These are three of the GTA’s best biryani spots

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This article was published 12/03/2022 (1664 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

The word biryani is said to have roots in ancient Persian cooking, where birian birinj means fried rice.

In food writer Meera Sodha’s acclaimed cookbook, “Made In India,” she proclaims “biryani is the maharaja of dishes and is believed to have been invited in the kitchen of Mughal emperors.”

Biryani is having a moment in the GTA right now. In the past four years we have seen a range of new regional-style Indian and Pakistani restaurants open up with their own style of the fried rice.

The layered rice dish comes in many variations, but the composition is simple.

A base, like sofrito is created, sometimes with tomatoes, onions and an assortment of spices. It can then be cooked with protein to create a gravy.

A generous amount of parboiled rice is then layered on.

Further toppings can include saffron water, butter, herbs. The pot is then sealed tight, traditionally dough is used to trap the steam from escaping. The pot is then cooked over embers, the lid is only removed when the dish is done.

The process as you can imagine is slightly different in restaurant kitchens, but the concept is the same.

Rice, protein, vegetables and spices are cooked in a pressured environment to infuse each grain to the fullest.

Here are three notable places doing biryani in the GTA:

Adrak Restaurant, 15 Wertheim Ct., Richmond Hill

My first visit to Adrak seven years ago was a revelation.

The prawn biryani arrived at the table in a small clay pot with the dough dome intact.

“We prefer to present it tableside because of the aromatics,” said sous chef Gokul Singh.

When the dome is cut open, steam billows out into the dining room, and spices follow in waves. There’s jeera, cardamom at first, followed by mace and cinnamon.

“During dinner service, the aroma is a repeating element throughout the room,” said Singh, who cooks each clay pot to order.

Rice is prepared ahead of time, it’s then sealed with the protein, covered with dough and cooked in a tandoor-like oven for just over a minute.

The protein is tender enough to succumb to the back of your spoon, and the spices are bold and bright.

Ask for the roasted eggplant raita — it makes an excellent sauce.

Dindigul Thalappakatti Restaurant, 3850 Finch Ave. E., Scarborough

At this modest takeout counter in Scarborough, Suresh Joseph’s focus is a homage to a style of biryani that originated at the Thalappakatti Biriyani Hotel in Dindigul in the 1950s.

“The recipe hasn’t changed, and I think this is a very different type of biryani than what you’re used to,” Joseph said.

While the recipe is a guarded secret, the process is the same. A sofrito is prepared, rice and protein are added in the pot, and it’s sealed with dough.

“We roast and grind our own spices,” Joseph said.

The chicken biryani is served with both chicken cooked with the rice and a tandoor-roasted chicken leg on the side for “contrasting textures” and a healthy dollop of mixed raita to dip.

Hyderabadi Hut, 1587 Ellesmere Rd, Scarborough

In the past few years we have seen a number of Hyderabadi-style restaurants open in Toronto, accommodating a growing population of skilled migrant workers and exchange students from the Indian city.

While Hyderabadi Hut has an expansive menu, according to the owner and guests, the biryanis are the standout items.

Biryanis here have distinct flavour combinations and ingredients that you don’t normally encounter.

The ulava charu biryani, for example, uses a thick lentil soup of horse gram and spices for the base, which gives the dish a very earthy and hearty taste.

Another unique style is the avakai biryani where mango pickle is used as an ingredient instead of a condiment, when cooking the rice. This brings a spicy and sour dance while giving the rice a slightly slick coating.

Also, the gongura biryani, where chicken (or lamb, shrimp) is cooked with gongura (sorrel leaves), which gives the biryani a distinct sour taste, a key characteristic of cooking from the Andhra Pradesh state.

Suresh Doss is a Toronto-based food writer and food tour guide. He is a freelance contributor to the Star. Reach him via email: suresh.doss@gmail.com