the last couple of months sinking their teeth into the matter.

They selected eight chains with a national or North American presence and based the list on the number of locations in Winnipeg (we have nine Boston Pizzas!), their popularity (have you seen the lineups outside an Olive Garden?) and places that offered a sit-down dining experience.

Full disclosure: they did not try everything on the menus — not even close. Instead, they visited each restaurant twice, sampling some popular menu items, meals and happy hours.

Some things they liked, some things they didn’t. But with the holiday season well upon us, the odds are pretty good that you’ll be dining at one after a long day of shopping or to satisfy visiting family members — particularly those accompanied by kids — with varying palates.

If that’s the case, here’s our gift to you.

Bon appetit.

 

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THE KEG

A lot of restaurant chains start in the U.S. and expand to Canada. The made-in-Canada Keg started in North Vancouver in 1971 — as The Keg ‘n Cleaver — and later moved into the American market.

The Keg’s core cuisine is classic steakhouse. The steak menu sets out descriptions of each stage of doneness, from blue-rare to well done, so you know what you’re getting.

A tender, tasty, well-trimmed top sirloin came the requested medium rare (“warm centre, red through”). You can also try the Chicago char, cooked to your specs on the inside and given a nice charred crust on the outside with the addition of butter.

Garlic mashed potatoes were good and creamy, with just a lump or two left in so you know they’re the real thing. The wedge salad, starting with iceberg lettuce and loaded with bacon, tomatoes, blue cheese and blue cheese dressing, was a tasty — and very rich — way to continue the old-school steakhouse theme.

Another retro charm is the bread. In a restaurant landscape where gratis bread baskets have become increasingly rare, The Keg brings warm sourdough bread to the table to get you started.

Once you go beyond the traditional steakhouse territory, dishes can get a little uneven. Tuna tartare featured firm, fresh fish but was a bit bland. Fried chicken was more like a schnitzel, though nice enough, and accompanying slaw was very good, livened up with cilantro and lemon.

The Keg’s signature dessert is a super-sweet slab of Billy Miner pie: mocha ice cream on a chocolate wafer crust drizzled with fudge and caramel sauces.

The Keg’s Winnipeg locations offer limited reservations, which might be a good idea, as there can be a wait for walk-in patrons, especially on weekends. At the Southside Keg on McGillivray Boulevard, we were seated in the lounge, where the ambience was comfortable, not overly loud, with warm, low lighting and professional service.

The Garry Street Keg also had a welcoming feel, and come summer, this downtown spot is known for its swell patio.

Winnipeg locations (3): 115 Garry St., 2553 Portage Ave., 2034 McGillivray Blvd.

Claim to fame: There are those steaks, of course, but the loaded-up garlic cheese toast also has a lot of passionate devotees.

Licensed: Yes. Along with an extensive wine menu, with plenty of by-the-glass options, The Keg is known for its caesars.

Affordability: The Keg comes in at the higher end of the chain price range (Keg cuts run from $25 to over $40), but when it comes to red meat, the resto offers consistency and good quality for the money.

Reason for selection: The chain has deep roots here in town, with many Winnipeggers associating The Keg with celebration dinners.

Family friendly: There is a kids’ menu, including shaved prime rib sliders for the sophisticated under-12 set.

Fun fact: The Billy Miner pie is named after Canada’s first train robber, also known as “the Grey Fox” and “the Gentleman Bandit.”

Final impression: Pricey but worth the splash, especially if you stick with the traditional steakhouse dishes.

— Alison Gillmor

 

 

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OLIVE GARDEN

The Olive Garden, which specializes in familiar Italian-American dishes, has only six restaurants in Canada, and Winnipeg’s got two of them.

We should start — as most Olive Garden meals do — with the endless breadsticks.

