Homegrown grub Resto turns to the Leaf for freshest ingredients

The term “eat local” has taken on a whole new meaning at Gather Craft Kitchen and Bar, where the journey from plot to plate is measured in footsteps rather than miles.

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The term “eat local” has taken on a whole new meaning at Gather Craft Kitchen and Bar, where the journey from plot to plate is measured in footsteps rather than miles.

Head chef Mike Licharson has expanded the restaurant’s focus on local sourcing by incorporating fruit and vegetables grown in The Leaf’s biomes and outdoor kitchen garden into his menu.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS 	 
Chef Mike Licharson
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Chef Mike Licharson

Bananas from the tropical biomes star in his banana-bread French toast and accompanying banana compote. Leeks, braised slowly and paired with Manitoba-grown beluga lentils, and Swiss chard — which takes the place of grape leaves in Licharson’s play on classic meze dolmades, a nod to the chef’s Greek-Ukrainian-Irish heritage — are both grown in the outdoor kitchen garden.

The park’s produce complements the restaurant’s other locally sourced ingredients, Licharson says.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS
                                Banana bread French toast at Gather restaurant.
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Banana bread French toast at Gather restaurant.

Butter is from the Notre Dame Creamery. Labneh comes from Chaeban and pure honey is sourced from the John Russell Honey Company.

This hyper-local approach carries through to the bar.

While they’re not yet brewing their own beer — there are plans afoot for the hops currently growing in the kitchen garden — drinks created by restaurant manager Eyoel (who only uses one name) feature allspice, Cuban oregano and rosemary from the herb garden. And the limited-run summer Garden Cocktail, made with pineapple, lime, soda and house-infused jackfruit rum, features jackfruit from The Leaf.

RUTH BONNEVILLE / FREE PRESS 
Chef Mike Licharson and garden lead Ali Kriellaars choose squash blossoms for making dishes at The Leaf.
RUTH BONNEVILLE / FREE PRESS

Chef Mike Licharson and garden lead Ali Kriellaars choose squash blossoms for making dishes at The Leaf.

Licharson looks further afield while still remaining within the borders of the country for ingredients he is unable to source within the region.

“I’ve always been of the opinion that you should get the best from as close to you as you can and do it justice,” Licharson says. “Ingredients that champion Canadian farmers, ranchers and fishermen, and try to do as little to it as you can.”

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS
                                Dolmades at Gather.
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Dolmades at Gather.

The seasons also dictate a lot of what’s on his menu, as does his desire for the kitchen to generate as little food waste as possible.

“If you are going to be a chef, you can’t just be throwing stuff out; food is wildly expensive to begin with.”

“If you are going to be a chef, you can’t just be throwing stuff out — food is wildly expensive to begin with,” he says, pointing out that all herbs, ginger and green trimmings are lacto-fermented and dehydrated, before being blitzed into a powder that is used as a seasoning.

“I’ve always been passionate about trying to preserve as much as I can, so that what we can’t utilize now, while it’s fresh, we can still have it here for later on.”

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS
                                Braised leeks and Manitoba beluga lentils
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Braised leeks and Manitoba beluga lentils

He’s currently looking forward to harvesting lettuce, different herbs, zucchini, patty-pan squash, raspberries, saskatoon berries, beans, peas, walking onions, edible blooms and beetroot, all of which are growing strong in the kitchen garden.

And while the new chef, who replaced previous head chef Mike de Groot earlier this year, has revamped the restaurant menu, he’s quick to assure everyone that Gather’s much-loved roasted carrots will remain for the foreseeable future.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS
                                Ingredients sourced from Assiniboine Park and The Leaf biomes are being used at their restaurant, Gather.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Ingredients sourced from Assiniboine Park and The Leaf biomes are being used at their restaurant, Gather.

“People love those carrots and it’s nice to have a vegetable-forward signature,” he says. “And later this month in the garden, we’re going have heaps of carrots, the very nice, pretty, multicoloured heritage carrots, which will be a nice sub to make to the dish.”

av.kitching@winnipegfreepress.com

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS
Roasted carrots are a popular item at Gather.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Roasted carrots are a popular item at Gather.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS 	 
Tuna crudo at Gather
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Tuna crudo at Gather
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS
                                Berry rum punch, which uses allspice syrup made from a tree in The Leaf, at Gather restaurant.
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Berry rum punch, which uses allspice syrup made from a tree in The Leaf, at Gather restaurant.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS 	 
Red veining Indian mallow flower, which is edible, is also being used in the Gather restaurant.

MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS

Red veining Indian mallow flower, which is edible, is also being used in the Gather restaurant.
RUTH BONNEVILLE / FREE PRESS 
                                Chef Mike Licharson shows off a bouquet of chard and bountiful vegetables for making dishes at Gather using produce from the Leaf.

RUTH BONNEVILLE / FREE PRESS

Chef Mike Licharson shows off a bouquet of chard and bountiful vegetables for making dishes at Gather using produce from the Leaf.

RUTH BONNEVILLE / FREE PRESS 
Orange Swiss chard at The Leaf.
RUTH BONNEVILLE / FREE PRESS

Orange Swiss chard at The Leaf.
AV Kitching

AV Kitching
Reporter

AV Kitching is an arts and life writer at the Free Press. She has been a journalist for more than two decades and has worked across three continents writing about people, travel, food, and fashion. Read more about AV.

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