New tastes, taps and spirits for the drinks geek in all of us
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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 05/03/2022 (1673 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.
The craft drinks scene in Manitoba continues to grow and evolve, with plenty of developments that should have drinks geeks thirsty for new flavours…
Speaking of geeks, Full Geek Brew Lab, the project of James Mont and Cory Bartell, has set up their tanks at Stone Angel Brewing Co. at 1875 Pembina Hwy. Their first canned product, the Elysium pale ale, is now available from Stone Angel’s taproom as well as the Quality Inns Craft Beer Market at 635 Pembina Hwy. Full tasting notes on this release to come, but having sampled a test batch I can attest this is a solid, proper pale.
According to Full Geek’s website (fullgeekbrewlab.com), the next beer slated for release is the Helios hazy IPA.
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In West Broadway, the vacancy at 110 Sherbrook St. because of the departure of Stella’s Bakery looks to have been provisionally filled, with Good Neighbour Brewing Co. having provisionally found a spot to set up their tanks and get brewing.
A Feb. 28 City Centre community committee report recommends 110 Sherbrook St. be approved for conditional use as a brewery based on an application by the Good Neighbour folks, with around 1,900 square feet allocated for brewing purposes and around 400 square feet for a tasting room. It also happens to be next door to One Sixteen, where they’re currently pouring pints in their new taproom along with food being whipped up by Keegan Misanchuk and Mike Robins of Two Hands.
If it goes ahead it will be the first area brewery in the current craft beer boom. In 2018, Kilter Brewing Co.’s plans to open their facility at 80 Sherbrook St. fell through, which saw them eventually land at their current digs on Rue Deschambault in St. Boniface.
Other Winnipeg brewery developments: plenty of progress is being made by Devil May Care on their Fort St. brewery, and Low Life Barrel House on their brewery and tap room on Daly St. N. Don’t be surprised if both open their doors this spring.
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Beyond the city limits, Grand Vieux Liquor Co. appears to be inching closer to whipping up some spirits about a four-hour drive northwest of Winnipeg.
Recent Facebook posts have chronicled the building of their distillery in the town of Grandview — roughly halfway between Dauphin and Roblin — and their manufacturing license was approved as of Feb. 22.
Their website (gvlc.ca) is just a landing page for now, but check out facebook.com/gvliquor for construction photos.
uncorked@mts.net
Twitter: @bensigurdson
Beers of the week
Stone Angel Brewing Co. 2022 Highlander Wee Heavy (Winnipeg – $4.99/473ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts, select beer vendors)
Released every year around Burns night in late January, this Scottish-inspired strong beer is medium caramel in colour and slightly hazy, with an off-white head. Aromatically the big malty push is front and centre, with secondary caramel and dried fruit notes showing well and a hint of balsamic. On the medium-bodied palate the raisin/dried fruit and ultra-malty notes lead the charge, with an almost sweet-and-sour vibe happening between a resinous balsamic note and the caramel component. The nine per cent alcohol is surprisingly unobtrusive; adventurous palates will be rewarded. 3/5
Dastardly Villain Dark Matter Machine Black Ale (Winnipeg – $3.90/473ml can, Torque, Liquor Marts, beer vendors)
Described as a fusion of Irish dry and North American stouts in style, the Dark Matter is indeed deep black in colour with a beige head. Roasted malt and chocolate-covered coffee bean aromas offer promise, with almost a hint of smoke underneath. There’s just a hint of sweetness on this full-bodied brew that works well with the chocolate and roasted malt flavours, while the espresso component is amped up by the bitterness of the hops before the modest 5.2 per cent finish. A fine third release from Dastardly Villain, currently brewing at Torque. 4/5
Half Pints Brewing Co. Pretzel Day Chocolate Toffee Pretzel Porter (Winnipeg – $4.95/473ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors)
Billed as “the beer with built-in snacks,” this cola-coloured porter features the addition of crushed pretzels, cocoa and toffee bits. Aromatically it’s quite intriguing, with a cocoa powder note that gives way to roasted malt, toffee and Mars bar-like components. It’s full-bodied, with slightly less carbonation than others here and with the only modest bitterness coming with the cocoa/chocolate note. There’s a hint of sweetness bolstered by the toffee, a hit of salt from the pretzels and a modest six per cent alcohol. Chocolate lovers take note. 3/5
Sookram’s Brewing Co. Pure Imagination Porter (Winnipeg – $4.89/473ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors)
Deep caramel brown in colour, this porter was inspired by pancake toppings, says the can, with oats, maple, chocolate, hazelnut, salt, vanilla and blueberries added here. Maybe it’s the power of suggestion, but somehow it does smell like pancakes, with the oat and maple notes most prominent and secondary blueberry compote and vanilla notes. On the rich, full-bodied and medium-sweet palate the maple, chocolate and vanilla notes stand out, with underlying oaty, malty flavours and a subtle blueberry jam note that all come before the punchy seven per cent alcohol. For the sweet tooth. 3.5/5
Devil May Care Brewing Co. Elak Wood-Aged Baltic Porter (Winnipeg – $5.80/473ml can, Torque, Liquor Marts and beer vendors)
Deep cola brown in colour with a rich, beige head, the vanilla notes on the nose (presumably from the wood) work well with the deep dried fruit and roasted malt component that comes through. It’s medium-plus bodied — not as rich as the other porters or stout here — with dried fruit, resin and vanilla notes working nicely with the maltier aspect and a hint of orange peel. The whopping 9.4 per cent alcohol is noticeable in a good way, given the style, bringing a touch of warmth on the finish. A slow sipper for the last of our wintry nights. Brewed at Torque, for now. 4/5
Barn Hammer Brewing Co. Imperial Stout (Winnipeg – $10/650ml bottle, brewery)
This imperial stout is deep black in colour, with a dark brown head that persists. Deep roasted malt, milk chocolate, cherry, vanilla bean and hints of coffee are quite complex and enticing aromatically. It’s rich, full-bodied and medium-sweet, with slightly softer effervescence that lets the dark malt, chocolate and vanilla components do their thing, with that compelling cherry note hanging around before the dangerously well-integrated (but still just a bit hot) nine per cent alcohol. For sharing and slow sipping now, or put it away until next winter. 5/5
Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press‘s literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.
In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press’s editing team before being posted online or published in print. It’s part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.
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