As a crucial part of the famous special that offers unlimited soup, salad and breadsticks (the price ranging from $11.49 to $14.99, depending on time of day), they are carby comfort food — a little warm, a little soft and a little salted. The chicken and gnocchi soup was a letdown, the broth a bit over-thickened and the gnocchi gluey from a long soak, but the house salad was a fresh-tasting mix of greens, tomatoes, olives and pepperoncini with a zingy vinaigrette.

The pasta dishes were generally reliable, the noodles properly cooked and properly tossed with their sauces. There’s a create-your-own pasta option (starting at $14.99) that allows you to pick your noodles, your sauce and optional add-ons, which include meatballs, Italian sausage, grilled chicken and sautéed shrimp.

Traditional Italian-American restaurants are often called “red-sauce joints,” and the OG’s red sauces — marinara and meat sauce — were the best, the marinara tasty and the meat sauce savoury. The alfredo sauce, on the other hand, was a bit stodgy.

Of the more ambitious dishes on offer, the chicken piccata was a good bet, the boneless chicken breast lightly browned and the sauce lemony and light and getting some added flavour from capers and sun-dried tomatoes.

The Olive Garden has also picked up the trend of mini-desserts. Their “dolcini” lineup includes a limoncello mousse, creamy and light and finished with shavings of white chocolate, which is adorable — and affordable, at $3.99.

The décor feels a bit dated — kind of 1980s-style Tuscan-kitchen — but both the Polo Park and Transcona locations are currently being buffed up and renovated, bit by bit.

Service is genuinely warm. Not only will servers keep bringing you breadsticks, they will do it cheerfully. The dinner rush can get crowded, but the resto website provides regularly updated info on wait times, along with the opportunity to reserve a spot in line.

Cuisine: Italian-American

Winnipeg locations(2): 1544 Portage Ave. (across from Polo Park), 51 Reenders Dr.

Claim to fame: Those breadsticks!

Licensed: Yes, with an Italian-focused, user-friendly wine selection. Many menu items include suggested wine pairings.

Affordability: The prices are reasonable, and you can boost the savings with (very) early dinner specials, Monday to Thursday, 3-5 p.m., starting at $13.99 And did we mention you can get never-ending breadsticks, soup and salad?

Reason for selection: The Olive Garden has dedicated diners year-round, but ‘tis the season for its mall-adjacent locations to draw weary, hungry holiday shoppers.

Family friendly: Yes, indeed. The Olive Garden’s motto is: “We’re all family here.” There is a kids’ menu for the small ones, but we also noticed several tables of parents with huge teenagers, probably taking advantage of those infinite breadsticks.

Fun fact: In 2012, then-85-year-old Marilyn Hagerty’s earnest, enthusiastic review of a North Dakota Olive Garden went viral, exposing her to much foodie disdain. The late Anthony Bourdain gallantly came to her defence, praising her good-heartedness as an antidote to the snark and snobbery often seen in the food world.

Final Impression: It’s not quite a trip to the Tuscan countryside, but with affordable takes on Italian favourites, the Olive Garden offers a wallet-friendly way to feed the whole family.

— Alison Gillmor

 

 

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SMITTY’S

When it first opened in Canada nearly 60 years ago, Smitty’s was known for one thing: pancakes.

But the nationwide restaurant chain has spread its wings, making a name for itself with — you guessed it — wings.

On an early Thursday evening at Smitty’s on Pembina Highway near Grant Avenue, the lounge was packed with patrons watching hockey and football, drinking draft beer and devouring wings — more than two dozen varieties, both crispy and saucy. Wings are 59 cents a piece here on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from 3 p.m. to close. And bonus, you can get a minimum of six wings per order, allowing for more sampling.

The wings did not disappoint. Plump and juicy, the saucy hot-and-honey wings were a satisfying mix of sweet and heat, while the dry shaker spice were crispy and salty (in a good way) with a nice hit of oregano. Dipping sauce is extra.

