Brews for both seasons

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 08/04/2023 (1155 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

This is the time of year when beer drinkers typically shift their sipping habits from heartier, heavier brews to lighter, more refreshing lagers and ales.

But at the time of writing this, the snow is falling in heaps, the wind is reducing visibility and the roads are in less-than-ideal condition. And yet by the time you read this we’re supposed to be on the cusp of (positive) double-digit temps, with all manner of melting happening.

With this uncertainty in mind, here are three easygoing local brews for those thinking spring, and a trio of deeper, more complex beers for winter warriors…

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First up is the Little Brown Jug Generic! Lager (Winnipeg — $19.99/8x473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors), which seems to be occupying a similar category to the Half Pints Double Standard as an approachable, easygoing lager for those who’ve not dabbled much in the way of craft beer. It’s pale straw and clear in appearance, with fresh malt and yeast notes, hints of apple and floral aromas and a light sprinkling of corn in there as well. It’s light-bodied, crisp and clean, with simple and tasty malty notes front and centre on the dry palate, subtle yeast and apple notes, no bitterness to speak of and a modest 4.5 per cent alcohol to finish things off. A crushable lager to enjoy after shoveling snow (or, eventually, cutting the grass). Also available in single cans for around $3 from the brewery and beer vendors. 3/5

The Lake of the Woods Brewing Co. Avalon Elderflower Rice Lager (Winnipeg — $4.09/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) is a rice-based lager created in collaboration with chef Mandel Hitzer for Raw:Almond, the annual outdoor dining experience on the frozen river at The Forks that took place in January and February. It’s pale straw in colour and clear, with fresh floral, yeast, rice and lemon zest aromas that are lively and lovely. On the dry, light-bodied palate it’s more of the same, with a splash of acidity and nice focus to the fresh flavours, with the crisp, clean and not-at-all bitter components making way for the 4.5 per cent alcohol. It’s a spring-friendly, surprisingly complex but lighter-bodied brew sure to please a range of palates. 4/5

One of Manitoba’s newest breweries is based out of Brandon, and the Section 6 Brewing Co. Pub English Ale (Brandon — $2.80/355ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, breweries) is copper in colour and clear, offering loads of roasted malt, caramel, dried fruit and biscuit notes on the nose. It’s medium-bodied and mainly dry, with the caramel and malt notes nicely making way for that grainy, biscuit component, with low bitterness and a modest 4.2 per cent alcohol finishing things off. Would be ideal on tap at a pub with some fish and chips; do your best to replicate the experience at home, or enjoy it on its own. 4/5

Now, for some heavier brews… the Barn Hammer Veil Chai Milk Stout (Winnipeg — $4.75/473ml can, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) features (as the name suggests) the inclusion of black tea, spices and milk sugar. It’s deep cola brown visually, with a rich beige head, and aromatically the baking spices — think clove, cardamom and a hint of cinnamon — jump right out of the glass, bringing along roasted malt, black tea and vanilla notes. It’s a chewy, modestly sweet and full-bodied stout, with the prominent spices bringing both warmth and a sharpness, the lactose offering a creamy component and the black tea and roasted malt flavours offering some bite along with the vibrant carbonation — this ain’t no barely-bubbly Guinness. There’s loads of flavour here without getting boozy — the alcohol is a modest 4.5 per cent. 3.5/5

For something completely different, the Low Life Barrel House Kismet Red Grape Ale (Winnipeg — $7.95/500ml bottle, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) is a saison re-fermented along with second-use red Marquette grapes from Ontario (after they’re initially gently pressed to make wine at Low Life). Pale plum in colour and hazy, there’s a notable cherry aroma that comes with red licorice, herbal and subtle spice notes on the nose. It’s light-plus bodied and dry, with plenty of red fruit and secondary spice notes working well with the underlying bread dough and malt components, medium acidity and just a hint of tannin from the grape skins before the medium-length finish (it’s 5.8 per cent alcohol). Adventurous palates will be rewarded; drink now on its own or well-chilled with burgers. 3.5/5

The One Great City Friar’s Fortune Barrel-Aged Doppelbock (Winnipeg — $8.99/500ml bottle, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) is aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels before bottling; visually it’s deep chestnut brown in colour, while aromatically it brings brown sugar, vanilla, dried red berries and plums which are quite complex. It’s a rich, medium-bodied and medium-sweet beer, with delicious raisin, brown sugar, vanilla and plum flavours underlying roasted malt notes that tie things together and a long, satisfying finish (it’s a whopping 9.25 per cent alcohol). Curl up near a fire and shake off the last of winter’s chill with this robust brew. 4.5/5

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