Whisky river, don’t run dry Festival offers tipples from far and wide, and from close to home By: Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson Posted: 7:00 PM CST Tuesday, Mar. 3, 2020 Last Modified: 10:24 AM CST Wednesday, Mar. 4, 2020 Updates

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This article was published 03/03/2020 (2269 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

When it comes to whisky, Winnipeggers certainly seem to give a dram. Canadian whisky alone makes up about 25 per cent of all spirits sales in Manitoba, with steady growth in American, Scotch and Irish whiskies in our market as well.

So it should come as no surprise that the Winnipeg Whisky Festival continues to grow both in terms of scope and popularity. The eighth annual event, which takes place Friday and Saturday at the Fairmont Winnipeg, is poised to be the biggest yet, with more than 170 spirits being poured, including 150 whiskies from many corners of the world, as well as a handful of vodkas, gins, tequilas, cognacs and more.

“This is a whisky festival in a whisky market,” says Aaron Alblas, Manitoba Liquor Mart product ambassador and avid whisky enthusiast. He points to the seasonal releases Manitoba Liquor Marts have been staging as proof that there’s a thirst for high-end, limited-release whiskies in the market, including single-barrel offerings.

“Things like the single-barrel program, with products you can’t really get in other provinces, are on par or above similar programs in other markets. Recently we’ve had these events around these special releases — there are always lineups, and a lottery for your right to purchase these whiskies. Everyone’s always looking for something new.”

And while perusing the program guide and planning your attack is a noble endeavour that can be useful, sometimes even the best-laid plans don’t pan out as expected. “I usually go where the large crowds of people aren’t,” says Alblas. “Then I can spend more time with people behind the booth, pick their brain, try a couple whiskies and then move on.”

For Canadian whisky writer David de Kergommeaux, whose next book, The Definitive Guide to Canadian Distilleries, will be published March 31, the ability to taste through one distillery’s offerings in a festival setting is key. “I like to go through one table and go through the range — so you learn something about the producer, or different ages of whiskies, or different finishes,” he says by phone from Victoria, where he recently chaired the 10th annual Canadian Whisky Awards.

While the famous Canadian whiskies — think your basic Canadian Club, Crown Royal and the like — drive spirits sales in Manitoba, de Kergommeaux believes festival-goers should explore all manner of products offered by distillers in this country.

“This year’s winning whisky at the Canadian Whisky Awards was the Pike Creek 21-year-old made by Hiram Walker & Sons, one of the largest beverage alcohol distilleries in North America,” de Kergommeaux says. “You couldn’t ever hope for a more finely hand-crafted whisky — it totally blew my mind.”

And while there are plenty of high-end Scotch and American whiskies being poured at the fest, Alblas is equally enthusiastic about Canadian products. “There’s such a wide variety of styles because of the lack of restrictions on production that, in my mind, it’s the most interesting category. Distillers can blend, you can use oak of all ages, you can get away with a more artful, inspired product.”

Trend-wise, de Kergommeaux has seen (and tasted) a number of promising developments from Canadian distillers. “The art of whisky-making is again being introduced in Canada. I’m seeing the re-emergence of the art of blending; Crown Royal is really knocking it out of the park with some of their blended whiskies… We’re also starting to see people use more finishing on whiskies — French oak, sherry casks and the like…

“If you look at a very high level, whiskies with a lot of rye grains in them are really being favoured,” he says, noting the spicy notes from the grain that helped propel Crown Royal’s Northern Harvest Rye to critical acclaim continues to excite whisky drinkers.

And while there are no hard and fast rules to the best way to enjoy a whisky festival — or any spirits or alcohol tasting, for that matter — a handful of tips and tricks can certainly make for a more enjoyable, eye-opening event.

First up, the most obvious pointer is to avoid driving: take a cab, use public transit or get a ride to any tasting. The Winnipeg Whisky Festival offers guests a taxi voucher to help them get home safely.

Staying hydrated and taking breaks to have some food is always a good idea, and the food offered at the Winnipeg Whisky Festival includes a number of themed food stations (sushi, poutine, cheese, tacos and the like) for those who need a break from those big spicy beverages.

“You’re dealing with one of the most non-neutral spirits you can get, and that’s what the food’s there for,” Alblas says, adding that it also encourages guests to experiment with their own whisky-and-food combinations — especially slightly spicier fare. “That pleasant warming that comes from the drink is similar to the spice that comes from the food. So they go quite well together.”

Don’t feel pressured to finish every sample poured for you. “I think it’s important to remember you don’t have to drink all the whisky in your glass — taste it, form your impressions and throw the rest in the spit bucket,” says de Kergommeaux. “The person who poured it for you isn’t going to be insulted or hurt; they realize you’re trying to save your palate and stay sober.”

 

One factor that can greatly impact a whisky taster’s palate is peat. Found primarily in Scotch whiskies coming from the Islay and Speyside regions, peat is a mossy decayed vegetation used to fire the kilns in those regions. When burned in order to distill whisky, peat imparts a smoky flavour that can persist long after tasting.

“I hit the peatier ones later in the evening — they tend to linger on your palate,” de Kergommeaux says. He also recommends adding a couple drops of water before tasting so that you can experience the flavours without the effect of excessive alcohol — which is especially important when sampling cask-strength whiskies that can land in your glass at 60 per cent alcohol or higher.

Tickets for the eighth annual Winnipeg Whisky Festival start at $219 plus taxes and fees and include a souvenir Glencairn glass and a taxi voucher to get home, as well as all samples and access to the buffet stations. VIP tickets start at $299 and include access to the tasting room at 6:30 p.m. and optional masterclass seminars.

Proceeds from the festival are in support of the Manitoba Sports Hall of Fame. For tickets and a complete list of the spirits being poured, visit winnipegwhiskyfestival.com.

ben.sigurdson@freepress.mb.ca

Twitter: @bensigurdson