The other bar snacks weren’t as impressive. While the fried pickles with a tangy dill dipping sauce were a treat ($9.49), the mozzarella sticks ($10.49), served with a side of watery, oregano-heavy marinara sauce, were clearly store bought. The Texas skins ($12.39), advertised as potato skins loaded with a three-cheese blend, taco beef, bacon bits and green onions, were more spud than anything else. (Smitty’s offers lots of happy hour specials that include appetizers).

Breakfast at the Garden City Shopping Centre’s Smitty’s was relatively well executed as far as basic breakfasts go, but it wasn’t easy on the wallet at nearly $30 with tax for two. Factor in that we ordered off the discounted early bird menu, which offers four items at about half the price of regular breakfast offerings. (”Eye Opener” specials are served from 7 to 11 a.m. Monday-Friday, excluding holidays).

The side of two pancakes were fluffy, light and comforting, and the coffee was fresh and strong. The basic breakfast of eggs and bacon, served with your choice of two sides, was cooked to perfection. The half eggs Benedict — one poached egg with a slice of back bacon and hollandaise sauce on a grilled English muffin — was a little bland and the muffin was soggy, but the fresh fruit cup served with it was packed with strawberries, bananas, melon and pineapple (you could also opt for hash browns).

Service was friendly and prompt.

Cuisine: Family fare.

Locations in Winnipeg (8): Garden City Shopping Centre, 1017 St. James St., 1919 Henderson Hwy., 1512 Regent Ave. W., 150 Meadowood Dr., 580 Pembina Hwy., 2835 Pembina Hwy., 477 Westwood Dr.

Claim to fame: Pancakes and wings.

Licensed: Yes. Daily happy hour specials include half-price bottles of wine and draft nights.

Affordability: There are plenty of happy-hour specials plus a discounted seniors and kids menu. Smitty’s lounges also offer many discounted items until closing.

Reason for selection: Smitty’s is ubiquitous in Manitoba, with 14 locations.

Family friendly: The chain prides itself on it, offering an affordable children’s menu.

Fun fact: Smitty’s has locations in every province except Quebec.

Final impression: Basic family fare with pleasant service but no ambience. Smitty’s lounges provide an appropriate locale for sports lovers to watch the game, enjoy a few beers and sample a whack of wings on the cheap.

— Stacey Thidrickson

EARLS

There has been much debate over the years about Earls’ predilection for hiring female servers who look, um… a certain way. (For the record, the North American chain amended its dress code in 2016 to give women the option of wearing pants instead of skirts).

On two recent visits to Earls in Winnipeg, there was only one thing to say about the service — it was top-notch.

And the food was mostly impressive, too. Earls does a good job with its menu, offering a wide variety of dishes with an above-average level of creativity and flavour.

On this fall Tuesday noon-hour at Earls Polo Park, we started with a creamy caesar salad. The tangy garlic and lemon dressing had a nice hint of anchovy. The romaine lettuce, if a tad too cold, was perfectly dressed and the croutons were big and crunchy. 

The spicy Chicken Hunan Kung Pao was an ample serving loaded with meat, vegetables, noodles and Asian-inspired flavours. You can customize the heat by choosing one to six hunan peppers.

But the Bigger Better Burger was anything but. The beef patty was thin and overcooked, with barely-there condiments and skimpy toppings (the brioche bun was probably the best thing about it). However, the fries served alongside it were nearly perfect — thin, crispy and salty, but not greasy.

Lunch for two was nearly $50 with tax (and without beverages).

Happy hour, available daily in Earls lounges between 3 and 6 p.m., and 9 p.m. to closing, is a better choice for the frugal-minded. You can fill up by sampling more than 15 menu items at a fraction of the price of lunch or dinner.

On a Sunday afternoon at Earls Main Street, we sampled five happy-hour appetizers, all amply portioned, for just over $40, including tax. 

While the Leroy’s Crispy Ribs were dry and a bit tough, the Warm Spinach and Three Cheese Dip, served with grilled bread, was a fresh and flavourful take on the tired classic, loaded with herbs and topped with feta. The Hawaiian Coconut Prawns were a bit generic, but the curry mayo dipping sauce and Thai-inspired salad with papaya and mango were nice accompaniments.

