Go big and go home with these boxed wines

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This article was published 29/01/2022 (1686 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Whether you’re trying to avoid the deep freeze, are hesitant to do too much in-person shopping or are simply looking to save a few bucks after a pricey holiday season, larger-format wines are convenient and cost-effective.

But not all big bottles and bag-in-box options are created equal, and many are just plain boring — or worse. The boxed wines featured in the “bottled and blended in Canada” section of your favourite shop, for example, tend to be particularly uninspired. They’re typically made from a blend of domestic and international juice, the latter shipped here from South America or California or elsewhere in massive tanks and assembled in Canada before making their way to your favourite store. And while they tend to be good values (and some even taste not too bad), they’re not particularly inspiring, and tarnish the reputation of our producers who make wines from 100 per cent Canadian grapes.

With that in mind, I set out to figure out what else is available in larger-quantity formats but which hopefully wouldn’t sacrifice quality, with somewhat mixed results…

The Black Box line of wines are sourced from a variety of countries based on the grape variety in the box — Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc from Chile, Malbec from Argentina and so on. From the Golden State comes the Black Box 2020 Pinot Grigio (California, U.S. — $40.99/3L box, Liquor Marts and beyond), which is pale straw in colour and offers pear and peach notes front and centre aromatically, with some secondary floral and spiced red apple notes that are appealing. On the light-plus bodied, almost-off-dry palate the simple apple and pear flavours dominate, with just a splash of lemon and spice before the short finish. It’s decent but a bit uninspired; if you want to try it for yourself before loading up, they also offer the same wine in a 500ml juice box-type container for $8.99. ★★1/2 out of five 

The sporadic availability of New Zealand wines in the province — a combination of a tough 2021 vintage and supply-chain issues — makes the Nau Mai 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand — $29.99/1.5L pouch, Liquor Marts and beyond) a decent option to help tide you over until your favourite returns. The wine in this spigoted pouch is pale straw in colour and aromatically brings mineral, lime, grapefruit, gooseberry and passion-fruit notes to the table. On the dry, light-bodied palate there’s a hint of an herbal component that works fairly well with the green apple, lime, gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, the medium acidity adds zip and the finish is crisp and clean. A touch less intense than many other New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, but a solid go-to white to keep in your fridge for sipping and cooking. ★★★

The well-priced Folonari 2020 Valpolicella (Veneto, Italy — $45.99/3L box, Liquor Marts and beyond) is an Italian red made from the traditional red grape varieties Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara; it’s pale cherry in colour, and brings violet, raspberry, tart cherry, cranberry and subtle leather aromas. It’s dry and medium-bodied, with those red fruit notes delivered with moderate acidity, a slight herbal/peppery note, light tannins and a relatively modest finish. Drink this very serviceable red with medium-sharp cheeses, tomato-based pastas or pizza. It’s also available in a 750ml bottle for $14.99, but the three-litre box is on sale for $41.99 until the end of January. ★★★

There are plenty of solid values from Chile in larger-format bottles and bag-in-box packaging, among them the Santa Carolina 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot (Central Valley, Chile – around $18/1.5L bottle, private wine stores). Cassis, plum, earth and mocha notes are most prominent on the nose of this Chilean red blend, with a dash of raspberry in there for good measure. On the dry, medium-plus bodied palate there’s an herbal/tomato leaf note that joins the party with the cassis and raspberry flavours, and an underlying peppery, earthy touch that works well. Tannins are light and there’s some decent acidity that helps bring length, while the 12.5 per cent alcohol is modest and keeps things approachable. ★★★

You’d be mistaken to think the Periquita 2019 Reserva (Setubal, Portugal — $44.99/3L box, Liquor Marts and beyond) would be, like many other Portuguese red blends, a rustic, character-driven red. Combining the native Castelão, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Francesa Portuguese grapes, the Periquita offers plum, vanilla, blueberry jam, violet and spice notes on the nose. It’s medium-plus bodied, slightly sweet and quite plush, delivering ripe plum and blueberry jam flavours, a hit of vanilla and spice before very modest tannins. A bit disappointing based on what is normally expected from Portugal, but will appease fans of the slightly sweet California red blends; also available in 750ml bottles for $16.99. ★★

The best of this bunch of large-format wines is the Wolf Blass 2020 Red Label Shiraz Cabernet (South Eastern Australia — $41.99/3L box, Liquor Marts and beyond). This Shiraz-driven red blend delivers ripe cherry, iron and leather notes as well as cassis and a dash of eucalyptus. While this medium-plus bodied red is quite jammy, unlike the Periquita it’s fermented dry, and the red berry, cassis and cherry flavours bring intensity without that sweetness. Modest tannins add some grip, and there’s a bit of heat on the finish thanks to the 14.5 per cent alcohol. Also available in 750ml bottles for $13.99. ★★★1/2

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