Local citrus beer offerings must mean summer nears

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 29/04/2023 (1255 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Another month, another compelling collection of new local brews hitting the shelves of tap rooms, beer vendors and Liquor Marts throughout Winnipeg and beyond…

One of the first beers brewed at its new Sherbrook Street brewery, the Good Neighbour Brewing Co. Tangerine Wheat ($4.25/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) is pale gold in colour and slightly hazy, bringing ripe orange and wheat notes on the nose as well as underlying malt and spice notes.

It’s mainly dry and light-bodied, with a subtle creamy texture fleshing out the tangerine and grain notes, low bitterness, the spice component sticking around throughout and a crisp, clean finish (it’s five per cent alcohol). Crushable but with some complexity — very well done. 4.5/5

The Nonsuch Brewing Co. Mango Farmhouse Ale ($4.80/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) offers much of the same appearance-wise, while aromatically delivering concentrated tropical fruit notes, along with some lemon candy and earthy, funky spice, courtesy of the inclusion of brettanomyces yeast.

It’s dry and light-plus-bodied, with loads of mango flavours coming with tart gooseberry and lemon drop notes, low bitterness and a slightly salty note on the medium-length finish (it’s 6.2 per cent alcohol). Robust but with good freshness. 4/5

The One Great City Brewing Co. Lola Hibiscus Cherry Pale Ale ($4.15/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors and coming soon to Liquor Marts) is brewed in collaboration with Serbesa Co., which may have a connection to Bahay Kubo, the Filipino eatery/tiki bar at 48 Albert St. Infused with (you guessed it) hibiscus as well as cherry purée, it’s bright reddish-copper in colour and delivers tart cherry, floral and malt aromas.

It’s light-bodied and quite dry, with slightly bitter cherry-skin notes, as well as subtle malt flavours before a relatively short finish at five per cent alcohol. The cherry flavours could stand to be fleshed out a touch, perhaps with just the slightest bit of sweetness, to counter the bitter component. 3/5

The Sookram’s Brewing Co. Toros Amber Ale ($4.29/473ml cans, brewery, Liquor Marts, beer vendors) was brewed for International Women’s Day by the women of the brewery, and features the inclusion of Manitoba-grown Willamette hops. It’s deep gold in colour and clear, and aromatically brings lovely biscuit, bread dough and fresh malt with underlying citrus rind and herbal/grassy notes.

Robust and medium-bodied, the Toros brings the malty-biscuit flavours front and centre, supported by modest grassy hops, a hint of caramel and the most subtle bit of citrus rind before the five per cent finish. Delicious — and a portion of the proceeds go to the North End Women’s Centre. 4/5

Brewed at Torque’s King Edward Street facility, the Namesake Brewing Sloth Fuel Hazy Pale Ale ($4.99/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors and coming soon to Liquor Marts) is medium gold in colour and slightly hazy, with bright grassy, citrus and herbal notes from Amarillo, Citra and El Dorado hops coming with more subtle malty notes.

It’s dry and light-plus-bodied, with those citrus-laden hoppy notes dominating on the palate, while tropical fruit and malt flavours bring up the rear before a crisp, clean 5.5 per cent finish. Not as punchy as an IPA, but will please fans of the style. 3.5/5

Last but definitely not least is the Oxus Brewing Company Vostok: Singularity Juicy Double IPA ($4.60/473ml cans, brewery, beer vendors), the latest iteration of its space-themed beer, which it has brewed a couple of times in the past.

Pale wheat-gold in colour and deeply hazy, this beast is brewed with loads of El Dorado, Amarillo and Nectaron hops, which impart floral, resinous, grassy and gooseberry notes that show well with the fresh citrus and malt aromas. It’s mainly dry, medium-bodied and chewy, with deep tropical fruit and malt notes showing well and with a heaping helping of hops that brings citrus, resinous and herbal flavours, all of which linger for a long time on the slightly peppery, robust finish (it’s 7.5 per cent alcohol). A big, brash beauty. 4.5/5

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