The personal-sized margherita pizza was a delight, with light and chewy dough and lots of cheese, but it could have used more basil. The Street Chicken Tacos were nicely balanced; the meat was deeply flavoured with chipotle and served with onion, tomato, lettuce and hot sauce.

Be aware that Earls can get very busy during happy hour. We tried to get a table in the lounge downtown on a Friday at 4:30 p.m., but gave up a half-hour later, so go early or go patient.

Cuisine: American fusion.

Locations in Winnipeg (3):  Polo Park, 1455 Portage Ave.; St. Vital, 1215 St. Mary’s Rd.; 191 Main St.

Claim to fame: Happy-hour specials and Earls girls, although the company appears to be distancing itself from the latter.

Licensed: Yes. Daily happy-hour drink offerings including wine, beer, spirits and a nice mix of cocktails.

Affordability: Meals range from about $15 (basic burger) to over $40 (steak and lobster). Happy hour offerings, starting as low as $4 for the margherita pizza, are the best bang for your buck.

Reason for selection: Earls has been a staple in Winnipeg since the late-1980s.

Family friendly: While they won’t turn away children, the target market is 100 per cent adult.

Fun fact: Winnipeg native Delane Diseko, who started with Earls as a dishwasher at the former Pembina Highway location in 1998, is now the chain’s executive chef and based in Chicago.

Final impression: Palatable food, attractive atmosphere and great service, offering a wide range of food options to satisfy most tastes, but prepare to pay, unless you’re ordering off the happy-hour menu.

— Stacey Thidrickson

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APPLEBEE’S

Applebee’s offers a wide-ranging menu with lots of casual dining options. And for bargain-loving Winnipeggers, the chain is known for an ever-changing array of special offers.

The appetizer sampler ($19.99) includes riblets, the meat very tender and the Memphis-style barbecue sauce skewing to sweet rather than spicy; some crazy-rich spinach and artichoke dip; mozza sticks with marinara; plain and pretty dull tortilla chips with salsa and sour cream; and quesadillas. It would go well with a pitcher of beer, but the platter could have used more salsa – and the salsa could have used a bit more zip.

A current “two can dine for $45” allows you to pick from an abbreviated menu — you can split an appetizer, get two entrées and then split a dessert. The bruschetta app was somewhat sabotaged by wan winter tomatoes, but a sirloin steak, served up with mashed red-skinned potatoes, was juicy and tasty although on the thin side. (And if you’re looking for a Bud, a spud and a steak, Applebee’s currently offers Budweiser and Bud Light for $2, all day, every day.)

Another entrée option was the crispy brewhouse chicken, which included mashed potatoes and Guinness stout gravy — though the Guinness flavour was elusive — along with cheese and onion rings. This all came in one big pile, however, which sort of buried the crispy chicken.

The brownie dessert offered with the special was very much the gooey, chocolatey kind, complemented with vanilla ice cream, and more than enough for two sane people.

Applebee’s menu makes a tactful division between Feel Good Food and Better For You Food, which includes some lower-fat items. The resto also offers a few vegetarian and gluten-free choices.

We tried the Grant Park location, which goes for a rustic vibe with sporty memorabilia and lots of TV screens near the bar area, and the Pembina Highway venue, which is a bit more contemporary. 

Service at both was obliging and prompt. 

Cuisine: Casual Americana

Winnipeg locations (3): 1150 Grant Ave., 2065 Pembina Hwy., 1598 Regent Ave. W.

Claim to fame: Applebee’s Fiesta Lime Chicken is a registered trademark.

Licensed: Yes, with rotating drink offers for every night of the week.

Affordability: Applebee’s prices run in the mid-range, and there are a whole lot of specials — early dining, happy-hour, weekly, monthly and seasonal specials — that can get the final dollar-figure down. The chain also offers a seniors discount of 15 per cent for diners 55 and up.

Reason for selection: The chain has a loyal fan base, especially among Winnipeg seniors. (See above.)

Family friendly: The Applebee’s crowd generally skews older, but there is a children’s menu and a current Wednesday-night special with kids eating for $2.99 with the purchase of an adult entrée.

Fun fact: The first, founding resto was called T.J. Applebee’s Rx for Edibles & Elixirs.

Final Impression: The fare is hit-and-miss, but Applebee’s offers a range of casual dining fare and bar snacks for bargain-hunting diners.

— Alison Gillmor

 

 

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PERKINS RESTAURANT & BAKERY

When it comes to Perkins, you almost have to admire Winnipeggers’ sustained commitment to mediocrity. The venerable North American chain has 359 locations in the United States and 16 in Canada — six of which are in Winnipeg.

We visited the McPhillips Street location for breakfast, which is served all day long. The Build-a-Breakfast ($9.89) gives customers a chance to customize their egg with add-ons. Bacon was requested crispy; it came fully cooked but with the texture of jerky, clearly fried quite some time before serving. The biscuits were chokingly dry and the carafe of coffee weak and watery. 

The breakfast skillets ($13-ish) mask the shortcomings of the individual ingredients in a greasy but very satisfying mish-mash, but the strawberry croissant french toast is a misguided concept, negating the whole appeal of a croissant (flakiness) by soaking it in egg. 

Trying out lunch at the Polo Park-area location, the budget-concious Lunch Duo and Trio ($10 and $14) let you pick from items in two or three of four categories — soup, half-sandwich, salad and dessert. In our Trio, the chicken-noodle soup was just OK, and filled with chunks of something poultry-like but with the texture of canned tuna. The roast beef in the beef dip sandwich was stringy and tough, the grilled onions barely cooked (not to mention the huge chunk of inedible core), and the dollop of melted cheese only covered half the sandwich.

The filling of the super-sweet chocolate French silk pie was indeed silky, but the shortbread crust was tasteless and the oily “whipped cream” topping caused a fellow diner to screw up her face in disgust and ask, “What IS that?”

The Southwest avocado salad ($14.29) showed the folly of putting photographs on the menu. Rather than a beautifully composed bowl of blackened chicken, black bean-corn relish and avocado on bed of green lettuce, what arrived was the equivalent of meeting your hot Tinder date in person. Composed mostly of past-its-prime iceberg (from a bag, judging by the bits of red cabbage) with a bunch tortilla straws chucked thoughtlessly on top of it, it had only sparse relish (though the chicken was plentiful and the slices of avocado perfectly ripe, if apparently hurled blindly at the plate). The zippy chipotle ranch dressing almost redeemed the whole business, however.

Service during the lunch rush was friendly but slapdash — cutlery had to be requested, an ordered pop never arrived — and notably slow. The one $3 pop that did arrive was never refilled. They do excel at service for large groups, however, with meals timed properly and never-ending coffee.

Cuisine: Family food

Winnipeg locations (6): 1275 Henderson Hwy.; 1615 Regent Ave.; 1629 Kenaston Blvd.; 2142 McPhillips St.; 2675 Portage Ave.; 305 Madison.

Claim to fame: All-day breakfasts, with a spotlight on the buttermilk pancakes. The restaurants also have on-site bakeries serving their trademarked Mammoth Muffins and pies.

Licensed: Yes. And lord knows you might need a drink to get through the meal.

Affordability: Regular prices seem high for what you get — almost $50 for three breakfasts with coffee and tip, for example — but if you plan shrewdly, there are lots of savings to be had, including the Lunch Duo or Trio, daily deals and late-night offer of half-price appetizers, all-you-can-eat pancakes for $5.99 and a cheeseburger, fries and soft drink for $10.99.

Reason for selection: With locations in every corner the city, it’s impossible to ignore and undeniably popular, with lineups at lunch and on weekends for breakfast/brunch.

Family friendly: Families are Perkins’ raison d’etre. The restaurant’s Kid Perks menu is designed for little ones (they also get crayons) and the seniors’ section of the menu has smaller portions at cheaper prices. Any restaurant offering both rainbow pancakes and liver and onions knows its audience.

Fun fact: The chain, which is celebrating its 60th anniversary, got its start in Cincinnati, Ohio, as Perkins Pancake House. It’s named for its founders, brothers Matt and Ivan Perkins.

Final impression: This is the reason chains have a bad name: tired decor, dated menu and a massive selection that ensures no one thing is done well. It’s a place to go with family members when socializing, not food, is the focus.

— Jill Wilson 

 

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BOSTON PIZZA

BP, as it’s familiarly known, was founded by Greek immigrant Gus Agioritis in Edmonton in 1964. Since then it has grown into Canada’s largest casual dining chain, with 380 locations in Canada (there are locations in the U.S. and Mexico operating under the name Boston’s The Gourmet Pizza).

At the bustling Polo Park-area location, where there was a line out the door by 6 p.m. on a Saturday, we sat in the lounge to try three pizzas: Tuscan, Mediterranean and the gourmet thin-crust potato bianca. The regular pies ain’t cheap ($14 for a 10-inch small) and the fancy variety even less so ($15.99). But the former hit all the takeout-style pizza buttons: slightly chewy crust, gooey cheese and plentiful toppings. The Tuscan — cheddar, chicken breast, roasted garlic, fresh spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and feta — was packed with flavour and the Mediterrean was loaded with artichoke hearts and pesto. Both were just as good eaten cold the next morning.

The potatoes on the bianca, however, though very thinly sliced, had an almost-raw texture and the honey in the sauce was too sweet.

On a Saturday night at the Cityplace location — a zoo on Jets game nights; reservations are recommended — there was a brisk takeout business, but the restaurant was quiet. Our selected starters — fried wings in Memphis hot sauce ($12.99), Thai chicken bites ($13.99) and spicy Italian flatbread ($14.99) — were steeply priced for the portions.

The Memphis sauce was mouth-tingling but the “famous wings” underneath it were fatty and unpleasant. Flatbread was decent, although it tasted like something you’d make at home on pizza night. Only the tasty Thai bites, crisply breaded, were satisfying (though the advertised Asian noodles and carrots were more garnish than anything else).

Service is friendly and efficient, and there are lots of gluten-wise and vegetarian options. The website helpfully provides walk-in wait times.

Cuisine: Pizza, pasta and bar food

Winnipeg locations (9): 66-333 St. Mary Ave.; 690 St. James St.; 210-1615 Regent Ave. W.; 1160 Taylor Ave.; Unit A-2211 McPhillips St.; 1475 Henderson Hwy.; 1919 Bishop Grandin Blvd.; 2517 Portage Ave.; 3894 Grant Ave.

Licensed: Yes. A big component of the chain’s appeal is its sports-bar lounge, which offers local brews among the options.

Claim to fame: The ‘za, but the Boston Brute — a hoagie topped with Genoa salami, pepperoni, smoked ham, mozzarella, onions and pizza sauce — has passionate fans.

Family friendly?: You betcha. The kids menu has two sections, for smaller and bigger appetites — and what kid wouldn’t love eating worms and dirt (gummy worms in chocolate pudding) for dessert?

Reason for selection: Its vast menu (perhaps too vast) does really include something for everyone; the combo restaurant/sports bar concept appeals to a broad audience. And there are nine (!) locations in Winnipeg; by way of comparison, Toronto proper has four.

Affordability: Like many of the chains we visited, BP is pricier than you’d expect ($26 for medium pies; $19 for lasagna), but the portions guarantee leftovers. The Appy Hour is a great bargain, with $4 sleeves (13 ounces) of domestic beer and $4 select appetizers, and all kids menu items are $7.99.

Fun fact: BPs are renovated every seven years.

Final impression: A reliable, unfussy option with a family-friendly atmosphere in the resto and a lively atmosphere in the lounge. Great for groups.

— Jill Wilson 

 

 

 

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BROWNS SOCIALHOUSE

A relative newcomer to the Winnipeg scene, Browns, which was founded in 2008 in Vancouver and is one of Canada’s most rapidly expanding chains, combines the feel of a modern-but-classic tavern with an upscale sports bar. Though the locations aren’t identical, there’s a common esthetic, with an emphasis on design — luxe furnishings, funky light fixtures and a shakeup of the way restaurants are usually laid out. (No licence plates on the walls or “flair” here.)

At the downtown location, you can largely avoid the ubiquitous enormous high-def TVs by sitting in one of the handsome red-leather booths on the restaurant side, but the noise levels are tougher to ignore. (In summer months, the large patios will be hopping.)

The menu isn’t overlong — no multi-page binder here — and along with the expected burgers and fries, it offers an interesting selection of elaborate salads and bowls that allow you to feel as if you’re making the healthy choice.

Browns does well with Asian flavours — the cravable ahi tuna crunch salad ($18.45) is gingery and zingy with lime, and generous with the perfectly rare tuna slices, while the #28 Dragon Bowl (with chicken or tofu, $17.95) has the fresh crunch of cabbage and broccoli stems (not overcooked to mush) to offset the creamy yogurt dressing with a hint of spice.

Of course, sometimes you just want fried comfort food, and the Nashville Hot chicken sandwich ($16.95) fits the bill. It might not pass muster in a Tennessee chicken shack, but close enough: the crispy skin covers moist meat and it’s got real heat that lingers, with an added kick from the comeback sauce (a traditional mayo-chili southern condiment). The accompanying fries — thick, but not steak-cut, with a bit of skin — are hot out of the fryer with a tender interior.

On the higher end, the steak and sushi combo ($26.95) is an unusual pairing done quite well — the six-ounce sirloin prepared exactly medium-rare as requested; the spicy tuna roll a bit soggy — but not rave-worthy. You’d be better off saving your steak and sushi splurge for a steakhouse or a sushi joint.

The only appetizer sampled was the ripe-for-cliché avocado toast, which was an addictive snack, served on a thick slice of chewy bread drizzled with oil and topped with savoury parm; the $10.95 price was a bit of a shocker, though.

The portions are designed to be filling, not gut-splitting (at the prices, however, you might expect leftovers).

In a nod to modern customers, it features several gluten-free and vegetarian options. Brunch is served on weekends from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.; the downtown location is open until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Service is casual, but practiced and warm.

Cuisine: Gastropub fare 

Winnipeg locations: 207-1750 Plessis Rd.; 311 Portage Ave.; 2419 Main St.

Licensed: Yes — there’s a decent cocktail list, rotating beer taps and a consumer-friendly New World wine list, as well as a well-priced house white, red and lager. All three locations offer Social Hour from 3 to 6 p.m. and Reverse Social Hour from 9 p.m. to close, with decent drink and appetizer discounts.

Affordability: It ain’t cheap. Dinner for two with a couple of alcoholic drinks will probably set you back $100.

Reason for selection: In the sophisticated-dining deserts of Kildonan Green and Ridgecrest, Browns is an oasis — it’s a great option for dinner before a show at Club Regent Event Centre — while its arena-adjacent downtown location is buzzy whether there’s a game on or not.

Family friendly: It not anti-kid by any means, but the vibe and the prices are decidedly adult.

Fun fact: Founder Scott Morison rips out photos from trade travel magazines as decor inspirations.

Final impression: A nice addition to the premium casual restaurant market in Winnipeg — you’d feel at home in a Jets jersey or in a suit — Browns offers an elevated take on the consistent chain experience.

— Jill Wilson